Coralife BioCube 29g Build

Coralife BioCube 29g Build

The depth kills the effectiveness of the lighting , if you put frag racks about 2/3 up you can keep acans and duncans do ok but since I got mine under the leds iv gotten 3 baby heads .
You may be ok if you put plugs in the rock work and such .
The lighting Will suffice for a bit , but bulbs need replacing every 8-10months so when you eventually reach that point the switch is easy and cost effective .
The only thing Id urge is the skimmer , I do weekly water change but I still get a lot of skimate , every little bit helps in this game.
I never would have considered a skimmer on my pico just because even the smallest were to large but there are a few that fit the back. Dont bother with a coralife Biocube skimmer it makes for a stupid looking paper weight , other than that its useless.
 
I've been following d2mini's latest build thread
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2570484&page=27

He just got his second shipment of the TBS package. As always, his build is amazing.

Two things about his build that have me thinking:
1) I am now considering the Triton Method for my next tank. I like the concept from what I'm reading.
2) I am wondering if I would stick with another Apex controller on the next tank or go with the GHL ProfiLux.

I plan on keeping my BioCube just the way it is because it really is working well for me, so that means the Apex stays with it. Since I would already need to be buying a new controller, it is the perfect time to look at something different.

I like the GHL dosing pump better than the Apex DOS, and I also think I like the Ecotech MP40s compared to the WAV pumps since they have their motors outside of the tank. Neptune still hasn't released the COR pump yet, though that may be soon, and I really like the Vectra pump by Ecotech.

Don't get me wrong... I still like my Apex and the Neptune products, but the GHL stuff seems pretty nice too and maybe opens up more options for equipment. I'd like to look at the programming interface fro the ProfiLux more because I am not a fan of the Apex advanced programming. Maybe I'm just not doing it right, but I have had issues trying to fine tune things.
 
So my quick thoughts.

Triton method as I understand it is simply testing by the triton company to ensure that elements and such are up to spec in the tank and to dose as needed. Does one save money doing constant tests over water changes? I haven't looked into the costs but for my large tank I require anywhere from 60-120 gallons of salt water a month so my monthly salt cost with cheap RC is 15-25 bucks.

I almost went profilix but decided against it for both controller and doser. You know money is not issue with me and the tank and that I almost walked out with the GHL doser at MACNA. That said I have issues with the fact that parts are hard to come by, it does not integrate with everything without wanting to take it apart and do some innards work yourself, and their interface is seriously lacking. Look into the GHL doser thread and see all the issues people are having with it. Though I guess same could be said for my Kore doser (though 90% of those are people not buying a BT adapter)

There si a reason Apex is the top of the market and right or wrong seem to be one of the few innovating. I was hopeful that the Tunze or Vertex controllers would come on strong and apply some pressure but at least the Tunze was a disappointment for me.

I have no stake in the MP40 vs WAV but I balk when people talk about the motor outside the tank saving heat. Listen unless your tank is at temp without any heaters running then this is not an issue. Any heat supplied by the powerheads is heat that the heaters dont have to apply to the tank. now if you are at the point where chillers are needed then that is a legit issue but 90% of people it is not. The benefit I see with the MP though is the smaller in tank footprint. My WAVs are rather large.

As for controller programing *** are you trying to do that you can't figure out? LOL. Seriously turn off heater when temp reaches x degrees should be like the most difficult in a nano not running dosers and AWC.

I am struggling to find code that will turn off my ATO when I do a water change with the DOS and I might need to get the salinity probe to better keep things in check. Unsure yet but I have code to turn off certain equipment at times, alerts when containers get low, ect. Apex is all if when code so if that is difficult I think you shoudl look at the language for profilix. Couple that with the fact that 90% of what you wish to do with an apex has already been done with posted code I think you will come to fact that apex is easier to code.

My biggest gripe with profilix though is the powerbar. That thing is giant. If they had a smaller brick when I was looking I very might have had it at this point.....
 
I'm glad that soulpatch basically summed up what I was going to say. Between him and Homer, I don't have to post much any more :p

Triton is super expensive, and is the next fad. Stick with water changes, keeping nutrients low and calcium/alkalinity high (appropriately so), and you'll be good. I think triton figured out how to sell more supplements than Zeo, which is impressive (and profitable!). The testing is somewhat useful when used sparingly, but I'm not convinced that dosing individual (expensive) minerals to bring them back to NSW levels, versus just doing water changes (inexpensively) is worthwhile.

Profilux is nice and has always been nice, but the user base is small in the USA, and I'm not sure how good the support will be, particularly next to Neptune. That is a huge problem with european-based products in the hobby. They all make a considerable effort, but at the end of the day, with something as complex as the profilux, it's easier for the devs/company to be US based.

I'm also not just bashing because it's non-USA, and U-S-A!! U-S-A!! U-S-A!!, I'm saying it because I've been there before and it was tough going. It was when controllers were still in their relative infancy, I got an Aquatronica, which was more popular than the Profilux at that time, and more sophisticated than where the old Neptune Aquacontroller 3s were at that time. It was a great controller, but any time an issue came up, there was some here and there posts on stuff, but company support was ho-hum, and even with a few locals using the system, I found it to leave me at a disadvantage vs. a run-of-the-mill Aquacontroller setup.

They mostly do the same thing these days. I've actually been pretty impressed with the high-level of the Apex programming that I encountered, helping a neighbor set up some alerts on his system.
 
Thanks for the feedback!

Like I said, they’re just thoughts at this point as I explore possibilities for the new tank.

Regarding ProfiLux, I haven’t done much research at all, but the UI didn’t seem that appealing to me. However, the GHL doser looked appealing if I was going to go the Triton route since there are 4 pumps in a small space. The DOS is pretty large, and I’ve heard people complaining of noise from it.

As far as Triton, from what I’m reading the water tests are generally only every 3-4 months once your tank is stable and the test is $49. I didn’t price the dosing elements, but people were saying it isn’t too expensive. I can certainly, and was already planning to, setup and use an AWC method. I just happened to start looking at the Triton method and found it interesting. I could still use some of the methods. I just love the idea of a system that sort of supports itself as much as possible. That’s what I was going for with my BC, but I don’t have a refugium, so water changes are a must. Also, if I’m going to setup AWC for the BC, which I intend to keep, it should be easy enough to set it up for both tanks.

The MP40 vs WAV is interesting to me. For now, the tank I am looking at will still be rather small compared to Soulpatch’s 150g… but my wife may warm up to a larger tank. Because the footprint in the tank is much smaller, I think I like the MP40s for their smaller footprint inside the tank… but I DO love the WAV integration with the Apex!! That can’t be discounted! It’s a tough call that doesn’t need to be answered right now.

Apex:
The new Apex Controller is pretty slick (have you guys seen it yet?). I like the fact that WiFi is built in now. It’s funny… when I was starting out, $800 for a controller seemed out of this world crazy, but now it’s a given and I wouldn’t have it any other way. I’m REALLY glad I won the Apex Gold from MACNA last year because it opened my eyes. But I guess spend is relative to value. If you don’t know what value you get for the money, it’s hard to justify. Likewise, once you realize the value for the money, it is super easy to justify. ;-) Anyway, the advice to stick with Apex makes sense. Then I’ll have one interface, which I already know, for my 3 tanks (only 2 currently). And Fusion is easy to switch between tanks and turn things on/off, etc.

Soulpatch, you are SO right about the Profilux Powerbar!! Not only is it massive, but it’s only 6 outlets compared to the 8 on the Apex. Crazy.

Programming:
The main thing I was trying to program was my ATO in two ways:
1. Have it turn off whenever my main pump turns off
2. Have it tied to the salinity probe so it is only on if my salinity drops (I do realize there are swings throughout the day).

I had some programming that I got watching a BRStv video to turn the ATO off when the main pump is off, but it wouldn’t work. I didn’t dig *too* much, but I tried a couple different things and just couldn’t get it to work.

The reason I wanted to manage the ATO based on the salinity probe is because my media basket will sometimes fill up when I don’t change out the filter floss or when my bags of carbon/gfo get clogged from junk (I know… I should just maintain them better… it ain’t gonna happen). So the media basket fills up with water which lowers the water level in the rest of the sump and kicks off the ATO because it thinks it needs to replace RO water. So then my salinity drops because it wasn’t really needed. It’s then a PITA to get back on track. I was simply thinking that tying it to the salinity probe is a more scientific way to know if RO is needed.

I have noticed this problem for quite some time, but more drastically with the new return pump since it is moving a lot more water and my filter floss is getting trashed VERY quickly (I also over feed).

Anyway, I have found the Salinity probe to be pretty accurate, so was thinking of using it as a fail safe, but I can’t figure out how to write the programming.
 
I can see the triton method working if you have room for large refugium and are ok with monthly testing for a while. No way you coudl get away with 3-4 tests unless you stock everythign at once. And even then growth of the corals and such would change your uses so you would never be in spec after a couple weeks from a test. I see the benefits of it as more hands off but I dont agree with it in terms of keeping everything in check without frequent testing and at that point you negate any water change savings.

Even then a single test at $50 is 200 gallons worth of salt. If one sets up an AWC station and uses right size containers then you only need to worry about mixing up water every other week or monthly. IE my 75 gallon drum if I set it to do my 20% weekly will last me 2 weeks without touching the tank for water changes. I can mix up the 30 gallons in the smaller tank and send to the 75 gallon tank as needed... easy peasy.

I still would say the Pacific Sun Kore 5th doser over the GHL. Hell you might be able to buy mine from me if you are serious further down the line as I will likely go to the calc reactor route myself since I am getting more and more into SPS. I am not sure I will want to deal with 2 part when it really pops off. I have yet to use the doser myself though as I just started stocking up on the sps.

For the DOS doser it is what it is. I can't comment on the noise yet but plan on using it for AWC so I dont care much about potential noise too much. In the grand scheme of things the slight bit of noise from the tank is a non issue for me. I hear the fans of the lights and the slight hum of the pumps if I am close and the kid/wife aren't yelling about something.

When you set up your next tank will it be in same room? If so run an aquabus line to the other apex and you can control everything off of one unit without having to buy another system. you can get any modules you need or just eb8s.

Should you really want to get a second system let me know and maybe we can work something out there as well if you dont need everything on the new system. I would like the salinity monitoring and the new EB32 would allow me to get rid of a few wires I have now with my 1 link module. I just can't justify spending the money fresh for upgrade for stuff I dont need when there are other things I can spend on like coral, calc reactor, dedicated frag tank, ect.

BTW did you see that BRS is now selling those new IM tanks we had talked about before? They are sweet looking. I am considering trashing my biocube and grabbing on of them as a frag tank. The panorama tank looks pretty slick.

as for coding:

When is the return turning off? Do you kill it for feed mode? If so add the same code to the ato as the return pump to turn off during feed mode and give the delay an additional 5 minutes so that the level is down enough before it turns back on.

Evap would actually cause your salinity to rise. You can tie the unit to the salinity probe similar to how everything else is tied to the temp probe. I dont have the probe so I dont know what they call it in fusion but it would be similar to:

if salinity > 1.026 then on
 
Even then a single test at $50 is 200 gallons worth of salt. If one sets up an AWC station and uses right size containers then you only need to worry about mixing up water every other week or monthly. IE my 75 gallon drum if I set it to do my 20% weekly will last me 2 weeks without touching the tank for water changes. I can mix up the 30 gallons in the smaller tank and send to the 75 gallon tank as needed... easy peasy.

Valid point! And, like I said, since I am already planning on setting up AWC for my BC29 it makes sense to just follow suit with the new tank. I will definitely want to pick your brain around the setup once I am closer to learn from you. I am thinking I may need bigger than 75g drums for two reasons: 1) Depends on what size my new tank is, and 2) So I can only worry about monthly maintenance in that regard. (man I am lazy)

I still would say the Pacific Sun Kore 5th doser over the GHL. Hell you might be able to buy mine from me if you are serious further down the line as I will likely go to the calc reactor route myself since I am getting more and more into SPS. I am not sure I will want to deal with 2 part when it really pops off. I have yet to use the doser myself though as I just started stocking up on the sps.

Was that the doser you and I saw at MACNA?? I was thinking that one was the GHL... I guess they look similar, but everything was still so new to me when we went to MACNA. ;-) I am also thinking I'd like to go fairly heavy on SPS... it's just so cool looking and the wife likes it.

For the DOS doser it is what it is. I can't comment on the noise yet but plan on using it for AWC so I dont care much about potential noise too much. In the grand scheme of things the slight bit of noise from the tank is a non issue for me. I hear the fans of the lights and the slight hum of the pumps if I am close and the kid/wife aren't yelling about something.

Same here on the noisy house. It's not like it will be in an area that would disturb someone from sleep (unless I put the BC29 in the boys room). I'm still trying to figure out where the DOSes would need to be for the best performance.

When you set up your next tank will it be in same room? If so run an aquabus line to the other apex and you can control everything off of one unit without having to buy another system. you can get any modules you need or just eb8s.

Should you really want to get a second system let me know and maybe we can work something out there as well if you dont need everything on the new system. I would like the salinity monitoring and the new EB32 would allow me to get rid of a few wires I have now with my 1 link module. I just can't justify spending the money fresh for upgrade for stuff I dont need when there are other things I can spend on like coral, calc reactor, dedicated frag tank, ect.

I guess I never even considered using the same Apex for multiple tanks, but you are SOOO right!! Duh! However, I currently have two Apex's (1 gold and 1 Jr) and I do like that each system is for its own tank. Nice delineation... but I'm sure I could make it easy to figure stuff out with labeling on a single controller.

What the heck is the EB32??? A 32 outlet Energy Bar?? I currently have two EB8s and am only using 8 outlets for my BC29. That would change possibly with the AWC setup, but easy enough to add another EB8.

The two tanks will most likely NOT be in the same room, but I believe you can run a very long Aquabus cable (I thought I remembered reading it could be 300ft), and my house isn't that big. ;-)

BTW did you see that BRS is now selling those new IM tanks we had talked about before? They are sweet looking. I am considering trashing my biocube and grabbing on of them as a frag tank. The panorama tank looks pretty slick.

Just looked... VERY cool! Those abyss tanks are so cool. While I was on there that IM SR120 caught my eye again. I LOVE the look of that long shallow tank... but I hate the AIO in the sense that it doesn't easily/elegantly allow for a sump. AND, I hate that you lose precious inches of aqua scaping to the rear sump. Of course, I could always look at getting a custom tank similar to that design that is meant for a sump. My two main concerns around getting a regular sump are the skimmer and wanting to run a large refugium.

as for coding:

When is the return turning off? Do you kill it for feed mode? If so add the same code to the ato as the return pump to turn off during feed mode and give the delay an additional 5 minutes so that the level is down enough before it turns back on.

Evap would actually cause your salinity to rise. You can tie the unit to the salinity probe similar to how everything else is tied to the temp probe. I dont have the probe so I dont know what they call it in fusion but it would be similar to:

if salinity > 1.026 then on

I do have the ATO setup as a pump and use the feeding schedule and a longer delay. It works fine in that regard, but I was thinking for when I do maintenance it would be great to only turn off the main pump and have the ATO automatically turn off.

I think I messed with the Salinity thing, but I guess the programming alluded me. I think you have to set it off as the first line, and then anything else would turn it on?? I tried a couple different things and looked around for help to figure it out, but ultimately couldn't get it to work the way I wanted and just gave up and went back to the pump setting.
 
Got my new Sicce Syncra Silent 1.5 (358gph) pump to replace the Rio. While the Rio was dead silent when I installed it, it has since become SUPER noisy!! Like, it's crazy how loud it is.
ceab29999ccd9d84969d5dea58b77b11.jpg


I guess I'll just keep the Rio as my emergency pump, and I still have the stock pump too.


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I'd like to start formulating my plan/layout for the AWC station and start ordering parts like the holding/mixing tanks, DOSes, etc.


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I changed my aquascape. The pistol shrimp systematically dug under the rocks and caused them to shift and ruin the cave I originally made, and the clowns basically never came out.

Here is the before
8759ea56fc8ca7724326fc1025934cd9.jpg


Here is the new design
437bc0dce7743e6a2199d2999f805684.jpg

127ad0532e1c36f081779d23361899cd.jpg


I felt like the last arrangement wound up looking like a pile of rocks. This at least draws the eye off center.

What do you think?


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I like it but you might have dead spot now. Oh and you need more corals lol

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I think I may have had more dead spots before, but not sure. I feel like I am getting better water movement now though.

I also was able to bring the beige sea fan forward, which has a purple bulbous thing growing in it. It is really cool looking in person, and the pics don't do it justice. Both of those were additions from Richard in my TBS package.

Yes"¦ I need more corals!!

Once I get my AWC figured out and setup, and a skimmer running (not sure if I will try my AquaticLife 115 in the middle chamber or buy a new one) I plan on adding more corals.

With the new aquascape, I think I'd like a ricordia farm to the right, and some larger softies on the left rock wall.

I'm still trying to figure out my next tank, but I am leaning toward a 6' tank lately. I love the shallow reef look, and am even toying with a tank that is in the back room with a wall cutout into my dining room. I just need my 18 year old to move out of the back room! LOL

I will probably work on refinishing my basement to make an office and a bedroom for the 18yo and free up that back room as a fish room.


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What I love about the new layout is that I get to see MUCH more of my clowns, and I feel like it opens up the tank so much more.

Also, my rock flower anemone is more visible now. It hasn't moved yet, so seems like it is okay with the new layout and flow. It has been about 4 days since I made the change.

I'll have to figure out if I do have a dead spot to deal with"¦ but definitely seems to have better flow than before just by looking at things are moving. The GSP is definitely moving more.

I am looking to replace my jebaeo rw4 with something better. Not sure what just yet.


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You could always try out my Gyre and see if you like it. Just needs cleaned up as it has been sitting and I never cleaned the coraline off of it from before.

For corals I will have to send you the site I am trying to go through for some Rics. He is supposed to make rainbow rocks and is going to ping me before he puts them on the site. Saw him at Reefapalooza and his rics were some of the best I have ever seen.

I think you could throw in some ultra rock nems as well to add some color on the vertical portions of the rock work.
Then fill out with low key LPS like some acans, a gold torch, and maybe something the wife would like such as alveopopra.
 
Ok I'm totally not understanding the complexity or the complaints with programming the apex? But then again I have a background in computer programming. :D

Post your code and what your trying to do, I will most certainly try to help out. I use no wizards, all advanced programming. Its like old school DOS, if and then statements, pretty simple in my eyes.


And depending on the situtation, 99% of the time you want to set on, and your conditionals will set it off.

For instance in a feed mode for my ATO(feed modeC being my maintenance mode):

Fallback ON
Set ON
If Sw3 OPEN Then OFF
If FeedC 000 Then OFF

Sw3 is the float in my ATO jug, when it trips off, then it shuts the ATO pump down.
 
You could always try out my Gyre and see if you like it. Just needs cleaned up as it has been sitting and I never cleaned the coraline off of it from before.

For corals I will have to send you the site I am trying to go through for some Rics. He is supposed to make rainbow rocks and is going to ping me before he puts them on the site. Saw him at Reefapalooza and his rics were some of the best I have ever seen.

I think you could throw in some ultra rock nems as well to add some color on the vertical portions of the rock work.
Then fill out with low key LPS like some acans, a gold torch, and maybe something the wife would like such as alveopopra.


I like the ideas! I definitely want to get some more colors in there, but also need to get a skimmer working well and would like to setup my AWC to make sure things stay in check.

I'm pretty horrible with keeping up with maintenance, so anything I can do to automate is worth ten times its weight in gold to me.

And on that note, I have been watching some videos on the new Apex from Neptune and I REALLY like the changes and advancements. I will definitely be buying a new one and probably sell off one or both of my other Apex's and run everything off the new one.

As for a new tank, it is still a way off I think, but I am now leaning toward the Red Sea Reefer XL 525"¦ if I can convince the wife that it makes sense to down-size the dining room table and use that space for a huge tank. ;-)

I love the look of the IM SR-120, with its 6' length and low height, but after reading a ton around shallow reef tanks, I'm not sure it would be as practical as I would want it to be, and I definitely don't want to go AIO on a tank that big. PLUS, it looks like IM may have discontinued it.

I wish the Reefer came in a 6' length, but I guess 5' is enough. I just love how streamlined and polished the Reefer tank and stand looks.


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Ok I'm totally not understanding the complexity or the complaints with programming the apex? But then again I have a background in computer programming. :D

Post your code and what your trying to do, I will most certainly try to help out. I use no wizards, all advanced programming. Its like old school DOS, if and then statements, pretty simple in my eyes.


And depending on the situtation, 99% of the time you want to set on, and your conditionals will set it off.

For instance in a feed mode for my ATO(feed modeC being my maintenance mode):

Fallback ON
Set ON
If Sw3 OPEN Then OFF
If FeedC 000 Then OFF

Sw3 is the float in my ATO jug, when it trips off, then it shuts the ATO pump down.


I am leaving for vacation today, but will try and post something around this during the week if I find a lull. I never spent too much time researching it, but I believe what I saw on BRStv may have steered me a little wrong. I saw other comments of people not being able to get it to work.

I definitely want to use some form of automated maintenance setting like a feed mode so I don't forget to turn things back on.


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