Coral ID Please....
- Thread starter chuckdallas
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chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
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chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
Please help.
chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
Okay. I have phosphates at 0.07 in my 120 DT. I bought an orange montipora on Sat, and it went from orange to white in 3 days. I haven't tested my nitrates in 2 weeks (so of course everyone will blame that), but I haven't had anything (ammonia, nitrites, nitrates) above zero for 4 months.
Does anyone else know? Is this a montipora or not? I REALLY like this piece and I will do daily 5%-10% water changes for the next month or buy $200 in GFO to save it.
Does anyone else know? Is this a montipora or not? I REALLY like this piece and I will do daily 5%-10% water changes for the next month or buy $200 in GFO to save it.
chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
Oh, and since the phos was 0.1 last month, I installed a NextReef Solid Media Reactor, I have used Warner Marine Eco-BAK pellets for 3 short weeks, inserted Rowaphos and Phosban GFO bags both in and out of the reactor and have used Kent Marine Phosphate Sponge (good for 2 days). I'm trying to catch 3 fish and put them in the small 10 gallon tank to lighten the bio-load. I have cut the fish and coral feeding in half. What else can I do?
Well first off I would say take it slow. If u just had a coral die so fast I would hold off on rushing out and getting more coral.
It sounds like the monti u picked up sat. RTN'd on u and I don't think anyone really knows what causes it but I don't think its directly related to nitrate Nitrite or phos.
How what fish do u have? Ok so i just read your sig. most of these fish are small and bio load looks ok if tank has been set up for a while.
Do u use RODI?
How are ur calcium/ alk/ mag/ph values?
What other coral do u have/how are the doing?
How old is tank? Are u saying the reactor was started on april 15 or the tank. If its the tank id say you stocke the tank a little too fast.
Did u start with LR?
I wouldn't even worry about feeding ur coral the fish poop should be fine. I wouldn't worry about putting fish in the 10g, if it turns out u do have too many fish just take them back to LFS.
It sounds like the monti u picked up sat. RTN'd on u and I don't think anyone really knows what causes it but I don't think its directly related to nitrate Nitrite or phos.
How what fish do u have? Ok so i just read your sig. most of these fish are small and bio load looks ok if tank has been set up for a while.
Do u use RODI?
How are ur calcium/ alk/ mag/ph values?
What other coral do u have/how are the doing?
How old is tank? Are u saying the reactor was started on april 15 or the tank. If its the tank id say you stocke the tank a little too fast.
Did u start with LR?
I wouldn't even worry about feeding ur coral the fish poop should be fine. I wouldn't worry about putting fish in the 10g, if it turns out u do have too many fish just take them back to LFS.
Last edited:
2Addicted
New member
Scroll coral?
chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
Thanks ludiNano.
Okay, here's the scoop. My tank has been cycled since Sept 2010. I sat on RC from July to Sept 2010, reading and listening. I stocked the tank a little too fast and then got things under control. I have about 100 pounds of live rock in my 120 gallon tank. I buy RO/DI from the LFS's. My calc is 400-420. My alk runs about 7-9 dKh. I need to check Mag again but the last time it was 1250-1350. pH, I don't worry about, since I have made 5-20% water changes every 3-5 days for the 5 weeks and I'm not sure what to do if if changes. I run the fuge light from 6 pm to 9 am. I have had the tank running since Sept 2010, but the reactor is new (3-4 weeks). I used a combo of live rock and dead rock in the beginning, back in Sept 2010.
Okay, here's the scoop. My tank has been cycled since Sept 2010. I sat on RC from July to Sept 2010, reading and listening. I stocked the tank a little too fast and then got things under control. I have about 100 pounds of live rock in my 120 gallon tank. I buy RO/DI from the LFS's. My calc is 400-420. My alk runs about 7-9 dKh. I need to check Mag again but the last time it was 1250-1350. pH, I don't worry about, since I have made 5-20% water changes every 3-5 days for the 5 weeks and I'm not sure what to do if if changes. I run the fuge light from 6 pm to 9 am. I have had the tank running since Sept 2010, but the reactor is new (3-4 weeks). I used a combo of live rock and dead rock in the beginning, back in Sept 2010.
chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
I use B-Ionic alk and calc set up with Drew's Dosers and timers. The alk doser drops half the load at midnite, then the other doser drops half the calc load at 2 am, then the first doser drops the second half at 4 am and the second doser drops the second load at 6 am. I checked the calc and alk everyday for the first 2 weeks, but then haven't done it but once every 2 weeks.
well chuck i dont think .07 phos is going to cause a coral to RTN so fast.
Most all ur other param's look good, i would still monitor your ph even w/ the water changes, its the easiest test as far as im concerned.
I know RTN has been thought to have been linked to GFO in some cases maybe some other media's to. I would do some serching on here and look for some other cases.
good luck
Most all ur other param's look good, i would still monitor your ph even w/ the water changes, its the easiest test as far as im concerned.
I know RTN has been thought to have been linked to GFO in some cases maybe some other media's to. I would do some serching on here and look for some other cases.
good luck
In regards to your pm.
"RTN = ??? Tissue Necrosis.
Are you saying that GFO can cause the RTN?
Also, I HATE my Red Seas pH Test Kit. Everyone here says that pH test kits are the worst. Mine always reads the same thing. I was thinking of buying the instrument that tests for pH (not a refractometer) but I see that you have to keep them calibrated and the probes wet. I keep the fuge lights on from 2 pm to 7 am so I think my pH is relatively stable. Further, if it went up or down, I wouldn't know what to do to correct it back and I don't knwo where it's supposed to be.
Sooo, if I can't get a good reading and I don't know if the reading is in the desired range and I don't know what to do if it's outside that range, I figure with my 5-20% water changes every 3-5 days, I'm sticking my head in the sand and calling the pH good.
Any suggestions?"
RTN = Rapid tissue necrosis. Im not saying for sure i know GFO can or does cause RTN, ive just read many people believe that in there cases it has.
Ive never tried Red sea ph kits but yes most liquid color matching test kits are pretty hard to match colors, before i had a PH monitor i always used API PH liquid test. Only takes 5 drops to 5 mil. of tank water and I didnt think the color chart was to hard to get a general idea if it was too high or low.
Yes PH monitors do need calibrated every few months 3-6 and they do need to be kept wet, but thats easy with a probe holder in your sump, and you get a constant reading of what ur PH is at.
Yes Having a refugium on a reverse lighting from main tank can help from major ph shifts over night. But i still think its a good idea to regularly test your ph if you dont have a monitor.
Ph is generaly acceptable at 7.8-8.5, but even better to be held consistantly at the 8-8.3 range.
So many things can come in to play on how to correct high and low PH levels, the relationship between Calcium/ alk/ mag/ph is one of the most confusing parts of reef keeping IMO.
Here are a few reef chemistry articles.
The "How To" Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 3: pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php
Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm
High pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.htm
A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php
Solving Calcium and Alkalinity Problems
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
"RTN = ??? Tissue Necrosis.
Are you saying that GFO can cause the RTN?
Also, I HATE my Red Seas pH Test Kit. Everyone here says that pH test kits are the worst. Mine always reads the same thing. I was thinking of buying the instrument that tests for pH (not a refractometer) but I see that you have to keep them calibrated and the probes wet. I keep the fuge lights on from 2 pm to 7 am so I think my pH is relatively stable. Further, if it went up or down, I wouldn't know what to do to correct it back and I don't knwo where it's supposed to be.
Sooo, if I can't get a good reading and I don't know if the reading is in the desired range and I don't know what to do if it's outside that range, I figure with my 5-20% water changes every 3-5 days, I'm sticking my head in the sand and calling the pH good.
Any suggestions?"
RTN = Rapid tissue necrosis. Im not saying for sure i know GFO can or does cause RTN, ive just read many people believe that in there cases it has.
Ive never tried Red sea ph kits but yes most liquid color matching test kits are pretty hard to match colors, before i had a PH monitor i always used API PH liquid test. Only takes 5 drops to 5 mil. of tank water and I didnt think the color chart was to hard to get a general idea if it was too high or low.
Yes PH monitors do need calibrated every few months 3-6 and they do need to be kept wet, but thats easy with a probe holder in your sump, and you get a constant reading of what ur PH is at.
Yes Having a refugium on a reverse lighting from main tank can help from major ph shifts over night. But i still think its a good idea to regularly test your ph if you dont have a monitor.
Ph is generaly acceptable at 7.8-8.5, but even better to be held consistantly at the 8-8.3 range.
So many things can come in to play on how to correct high and low PH levels, the relationship between Calcium/ alk/ mag/ph is one of the most confusing parts of reef keeping IMO.
Here are a few reef chemistry articles.
The "How To" Guide to Reef Aquarium Chemistry for Beginners, Part 3: pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php
Low pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-09/rhf/index.htm
High pH: Causes and Cures
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-03/rhf/index.htm
A Simplified Guide to the Relationship Between Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium and pH
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-06/rhf/index.php
Solving Calcium and Alkalinity Problems
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
So justin_g is saying scrolling monti but everyone else is saying echinopora chalice. Any more suggestions?
What's a scrolling monti?
What's a scrolling monti?
chuckdallas
Tank Tinkerer
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