Rodi equipment

Cruzersmith

New member
I trying to get a rodi system with at least 75gpd with a booster pump and auto flush. Problem is the only place that has one pre configured that I can find is out of stock. Places like Saltwateraquarium and BRS are having a sale on parts of ro stuff but they don’t seem to have everything necessary or at least I’m not finding them. Is there some other outlet you guys use? Amazon is also lacking.
 
I usually get my RO stuff from Premium Aquatics or BRS depending on what I need. But, like you said, both are out of stock on the pre-configured system you’re looking for.

I pieced my system together starting in 1990 from a 3 stage RO to a 7 stage RODI. So, if you get a base unit and your add ons, I can help walk you through piecing it together.
 
I trying to get a rodi system with at least 75gpd with a booster pump and auto flush. Problem is the only place that has one pre configured that I can find is out of stock. Places like Saltwateraquarium and BRS are having a sale on parts of ro stuff but they don’t seem to have everything necessary or at least I’m not finding them. Is there some other outlet you guys use? Amazon is also lacking.
I got my RODI system from nuaquasystems.com. I use it for the aquarium and drinking water.
 
So I got a 4 stage RODI from Bulkreef. My supply TDS when I last checked was 320+. My supply temp ranges from 50F to 55F. I have the equipment to mix hot and cold pre softened water to lower TDS and raise feed temperature.My question is do any of you do that? The total tank water is 34 gallons so changing 4 gallons a week will have little issue with the softener or the water heater.
 
My understanding is that you should not mix in hot water into your supply water. If memory serves, there are a couple reasons for this.
1. Cold water actually works better with an RO membrane, producing lower TDS product.
2. Membranes cannot tolerate a water temperature over a certain amount (I cannot remember the temp) and temp fluctuations from doing things like flushing a toilet could result in spiking the temperature of the mixed supply water thus, damaging the membrane.
3. Who knows what metals/compounds are in your water heater. This could actually increase the TDS being fed into the system and reduce the life of the membrane.
 
The reason I wondered is because membranes efficiencies are rated at 77F so I wondered if efficiency dropped at lower temperature. What about using source water from my water softener. Calcium and magnesium are removed and replaced with sodium, thus lowering TDS in that sense but is this better or not I don’t know. Also with the temperature thing the mixing valve has check valves that don’t allow changes in temperature because of changes in pressure due to things like flushing a toilet.
 
The metal in the water heater is a concern though as I know there is a sacrificial rod for tank protection if needed but I have no idea if it’s being used in my water.
 
I haven't really looked into this in a while but I believe, the 77F is the temperature the industry uses to test membranes against each other but, is not the optimal temperature to produce product water. I've always heard that colder water is better in terms of TDS and for the life of the membrane. That is why a lot of us use booster pumps (membranes produce less water with colder water) to increase the production rate.

There should be no issues in using the water softener. In fact, many have found that using one increases the longevity of your cartridges, membrane and resin.
 
The answers are here
https://s3.amazonaws.com/brsinstructions/brsRODI/BW60-1812-75membrane75gpd.pdf
Maximum membrane temp is 113f. My hot water is 140f from the heater. No hot water mix for me.
Flow increases from 42gpd to 112gpd as water temp increases from 50f to 100f.

I just use a length of 1/4 inch ro tubing in front of my filter so the water is heated by room temperature and not frigid when it gets to the filter. I dont notice a significant change in production in the winter.

I just saw a system with the options you want I think for $1700. I might have $700 in mine including the Hydros controller that runs the booster pump and auto flush. It also starts and stops it automatically. I also added 2x20 inch DI canisters and a second membrane.
However, my mind is pricing from memory and stuff costs 3-4 times more so I dont know what it would cost now.
 
I have an old Kent Marine 3 stage unit that I want to replace all filters and tie into a brs 4 stage and booster and auto flush kit to make a 150 gpd setup. Not that I need that much water but just to reduce waste water. I figured using presoftened water will help the 2nd membrane and the DI canisters last. You are correct that colder water rejects more salts but does reduce production. Was trying to ascertain that happy medium between those parameters.
 
Wondering if you have time to tell me about your hydros control system for making water. I was looking at hydros for ato and awc so it makes sense to include controlling the RO system.
 
Wondering if you have time to tell me about your hydros control system for making water. I was looking at hydros for ato and awc so it makes sense to include controlling the RO system.
@wvned I’d be interested in this as well since I’m switching to Hydros when I upgrade.
 
ATO/AWC is a premade form in Hydros programming.\
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.16.24 AM.png

Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.17.04 AM.png

So is control of the RODI filter
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.21.19 AM.png
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.21.40 AM.png

What this means is you plug in the appropriate equipment and tell the program where you did it.
Where it says Input is where water level sensors are connected and output would mean a pump for AWC or a Hydros control valve for theRODI filter and the booster pump.
There are 3 logical outputs I made.
ATO GO
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.29.11 AM.png

ATO GO is simple an output that is on if the RODI low level sensor is wet.
AWC GO is a similar output that says the NSW tank sensor is wet.
All systems Go is on when both AWC Go and ATO GO are on. This means that the AWC was able to make sure the tank is full before a water change and that enough NSW is there to complete it.
AWC needs 3 pumps I run from AC ports on a WIFI power strip. One for ATO fill, one for DRAIN and one to fill NSW back in a water change
The control valves for the RODI filter run from drive ports. The boost pump is on a controlled AC port.
Hydros turns on the boost pump and keeps track of the time and open the flush valve appropriately.
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.21.19 AM.png
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.42.27 AM.png

On the Status screen it looks like this. The dark tiles are off and the bright ones are on.
Inputs show the status of the water level sensors. Outputs indicate what the system is doing,
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 3.59.42 AM.png

It shows the NSW tank is above the minimum level to complete a water change. The RODI tank level is between the sensors and when it gets to the RODI Low level the valve is turned on, booster activated, flush timing controlled and water is made until the high sensor is wet.
At the top of the last screenshot is says Normal with a blue highlight. Next to it is No Water Change and Feeding (I do not use this).
These are modes. Modes are where you can change what programs run in that state. This is done by creating a new Mode and then there is a drop down menu in a form, AWC for example and you simply check what modes that program runs in.
So I can turn off AWC by changing to the No Water Change mode.
AWC is triggered by a schedule if the system is in. normal mode.

Hydros has excellent documentation that explains all this online and there is a forum you can join and ask questions if needed.

Other things on the screen represent programming to
Shut off ozone is the skimmate bucket is full.
Dose Kalk and stir the kalk reactor on a schedule.
Temperature, System pH and kalk stirrer pH and ORP are shown under inputs. Heaters is another output shown.
You can display graphs of data from inputs.
Screenshot 2025-05-02 at 4.20.35 AM.png
 
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