Current Orbit Marine Loop system - decent?

[Krchfam]

Now 8months into the salt community and have learned some expensive lessons so was hoping for some feedback on lighting.

I bought the Current Orbit Marine light with the "œLoop" system based on reviews which are sometimes difficult to rely on. I plan to have corals but nothing at this time as I'm making sure my tank gets established. I'm dealing with some algae issues and although my parameters look good and I'm doing 20% water changes each week, I think I need more flow. Have a 90 gallon with about 40 lbs of rock and just 1 wave maker currently.

So I'm ready to by some more wave makers that tie up to the Loop system but wanted to make sure I'm building on an "œok" system for now. I don't have budget for top of the line at the moment, so thoughts on this system?

Appreciate the assistance on this site, really has helped! [emoji1376]


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[mcgyvr]

In general the Current Orbit system uses lower wattage (.5W) LEDs which don't have the power to penetrate into anything but "Shallow" tanks..
So they are best for lower light corals/shallow tanks..

Light levels will be quite low compared to a more powerful fixture that utilizes higher wattage LEDs,etc... Even with their PRO units you shouldn't expect over 150 par 10" from the light.. Anything light demanding at all will need to be 6" from the light which is right near the top of the water in any tank..

You could keep what you have and add supplemental/retrofit t5 bulbs,etc... but then you have recurring bulb replacement costs associated with those..

 

[gtp0083]

I think I'm answering this correctly. You already own the loop system with the light?

I had the current light setup with the wave makers. Ended up ditching the light for an AI Hydra 52. But kept the loop system for the wave
makers. Power heads are relatively cheap to replace and the controller is nice.


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[Krchfam]

Yes. Already have one light and the loop system. So I could keep it for the wave makers and start looking into other lighting systems.

Or are their systems like the orbit out there that would control everything and have enough light for corals. I have a 90 gallon tank so I'm 24" to the bottom. And although no corals yet I don't want to keep wasting money.

Thanks again.


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[gtp0083]

I'm not an expert in this at all. But here's my opinion.

In order to get the control similar to the loop system you would need something like an apex system. I don't believe there are any other light manufacturers that have a total system control like the Current loop system. But it's been a while since I've shopped and may be way off the mark.

That's why I kept the loop system for my powerheads and went with a better light.

Been there done that wasted the money as well haha.

To be honest I had better luck with my Current lights than I did with my AI. That was more than likely user error. The current lights were easy full blast all the time. I never figured out the AI lights. Again user error.


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[Krchfam]

Agree, it's a nice system and I thought the lights looked good/strong. And there's also info on the web that says I'm they are good for corals. But maybe that a little false advertising if it's really only good for 6"

I bought an additional power head but didn't pay attention to the size and got a little 600gph one. (Hate wasting money!!!!).

But lighting is important so need to get that figured out . . . Without going bankrupt.


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[jeffchapok]

I'm supplementing my Orbit IC Pros with a couple of old, non-HO T5s I picked up for cheap. I'm not sure it's necessary, as I'm not running the the Orbits at 100% on anything but the blue channel, but I already had the T5s so I figured why not.

My corals are doing well. I do keep what little SPS I have at the top, but I even had to move my stylo down a bit as it was bleaching at the top.

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[Krchfam]

In general the Current Orbit system uses lower wattage (.5W) LEDs which don't have the power to penetrate into anything but "Shallow" tanks..
So they are best for lower light corals/shallow tanks..

Mcgyvr, - would this light be ok if I'm starting out with only soft corals? Don't really have much of a budget for significant upgrade in lighting, but I'm also trying to go slow with corals so won't be putting in anything too light demanding?


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[mcgyvr]

IMO money is better spent on one of the "black box" LEDS on Amazon/Ebay like a ViparSpectra/Mars Aqua,etc... 165W reef led..

It won't have the "storm/cloud,etc.." modes or ramped dimming but none of that is needed and when you have a budget its better to sacrifice the "fancy" stuff before you sacrifice on power.

Many soft corals will love good strong light..
The Current Orbit system is just too low power for me to ever recommend it for corals..

 

[Krchfam]

Thanks for the recommendation. Given I have a 90 gallon 4' wide, would I need 2 of these? Would you recommend one over the other?

I'm not as concerned about the rain/storm/cloudy settings because I don't use them and haven't read where it's critical to have with corals. The timer is nice but I can always just get a timer outlet. And those processes (even with 2) seem reasonable.




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[Krchfam]

And I'm assuming cheaper lights like the one below $99 which say they are 300 watts probably are just made with cheap parts?


Bozily Aquarium Lights LED 300W, Full Spectrum Coral Reef Light for Aquarium Tanks Lighting APP Control with Auto On/Off Dimming & Timer for Saltwater Freshwater Fish Grow Marine Tank


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[QuickxSilver]

If you are going fish only the Orbits are fine, I had 2 48" pros and most of my coral started to lose color. My tank was only 18" deep but it still wasn't enough.

 

[Krchfam]

I now have 2 of the aqua 165w LED black boxes. I have hung them about 12" from the water surface, can't go much higher because of canopy. Based on what I've read, I've placed the whites on 20% and the blues on 60% until the tanks is used to lights.

My issue is the brace in the middle as it's causing a shadow (90 gallon). Any suggestions on how to resolve this?

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[jeffchapok]

My issue is the brace in the middle as it's causing a shadow (90 gallon). Any suggestions on how to resolve this?

Do you need to mount them that high? I have mine mounted just 3" and I don't see much noticeable shadow from the brace. It probably helps that I don't have any rockwork directly below it either.

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[Krchfam]

I think it's more
Noticeable with the rock work right underneath and it being high there. I kept
My orbit in addition to the black boxes and it helps remove it. Just a lot of light I guess. Oh well.


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[mcgyvr]

Temporarily push the lights towards the center more and see if that helps.. It may not be the center brace but rather how narrow the optics are on the 165w boxes..
You can even just tilt them (lower the outside ends) to get more light sent to the center..

 

[BrennMun]

You can even just tilt them (lower the outside ends) to get more light sent to the center..

This is definitely what I think will work best.


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[Krchfam]

I thought about this but Wouldn't that then affect the strength of the lights on the edges of the tank? I only have soft corals for now so maybe this wouldn't affect the zoas I have on those edges.


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[cwschoon]

I put together a 125 mixed reef with the "loop" system, which just came out, wanting to save some $$ and only intending softies. The lights were not bad but I did not appreciate the limitations until I had had them for a year or so. They just don't have enough power-that's not the lights fault-and I have had 2 x Hydra 26HD for several months now and they are far superior. I also packed in the Current powerheads and have been running an AL Nero 5 now for several months.