NEED HELP WITH RO/DI SYSTEM

[griss]

Please be patient as I'm trying to figure this out So the flush valve (green arrow) is always open it looks like. Should that valve only be open when I am flushing the membrane then closed and the waste water valve (yellow arrow) be open when I am making water?

No need to ask for patience, this stuff can be confusing and we're here to help each other. I've got over 30 years messing with RODI so, I've learned a lot...mostly from people on here over the years. So, when I can return the favor and help someone out, I'm happy to do so.

Yes, the flush valve (green arrow) should only be open when flushing the membrane. Having it open all the time would likely answer why your pressure drops.

So, in summary, flush valve (green arrow) open ONLY when flushing the membrane. Then close it when you're ready to produce water.

The other valve (yellow arrow below) can be left open all the time, IMO.

Try that and let us know how that works.

 

[dogstsx]

THANK YOU!!!! I've been in this hobby on and off for about 15 years. My old system was much different than this one, thus my confusion. It's always nice to get help along with give good advise to help others. Pay it forward. Again, I appreciate the time everyone took to help me out. As soon as I get home I'll adjust the valves and give the results.

 

[griss]

THANK YOU!!!! I've been in this hobby on and off for about 15 years. My old system was much different than this one, thus my confusion. It's always nice to get help along with give good advise to help others. Pay it forward. Again, I appreciate the time everyone took to help me out. As soon as I get home I'll adjust the valves and give the results.

Yes, please update us with results. Hopefully, we figured it out.

Now, not to throw a wrench in the gears, but when you change out your carbon block, you'll need a way to flush that so the fines from the carbon don't clog up your RO membrane. From AquaticLife's website, it looks like they would have you remove the membrane and DI to flush the carbon. I can help you to put in a bypass to flush the carbon cartridge without removing the membrane and DI But, let's first make sure we've remedied the system shutting off and low pressure.

 

[dogstsx]

Yes, please update us with results. Hopefully, we figured it out.

Now, not to throw a wrench in the gears, but when you change out your carbon block, you'll need a way to flush that so the fines from the carbon don't clog up your RO membrane. From AquaticLife's website, it looks like they would have you remove the membrane and DI to flush the carbon. I can help you to put in a bypass to flush the carbon cartridge without removing the membrane and DI But, let's first make sure we've remedied the system shutting off and low pressure.

AWESOME, THANK YOU.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

In the picture above, where the hand is holding the membrane housing, the round object under the thumb is the Auto Shut Off Valve.
It works on back pressure to shut off the water when your water container is full & shuts off the float valve.
I still say making the lines color specific will help you down the road when you have to do filter changes or work on the unit.
IF, & I say IF, that is your set up I would move the valve with the green arrow to somewhere with easy access if needed.
The valve on the drain valve -- I close mine AFTER my container is full.
I do this to keep some water in the system, so it does not drain completely drying it out. I usually have 10-20 pounds of pressure on my gauge.

 

[griss]

In the picture above, where the hand is holding the membrane housing, the round object under the thumb is the Auto Shut Off Valve.
It works on back pressure to shut off the water when your water container is full & shuts off the float valve.
I still say making the lines color specific will help you down the road when you have to do filter changes or work on the unit.
IF, & I say IF, that is your set up I would move the valve with the green arrow to somewhere with easy access if needed.
The valve on the drain valve -- I close mine AFTER my container is full.
I do this to keep some water in the system, so it does not drain completely drying it out. I usually have 10-20 pounds of pressure on my gauge.

@dogstsx what Vinny is mentioning about the color coding of the tubing is, IMO, pretty helpful. In general, most of us who built or modified systems use a color coding. Here are some common examples:

Black or White Tubing - Feed water (from your faucet to the RODI system).
Blue Tubing - For product/filtered water.
Red, Orange or Yellow Tubing - For waste water.

I think what Vinny is trying to get at is your waste line is blue tubing and that threw some of us off at first thinking that was your product water.

Not criticizing, just trying to help out.

 

[kharmaguru]

Please be patient as I'm trying to figure this out So the flush valve (green arrow) is always open it looks like. Should that valve only be open when I am flushing the membrane then closed and the waste water valve (yellow arrow) be open when I am making water?

Yes green arrow valve needs to be closed (except when flushing), yellow arrow valve shouldn't even be there.

 

[Dr. Reef]

I didnt read through the entire thread but just to point 1 thing out.
Booster pump goes before the membrane and after the sediment and carbon blocks etc.
Point of the booster pump is to push the max amount of water through the membrane at specific psi normally 65-80 depending on the system and number of membranes etc.
If you were to put the booster as your first thing from tap it will create so much pressure your sediment or carbon block housing will break one day.

So the path shouuld be:
1. Water Source
2. Sediment Filter
3. Carbon filter
4. Booster Pump
5. RO Membrane
6. DI

 

[dogstsx]

I got home late last night and switched the flush valve to close after I ran the system for about 10 minutes. I left the drain valve open the entire time. I did notice once I closed the flush valve (the one on top) the pressure did go back up and water was being made. After about 20 minutes I went back to check on the water and sure enough, the system was working! FINALLY!!! Woke up this morning with a full 75 gals of clean water system shut off as it should and everything seems to be working as designed. *sign of relief*. Thanks again for all the help from everyone helping me to figure this out. Hopefully I can return the favor soon.

 

[griss]

I got home late last night and switched the flush valve to close after I ran the system for about 10 minutes. I left the drain valve open the entire time. I did notice once I closed the flush valve (the one on top) the pressure did go back up and water was being made. After about 20 minutes I went back to check on the water and sure enough, the system was working! FINALLY!!! Woke up this morning with a full 75 gals of clean water system shut off as it should and everything seems to be working as designed. *sign of relief*. Thanks again for all the help from everyone helping me to figure this out. Hopefully I can return the favor soon.

Awesome, glad we were able to get it figured out.

 

[Vinny Kreyling]

 

[Raptor72]

Man, after reading all of this, I think I’ve had mine set up all wrong for several years! I’ll have to start my own thread to get it settled out.

 

[griss]

Man, after reading all of this, I think I’ve had mine set up all wrong for several years! I’ll have to start my own thread to get it settled out.

When you start the thread, ping me with a link via PM and I'll respond as quickly as possible.

 

[dogstsx]

Couple of months in and the system is working flawlessly. Thank again guys!!

 

[griss]

Couple of months in and the system is working flawlessly. Thank again guys!!

Awesome, glad to hear.