Cupramine - 4 Weeks - Still Ich?

[chatyak]

I have had my fish in QT for 4 weeks now. 7 cardinalfish and 1 Powder Brown. I treated with Cupramine.

The volume of water in my QT is always at a "line" I have on the glass and it's 31.2 gallons. Using simple math - I used a syringe and simply added enough cupramine to make it .5 concentration. It's been that way for 4 weeks.

All fish are eating all day and have been fine. Last night - I noticed the powder brown "flash" the top part of its dorsal fin on the pvc pipe - twice. It hasn't done it since nor before.

There are no signs of ich anywhere. I did see a white "dot" near its side fin, however it isn't the appearance of ich - it looked more like a piece of small fluff hanging on and it's not noticeable today.


So..... should I continue with Cupramine for another week? I was thinking of buying Quinine sulfate to use as a second measure after using carbon etc to clear up Cupramine from the water.


Can the fish scratch due to the irritation of Cupramine?

 

[trueperc]

Just trying to get something straight. You add cup ramie according to the directions and are assuming that your are at the right level or have you used a test kit to know for sur you are at the right level? This is very important. Also is there any rock or sand in the qt? The reason I ask is that if there is, you are going to need to a lot more that the recommended does as rock and sand absorb copper. This also goes back to the first, as if you are not using a test kit, get one so you can be sure. This is all from my own research and personal experience.

 

[chatyak]

Just trying to get something straight. You add cup ramie according to the directions and are assuming that your are at the right level or have you used a test kit to know for sur you are at the right level? This is very important. Also is there any rock or sand in the qt? The reason I ask is that if there is, you are going to need to a lot more that the recommended does as rock and sand absorb copper. This also goes back to the first, as if you are not using a test kit, get one so you can be sure. This is all from my own research and personal experience.

No sand or rock. Sponge filters and PVC pipes. I've stopped using the test kits. They are worthless and it's impossible to define at what point the color is on the blue slider for copper levels (at least for me). I can stare at it for hours and can't be certain what shade of blue it is.

I measure my tank's water volume and add the appropriate amount of Cupramine via a ml syringe. The same for water changes.

 

[MrTuskfish]

I think the proper test kit would be far more reliable than relying on drops and math. There are some possible variables. However, because the fish are handling the .5 level and Cupramine is still very effective at a level down to .35; I'd think you'd be OK. Flashing is almost always a sign of parasites, unless its a one time thing. If you're sure that Cu has been at least .35, (even after a WC); you should be OK. But I don't think there's any such thing as overkill (and, sadly, no such thing as 100%) when it comes to parasites. As long a the fish are tolerating it well, I would keep the fish in Cu for another week,assuming no more symptoms, just to be sure. Using QS may be overkill, even by my paranoid standards, but it can't hurt. Copper can be tough on fish, I'd sure give them a week or so, med-free, before the QS. Re: your question. I've used Cu on literally hundreds of fish and never suspected the Cu of causing fish to scratch. IME; the main symptoms of Cu intolerance are; loss of appetite (by far, the most common and usually the 1st), breathing problems, small reddish spots (rare); and , of course, the general ''acting sick & hiding". Just curious: When was the last time, if ever, you saw any actual ich spots? Also, I assume this is prophylactic treatment, right? Just my 2 cents; some folks will think we're nuts; but they haven't dealt with a deadly parasite outbreak in a bigger tank---that is a giant PITA. I think your approach, including an invert QT, is the way to go. This "managed ich" approach that is often mentioned, would ruin the hobby for me.