coral not open...
- Thread starter ju66alo6
- Start date
reefnetworth
Premium Member
what kind of coral?
list all of your parameters?
what type of lighting?
equiptment list?
where is the coral located in the tank?
how much flow is it receiving?
list all of your parameters?
what type of lighting?
equiptment list?
where is the coral located in the tank?
how much flow is it receiving?
coral:
Green Montipora
parameters:
ph 8.0
nitrates 5-10
nitrites 0
ammonia 0
Type of lighting:
1 actninc
1 10k
Coral is on a peice of liverock about 6 in. from bottom of tank, i have 2 1200 maxijets it is in a med. flow spot in the tank.
Also thr is pods crawlin on it will that keep it from opening? They started crawlin on him as soon as i put it in the tank.
Green Montipora
parameters:
ph 8.0
nitrates 5-10
nitrites 0
ammonia 0
Type of lighting:
1 actninc
1 10k
Coral is on a peice of liverock about 6 in. from bottom of tank, i have 2 1200 maxijets it is in a med. flow spot in the tank.
Also thr is pods crawlin on it will that keep it from opening? They started crawlin on him as soon as i put it in the tank.
reefnetworth
Premium Member
Montis' can take a couple of days to adjust and show polup extention.
the pods, im assuming theyre amp. or tigerpods since they are visible, are just doing normal (cleaning) activity.
placement, IMO, is a little low for a 75G depth but, i would leave it there for a couple more days and allow it to adjust to your lighting.
N03 could be a touch high compared to what the coral is used to, some can handle as much as 5.0, but 10.0 is pushing it.
i would consider a 20% water change or filtration/carbon change at the least.
i would also consider changing to a 14K or a 20K depending on the wattage.
if its a 150W i would use a 14K, 250W or greater i would go with the 20K. :thumbsup:
the pods, im assuming theyre amp. or tigerpods since they are visible, are just doing normal (cleaning) activity.
placement, IMO, is a little low for a 75G depth but, i would leave it there for a couple more days and allow it to adjust to your lighting.
N03 could be a touch high compared to what the coral is used to, some can handle as much as 5.0, but 10.0 is pushing it.
i would consider a 20% water change or filtration/carbon change at the least.
i would also consider changing to a 14K or a 20K depending on the wattage.
if its a 150W i would use a 14K, 250W or greater i would go with the 20K. :thumbsup:
reefnetworth
Premium Member
FWIW, my parms are:
pH @ 8.4-8.5 diurnal. (night to day)
Alk @ 10dKH
CaCl2 @ 450
Mg @ 1350 (Mg should be at least 3X's Ca readings)
N03 is undetectable.
Temp. @ 80.1-80.4 diurnal.
pH @ 8.4-8.5 diurnal. (night to day)
Alk @ 10dKH
CaCl2 @ 450
Mg @ 1350 (Mg should be at least 3X's Ca readings)
N03 is undetectable.
Temp. @ 80.1-80.4 diurnal.
reefnetworth
Premium Member
cool!
the min. 20% WC should be done every week without fail.
i choose to do mine on Sundays because its really the only day i have time to do em'.
30% is best, but, if you have a low stock tank, 20% is good enough as long as your NH3/NH4, N02/N03 remain undetectable.
the min. 20% WC should be done every week without fail.
i choose to do mine on Sundays because its really the only day i have time to do em'.
30% is best, but, if you have a low stock tank, 20% is good enough as long as your NH3/NH4, N02/N03 remain undetectable.
ju66alo, do what you can to get Nitrate to zero or nearly so. If you have a cannister filter, try to go all live-rock-sand filtration instead, withdrawing media very slowly. If you are not using ro/di, do: nitrate can come from conditioned tap water. I do a 10% change weekly. Also phosphates bother corals: if you have a lot of algae in display tank, you have a phosphate problem: a fuge or Phosban can help.
HTH.
HTH.
