Coral Bleaching?
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Spyderturbo007
New member
Still bleached. The Stylophora looks like it's bleaching on the top only. The underside where it doesn't get the same light seems to have more color than the top.
The Hammer still looks like crap too. I just don't understand what I'm doing wrong. My parameters are perfect.
What is the temperature of the tank and ph??
markalot
...
White tips of Stylophora are normal when they start to grow. Can you take an updated picture?
That was my thought but from the oringal pictures it doesn't seem like it is because of it growing but I could be wrong. New pictures would be great.
Spyderturbo007
New member
My Apex keeps the temperature between 79.7 and 80.3 degrees. The pH fluctuates between 7.88 and 8.07 depending on the time of day.
I'll take some updated pictures when I get home from work this evening.
I'll take some updated pictures when I get home from work this evening.
Spyderturbo007
New member
Here are the new pictures. Hopefully this will help, because this is driving me crazy. My tank is static until I figure out what is causing the problem. Don't want to buy any more coral until I nail down this problem.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Here is the hammer coral. Keep in mind this is right after I fed it some Mysis shrimp.
This is the Stylophora coral. It really looks like it's bleaching the most on all the surfaces directly exposed to the light. But how can 4 x 54w T5's bleach a SPS that's only 1/2 way up in the tank? The brightness of the bleached areas is severely exaggerated in this picture from the camera having issues with the blue lighting.
It looks like my tiny amount of coralline algae is starting to bleach as well.
Sorry my pictures suck, but the iPhone camera does not like the blue lighting.
Is this really an issue with a low nutrient tank?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Here is the hammer coral. Keep in mind this is right after I fed it some Mysis shrimp.
This is the Stylophora coral. It really looks like it's bleaching the most on all the surfaces directly exposed to the light. But how can 4 x 54w T5's bleach a SPS that's only 1/2 way up in the tank? The brightness of the bleached areas is severely exaggerated in this picture from the camera having issues with the blue lighting.
It looks like my tiny amount of coralline algae is starting to bleach as well.
Sorry my pictures suck, but the iPhone camera does not like the blue lighting.
Is this really an issue with a low nutrient tank?
Spyderturbo007
New member
So no one has any suggestions?
I've dropped my photo period to 9 hours of Blue lighting and 7 hours of white. I've also taken the GAC off line thinking that might help.
I would really like to get this problem resolved, but I don't know enough to diagnose the problem.
I've dropped my photo period to 9 hours of Blue lighting and 7 hours of white. I've also taken the GAC off line thinking that might help.
I would really like to get this problem resolved, but I don't know enough to diagnose the problem.
ItzJustinN
Nano-Reefin' Newbie
i would check calc and alk first
Spyderturbo007
New member
I have graphs of them on the first page.
Yesterday's testing was:
Calcium = 405ppm
Alk = 9.08Dkh
Yesterday's testing was:
Calcium = 405ppm
Alk = 9.08Dkh
What about your mag levels? I can't really see what is wrong parameter wise but one thing that does stick out to me is stability. Your water chemistry according to your graphs seems to vary more than the corals may tolerate.
Maybe someone else can shed some more like on that idea...
Spyderturbo007
New member
Oddly enough, all these issues started after I began dosing Kalk in an attempt to maintain stability. The Hammer coral was gorgeous before I tried to bring up my Alk and Calcium at the advice of this forum. Once I got the parameters in line with the recommendations I found, everything went down hill.
I also replaced a blown Blue bulb at around the same time, but I can't see that one bulb would bleach an entire tank.
Let me see if I can try and nail down a little better time frame.
8/4/12 - Brought GFO Reactor On-line
8/8/12 - Added Hammer Coral
8/22/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
9/8/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
9/24/12 - Performed 12 gallon water change
10/14/12 - Changed GFO and added Carbon and did 10 gallon water change
10/19/12 - Began Kalk Dosing of 1 1/4tsp per 5 gallons (I did this because my Alk and Calcium was dropping over time.
10/21/12 - Added Stylophora SPS Frag
10/28/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
Up to this point everything is doing great.
~11/1/12 - Replaced blown 420/460 Blue bulb
11/3/12 - Everything is bleached - This happened very quickly
11/3/12 - Took GFO offline because someone said my Phosphate of 0ppm is starving the coral. Continued to run only GAC.
11/4/12 - Dosed 5tsp CaCl2 in an attempt to bring Calcium from 360ppm to a desired target of 390ppm (Actual result was 380ppm)
11/5/12 - Dosed 6tsp CaCl2 in an attempt to bring Calcium from 380ppm to a target of 400ppm (Actual result was 405ppm)
11/11/12 - Skipped scheduled 10 gallon water change because of the advice that I was starving my coral with 0ppm Nitrate and Phosphate
11/22/12 - Dropped photo period by 2 hours.
11/24/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
12/6/12 - Took GAC reactor offline from reading that GAC may contribute to coral bleaching
12/10/12 - Still bleached
I also replaced a blown Blue bulb at around the same time, but I can't see that one bulb would bleach an entire tank.
Let me see if I can try and nail down a little better time frame.
8/4/12 - Brought GFO Reactor On-line
- Alkalinity = 10.3Dkh (Tested 8/2/12)
- Calcium = 380ppm (Tested 8/2/12)
- Phosphate = 0.16ppm (Tested 8/2/12)
- Nitrate = 0ppm (Tested 8/2/12)
8/8/12 - Added Hammer Coral
- Alkalinity = 10.42Dkh
- Calcium = 380ppm
- Phosphate = 0ppm
- Nitrate = 0ppm
8/22/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
9/8/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
9/24/12 - Performed 12 gallon water change
10/14/12 - Changed GFO and added Carbon and did 10 gallon water change
- Alkalinity = 8.98Dkh
- Calcium = 355ppm
- Phosphate = 0ppm
- Nitrate = 0ppm
10/19/12 - Began Kalk Dosing of 1 1/4tsp per 5 gallons (I did this because my Alk and Calcium was dropping over time.
10/21/12 - Added Stylophora SPS Frag
- Alkalinity = 9.18Dkh
- Calcium = 360ppm
- Phosphate = 0ppm
- Nitrate = 0ppm
10/28/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
Up to this point everything is doing great.
~11/1/12 - Replaced blown 420/460 Blue bulb
11/3/12 - Everything is bleached - This happened very quickly
- Alkalinity = 9.46Dkh
- Calcium = 360ppm
- Phosphate = 0ppm
- Nitrate = 0ppm
11/3/12 - Took GFO offline because someone said my Phosphate of 0ppm is starving the coral. Continued to run only GAC.
11/4/12 - Dosed 5tsp CaCl2 in an attempt to bring Calcium from 360ppm to a desired target of 390ppm (Actual result was 380ppm)
11/5/12 - Dosed 6tsp CaCl2 in an attempt to bring Calcium from 380ppm to a target of 400ppm (Actual result was 405ppm)
11/11/12 - Skipped scheduled 10 gallon water change because of the advice that I was starving my coral with 0ppm Nitrate and Phosphate
11/22/12 - Dropped photo period by 2 hours.
11/24/12 - Performed 10 gallon water change
12/6/12 - Took GAC reactor offline from reading that GAC may contribute to coral bleaching
12/10/12 - Still bleached
Spyderturbo007
New member
I'm guessing I'm on my own with this one? 
Ngoodermuth
New member
I briefly tried ZeoVit with my 55g, which if you are not familiar it creates an ultra low nutrient system and then supplements with various vitamins and additives. Some people swear by it, I wasn't a fan. But, I did have some coral bleaching as a result. Also, I replaced my bulbs 1 at a time, every 3 months but I did usually shorten the photo period for a few days after the change.
Both of these things (ULN and lighting changes) can cause bleaching... which is possibly the case since your other parameters are not perfectly stable but in normal range. However, after taking the ZeoVit offline and increasing nutrient levels... it still took a good amount of time for everything to color back up.
I would suggest keeping on your current plan, keep on top of your param. testing, and just give everything a chance to stabilize. From the photos, it does not appear to me that either coral is near death. And keep feeding that hammer, it will help.
Oh and I wouldn't worry too much about skipping water changes if you are feeding more and took the other things offline. Good salt mix has trace elements that most of us don't test for but corals really like and/or need. I have always tried to stick to weekly changes.
Both of these things (ULN and lighting changes) can cause bleaching... which is possibly the case since your other parameters are not perfectly stable but in normal range. However, after taking the ZeoVit offline and increasing nutrient levels... it still took a good amount of time for everything to color back up.
I would suggest keeping on your current plan, keep on top of your param. testing, and just give everything a chance to stabilize. From the photos, it does not appear to me that either coral is near death. And keep feeding that hammer, it will help.
Oh and I wouldn't worry too much about skipping water changes if you are feeding more and took the other things offline. Good salt mix has trace elements that most of us don't test for but corals really like and/or need. I have always tried to stick to weekly changes.
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danil
New member
+1. I would try to make water a bit dirtier just to the level you can detect nitrate and phosphate with you test kit and keep it stable. Try feed corals with oyster feast one two times per week. Another solution - get more fish in your tank
.ps. I forget to mentioned that for low nutrient system (LNS) your Alk is high. Not sure why but level considering normal in 'classic' can bleach/burn/RTN corals in LNS systems. For such system it's recommended to keep it around NSW level. GL!
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Sometimes bleaching coralline algae can come from too much light which can also cause bleaching of corals. If this is the case, moving the coral down until it gets acclimated is the answer.
Kalk, on the other hand, also has effects on lowering phosphates. If you were testing 0.0 PO4 before the kalk with your hannah meter, and you are still getting 0.0 PO4 (and you see no visible signs of algae growing), your phosphates could be too low. To fix this, you would just feed some more. How many fish do you have in your DT? Have you ever seen any signs of algae growing? hair algae, bubble algae, algae on your glass, etc. FWIW, it may take a few weeks before you start to see the differences after you correct the issue.
Kalk, on the other hand, also has effects on lowering phosphates. If you were testing 0.0 PO4 before the kalk with your hannah meter, and you are still getting 0.0 PO4 (and you see no visible signs of algae growing), your phosphates could be too low. To fix this, you would just feed some more. How many fish do you have in your DT? Have you ever seen any signs of algae growing? hair algae, bubble algae, algae on your glass, etc. FWIW, it may take a few weeks before you start to see the differences after you correct the issue.
Sometimes bleaching coralline algae can come from too much light which can also cause bleaching of corals. If this is the case, moving the coral down until it gets acclimated is the answer.
Kalk, on the other hand, also has effects on lowering phosphates. If you were testing 0.0 PO4 before the kalk with your hannah meter, and you are still getting 0.0 PO4 (and you see no visible signs of algae growing), your phosphates could be too low. To fix this, you would just feed some more. How many fish do you have in your DT? Have you ever seen any signs of algae growing? hair algae, bubble algae, algae on your glass, etc. FWIW, it may take a few weeks before you start to see the differences after you correct the issue.
Kalk, on the other hand, also has effects on lowering phosphates. If you were testing 0.0 PO4 before the kalk with your hannah meter, and you are still getting 0.0 PO4 (and you see no visible signs of algae growing), your phosphates could be too low. To fix this, you would just feed some more. How many fish do you have in your DT? Have you ever seen any signs of algae growing? hair algae, bubble algae, algae on your glass, etc. FWIW, it may take a few weeks before you start to see the differences after you correct the issue.
Spyderturbo007
New member
Thanks for helping out and for all the suggestions. Maybe I should back off the Kalk dosage that I'm using for now and allow the Alkalinity to drop?
I only have 3 fish in there for now and probably won't purchase another one until after the holiday. Then it's a month in QT, so I doubt I'll get anything else in there before February.
I don't have any algae at all really. I get a little bit right at my overflow and a very small amount on my Vortech pumps. I have to clean the glass about every 7 - 10 days and even then, it's only a minor white film.
I only have 3 fish in there for now and probably won't purchase another one until after the holiday. Then it's a month in QT, so I doubt I'll get anything else in there before February.
I don't have any algae at all really. I get a little bit right at my overflow and a very small amount on my Vortech pumps. I have to clean the glass about every 7 - 10 days and even then, it's only a minor white film.
danil
New member
Keep it up. I'm sure you are on the right track. Just do one thing at a time and take it slow. If you want to drop alk to 8 do it very slowly. Nothing can kill your corals quicker then alk drop. If you don't feel comfortable with Kalk - switch to two parts. Undeniably its more predictable, scalable, stable way to dose. I don't think your problem is in your lighting. Lights on my opinion is always second to water parameters. Keep providing more nutrients to your system till the point you can register them on your test kits and stop there then wait for few months to see the result. When you reach the stable point add new coral as a test. For stressed corals in your tank recovery time could be extremely long.
ps. What skimmer do you use? I hope it's not oversized. If it is... you can play around with air intake to limit it out. Overskimming could be a problem you have to fight in your situation.
ps. What skimmer do you use? I hope it's not oversized. If it is... you can play around with air intake to limit it out. Overskimming could be a problem you have to fight in your situation.
Spyderturbo007
New member
It's a Bubble Magus 3.5 (BM-NAC 3.5), which I think is good up to 75 gallons but I honestly don't remember. I only have to empty the collection cup once a week or so.
I moved the Stylophora coral down to the sand bed and it seems to be regaining it's color already. It's amazing to me that you can bleach an SPS with 4 T5 bulbs when it's only 1/2 way up the tank.
Still no go with the Hammer Coral. That's the one I really care about to be honest. It was my first piece of live stock and as you can see by the pictures on the first page, it was gorgeous. Now it's all bleached and doesn't really extend it's tentacles much anymore. I haven't seen a sweeper in weeks. Previously they were out all the time and very long.
I don't know what else I can do. I've tried everything.
I moved the Stylophora coral down to the sand bed and it seems to be regaining it's color already. It's amazing to me that you can bleach an SPS with 4 T5 bulbs when it's only 1/2 way up the tank.
Still no go with the Hammer Coral. That's the one I really care about to be honest. It was my first piece of live stock and as you can see by the pictures on the first page, it was gorgeous. Now it's all bleached and doesn't really extend it's tentacles much anymore. I haven't seen a sweeper in weeks. Previously they were out all the time and very long.
I don't know what else I can do. I've tried everything.
