Could someone explain dual tank QT?

[enforcer8621]

I have a QT available for my next fish purchase and I plan on keeping him in there before he goes in the DT. I've heard mention of using two tanks to rid any ich from the tank and I get the concept, however, I can't find anything on how to do it properly. Could I get some instruction?
I don't anticipate a problem but I do not want ich in the DT if I can help it.

 

[triggreef]

You really should be able to find what your looking for if you search TTM, if not try TTM instructions or guide

 

[HumbleFish]

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1996525

 

[enforcer8621]

Thanks!

 

[Spar]

do you already have a DT setup with fish that weren't QT'ed to begin with? If so, just FYI, you likely already have Ich in that tank, you just aren't seeing it as the fish have a strong immune system. Just so you aren't surprised if the start seeing Ich even after going through QT with new fish.

Good choice on QT'ing! and great choice on Tank Transfer Method, my favorite option by far.

 

[enforcer8621]

do you already have a DT setup with fish that weren't QT'ed to begin with? If so, just FYI, you likely already have Ich in that tank, you just aren't seeing it as the fish have a strong immune system. Just so you aren't surprised if the start seeing Ich even after going through QT with new fish.

Good choice on QT'ing! and great choice on Tank Transfer Method, my favorite option by far.

Yes, I do have a lawnmower blenny that I did a FW dip with formalin and malachite green on. He's quite healthy and eating well. He's been all by his lonesome for 3 weeks now. If he did carry ich, he's got quite an immunity. The FW dip was anxiety ridden for both of us. Its what I had at the time though.

 

[Spar]

keep in mind that Ich isn't always visible, for instance any Ich in the gills. the white spots you see on infested fish are actually the 'exit wounds' of the parasite that was under the skin when feeding and then dropped off to cyst and split.

I forgot the exact stats, but the percentage of fish that carry at least 'some' Ich is a quite high percentage. It is high enough that it is easier to just assume they have Ich rather than not. The high immune fish are just able to battle off the high infestations, but is likely they still have a population on them somewhere, just not enough to irritate them.

You won't like this next comment, but, given you are starting down the QT path now, I would highly recommend you pull that lawnmower and QT him through TTM as well. Run the DT fallow for 10-12 weeks. Since best practice is to QT and observe fish for a total of 8 weeks, you are only adding an extra 2-4 weeks to your timeline; minor in the big picture.

Anything new you add to the tank that is wet (live rock, inverts, coral, etc), best practice is to QT them fallow for 10-12 weeks as well, to ensure that any Tomites (Ich cysts) have hatched and run their course.

this will start you off on a near-perfect course for an Ich-free tank for life. well worth the time investment, IMO.

 

[enforcer8621]

keep in mind that Ich isn't always visible, for instance any Ich in the gills. the white spots you see on infested fish are actually the 'exit wounds' of the parasite that was under the skin when feeding and then dropped off to cyst and split.

I forgot the exact stats, but the percentage of fish that carry at least 'some' Ich is a quite high percentage. It is high enough that it is easier to just assume they have Ich rather than not. The high immune fish are just able to battle off the high infestations, but is likely they still have a population on them somewhere, just not enough to irritate them.

You won't like this next comment, but, given you are starting down the QT path now, I would highly recommend you pull that lawnmower and QT him through TTM as well. Run the DT fallow for 10-12 weeks. Since best practice is to QT and observe fish for a total of 8 weeks, you are only adding an extra 2-4 weeks to your timeline; minor in the big picture.

Anything new you add to the tank that is wet (live rock, inverts, coral, etc), best practice is to QT them fallow for 10-12 weeks as well, to ensure that any Tomites (Ich cysts) have hatched and run their course.

this will start you off on a near-perfect course for an Ich-free tank for life. well worth the time investment, IMO.

Been running through my mind....well I got two days off so I might as well.

 

[snorvich]

keep in mind that Ich isn't always visible, for instance any Ich in the gills. the white spots you see on infested fish are actually the 'exit wounds' of the parasite that was under the skin when feeding and then dropped off to cyst and split.

I forgot the exact stats, but the percentage of fish that carry at least 'some' Ich is a quite high percentage. It is high enough that it is easier to just assume they have Ich rather than not. The high immune fish are just able to battle off the high infestations, but is likely they still have a population on them somewhere, just not enough to irritate them.

You won't like this next comment, but, given you are starting down the QT path now, I would highly recommend you pull that lawnmower and QT him through TTM as well. Run the DT fallow for 10-12 weeks. Since best practice is to QT and observe fish for a total of 8 weeks, you are only adding an extra 2-4 weeks to your timeline; minor in the big picture.

Anything new you add to the tank that is wet (live rock, inverts, coral, etc), best practice is to QT them fallow for 10-12 weeks as well, to ensure that any Tomites (Ich cysts) have hatched and run their course.

this will start you off on a near-perfect course for an Ich-free tank for life. well worth the time investment, IMO.

Which is why I tank transfer quarantine all new fish.