Cup Corals

[Gdevine]

I recently purchased to two cup corals for my 65g set-up EcoSystem. I did my research and purchased one orange cup coral and one (neon) yellow cup coral. Both reside in caves away from direct light and sit on the live sand.

The colonies are structured different for both where the orange cup(s) are smaller and rounder where the neon yellow is a larger (longer) cup.

I direct feed with a syringe using Cycolp-ezee, a tiny amount of defrosted shrimp and some trace minerals/vitamins once a day.

The two feed differently and the question I have is this;

The orange cup opens up with a tiny hole for its mouth and with very short polyps (almost appears plump around the small opening with tiny polyps).

The neon yellow cup however responds differently with long neon green/yellow long polyps…almost hairy looking!

Do cup corals have differing polyp lengths like this or is there something wrong with the orange cup with the small short polyps.

They are healthy and look great but I don’t understand this difference.

Thoughts?

Thanks so much,

 

[drummereef]

I really don't know much about them but here's a good link.

http://www.asira.org/turbinaria

 

[Gdevine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10175929#post10175929 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by drummereef
I really don't know much about them but here's a good link.

http://www.asira.org/turbinaria

Thanks; but I am aware of most of what's posted here.

One feeds with very bushy polyps and the other appearing very hesitant.

Probably not uncommon as both colonies are new and its probably more to do with acclimation then anything else.

I'll just keep direct feeding and bring these baby's out

 

[hmello@bermexin]

I don't think you need to feed them daily though. Once or twice per week no?

 

[Gdevine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10177146#post10177146 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hmello@bermexin
I don't think you need to feed them daily though. Once or twice per week no?

My research found daily feeding. See below:

The Sun Coral (Orange) has a orange, orange-yellow, red-orange color.
Type of hard coral: Large polyp stony coral (LPS).
Diet: Planktivore.
Feeding: It likes to eat Filter Feeding Invert Food, Meaty bits like raw shrimp, Silver Side and Mysis Shrimp.
Behavior: The Tubastrea aurea is generally peaceful toward other tankmates.Care: Many consider the Tubastrea aurea a high-maintenance specimen.
Lighting: Has low lighting needs.This coral is non-photosynthetic
Water flow: The Tube Orange Coral, Sun Coral Tube Coral, Orange Sun Coral requires low water flow.
General notes: The Orange Sun Coral is a very delicate coral. The branches can be very thin and break easily and the orange skin on the polyp easily damaged with excessive handling. This coral is labor intensive as it requires having each individual polyp fed daily. It is not photosynthetic and prefers to be kept in a cave, or rocky overhang than out in the light. The polyps of this coral are often yellow but sometimes orange or white.
Water parameters: Keep water quality high (SG 1.023 - 1.025, pH 8.1 - 8.4, Temp. 72 - 78° F).
Origin: The Sun Coral (Orange) is commonly collected from Indo-Pacific.

Specifications: Due to variations in growth of Corals from depth, environment, flow, etc. it is impossible to pinpoint exact sizes. These sizes are very approximate and will not apply in all situations. SMALL is generally smaller than a baseball, MEDIUM is generally smaller than a softball and LARGE is generally larger than a softball.
Tips: Sun corals open for feeding at night. They require feeding meaty foods. One way to feed them is to put them in a small container of tank water and feed frozen Cyclopeeze. Use a turkey baster to keep the water flowing and the Cyclopeeze in suspension. They usually will open in a few minuets. If you feed them at the same time every day they will start to open before/around that time. It can take a fair bit of time to get them opening during the day. In nature Sun polyps are often found on the roof and sides of caves. The ideal place for your sun coral is out of the light in a cave or over hang with good flow. Make sure it is somewhere easy to get to for feeding. If debris or sand collects on the polyps they will not open and die very quickly. SC
This coral is labor intensive as it requires having each individual polyp fed daily.

 

[hmello@bermexin]

WOW! Thanks Gdevine. That is some labor intensive coral. :hammer:

 

[Avi]

I'm a bit unclear as to whether we're mixing turbinaria and tubastrea, here. They're two completely unrelated coral, with the tubastrea being non-photosynthetic and the turbinaria being photosynthetic.

The turbinarea is capable of thriving even without feedings. On the other hand, the tubastreas are dependent on ingestion of organic foods. They are somewhat labor intensive, though, I find it easy to feed mine....by cutting off the flow in the reef, and placing chopped mysis shrimp and also sometimes cyclopeeze on them. They immediately close their polyps on the food and ingest them...but watch out for fish stealing the food from them.

The turbinaria will also take food in the very same way, but then once again, it's optional.

 

[LuvFox118]

When i first got the sun coral, I fed about 2-3 pieces of Mysis a day just to help it get settled in. Now that's its been here for a while and is actually growing new ones, I have been feeding about 2-3 times a week. They really dont need to be fed every day if you have an established reef as that wil provide some plantonic food.

The polyps were short when I first got it, but there is nice extension now. They are fatter and of various lengths. My sun coral reacts very quickly to food, so fast that my cleaner shrimp can't steal any food.

If you have a problem with food steal you can block the area around it from everyone. Cut off the top of 2 ltr bottle and place this around the coral. You can blast food in and no one can get to it.

Good luck.

 

[Gdevine]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10178293#post10178293 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LuvFox118
When i first got the sun coral, I fed about 2-3 pieces of Mysis a day just to help it get settled in. Now that's its been here for a while and is actually growing new ones, I have been feeding about 2-3 times a week. They really dont need to be fed every day if you have an established reef as that wil provide some plantonic food.

The polyps were short when I first got it, but there is nice extension now. They are fatter and of various lengths. My sun coral reacts very quickly to food, so fast that my cleaner shrimp can't steal any food.

If you have a problem with food steal you can block the area around it from everyone. Cut off the top of 2 ltr bottle and place this around the coral. You can blast food in and no one can get to it.

Good luck.

WOW! What a great idea using the bottle top. I've been mixing Cyclop-eeze with a small amount of trace elements/vitamins with tank water; I then turn pumps off and using a syringe gently shoot over the entire coral(s). Maybe 10 to 15 minutes laterI power up the pumps and any Cyclop-eeze in the water is dispersed for everyone else...including the Tubastrea aurea's.

Hell, my LFS where I got them said to just add Cyclop-eeze to the water and the polyps will get it from the water column.

I like my method better.