Custom Cabinet for 90g Reef (Build Thread)

[RedEDGE2k1]

2x54w Actinics only

2x54w Actinics + 2x250w AB 10k Metal Halides

My last bit of work this weekend was getting started on the moonlights. I say getting started, because I ended up calling it a night before I finished installing these. these are "R2 Dual Moonlights", purchased from Marine Depot.

Each unit houses five LEDs, with each one tilted to spread the light out over a wide area.

It will take some thought as to how to install these...I would like them to be centered, like the metal halides are, so they would cover the tank with moonlight nicely. This isn't possible, because I can't mount them near the metal halides out of fear of melting the plastic. I think I will cut some oak stock to fit in the mogul base standoff bracket, and screw the moonlight units to the wood. This would place them only about 6" off center, and away from the brunt of the metal halide's heat.

Your advice is welcomed!

 

[RumLad]

Well it's about time we got an update RE21K!
I thought you may have just given up, with all that hand sanding and turned it into a fancy workbench or something :lol:

As usual your forethought is paying off with a very professional end result. It should give years of trouble free service.

Cheers, now lets get a tank and some water on that beast. (There is still going to be a reef installed right? The better half isn't trying to staore the good china in there now, is she?)

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

Come on, only six days between updates!

In other news....I had to return the two 200w Jager heaters I bought from Marine Depot, because they are NOT fully submersible as the website description claims. Maybe some of their models are, but these are NOT.

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_viewItem~idProduct~EJ1119.html

When I called to get an RMA # for the return, the Marine Depot rep even argued with me a little bit....until I opened the box and read the instruction manual to him where it clearly states "CAUTION....do not submerge below water line."

Anywho...any advice on two good heaters for ~$30 each?

 

[cannarella]

I am a fan of the stealth heaters.

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

The 250w stealth is only rated up to 75g? Weird....

Will two be enough for my 90g w/ 20g sump?

 

[RumLad]

What temp do you usually run your house, in general? Your fully enclosed tank shouldn't fluctuate that much, should it? The rating is designed to raise the tank temp XX many degrees above ambient.
Seeing as you have those two mega heaters installed above the tank, I forget, are you running a chiller on the tank? If so, can you balance chilling with heating?
I think a couple of stealth heaters would be sufficient to maintain your temps., if needed.

 

[SuperAWE]

Very nice build. I just read this thread from the beginning and your write-ups were very good and inspiring! Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing everything in place and running!

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11165732#post11165732 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RumLad
Seeing as you have those two mega heaters installed above the tank, I forget, are you running a chiller on the tank?

I would stop short of calling the 250w halides "mega heaters" in my case, considering they are a full 12" above the water line, with an additional 10" or so of air space from the bulbs to the top of the cabinet enclosure. Compared to most mass-manufactured "large" canopies, my design leaves an large amount of air space above the tank, not to mention the back is completely open (where the tank sits). At this point, I'm not even considering fans anymore. However, there's plenty of room to integrate them later, if needed.

That being said, we keep our thermostat between 68°F (night) and 72°F (day). During these winter months, I'm sure I will need at least one 250w heater to keep the water temp above 80°F all night while the halides are turned off, and our AC is only maintaining 68°F.

I can't sleep if I'm warm!

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

Things are coming together...I'm making an appointment to look at some live rock/live sand from a tank breakdown here in Atlanta. Also, this morning I ordered a 100gpd RO/DI unit from Premium Aquatics, along with the VorTech wireless wave driver upgrade, 2x250w Visi-Therm Stealth heaters to replace the non-fully-submersible Jagers I returned, and a shiny new Mag-Float.

Speaking of a magnet cleaner, I remember three years ago in college when everyone thought it was the coolest invention ever. Don't mind the real reef rocks flown half way around the world, or the automatic evaporation water top-off system, or the marine-biotope-in-a-box sitting in the living room. Nope, let's all admire a felt pad glued to a magnet.

Financial update, for anyone curious has to how much a setup like this costs (and it's not even finished!).

The cabinet build (materials only) has been surprisingly cheap. Start to finish, $962. And I say that's cheap, because compare my end result "furniture" to the mass-produced oak "fish tank stands" you find in stores selling for $600.

I bought $634 worth of tools to get to where I am now. Keep in mind I started with nothing in my garage....so for most people, this expense will be much, much less.

$2,545 on the tank itself thus far. This includes the tank and anything connected to it directly or indirectly (RO/DI unit, sump, plumbing, lights, pumps, etc).

Grand Total = $4,141.97

The only large expense remaining before I can start the ammonia cycle process is ~135lbs of live rock.

 

[xcuter]

damn u are skilled awesome

 

[gary faulkner]

SuperAWE

[welcome]

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

I really expected this step to be one of the easiest, but I was wrong. I'm pulling my hair out trying to figure this out.

So....I'm trying to plumb my Eheim 1262 return pump to the bulkheads that came with the Perfecto "Corner-flo" tank's overflow kit.

The bulkheads are "slip x thread", meaning the standpipe slips into the top, and the drain/return connections are meant to be screwed onto the bulkhead threads underneath the tank.

The bulkheads are black, but there is no label identifying them as either Sch 40 or Sch 80. How do I figure out what they are?

From measuring as well as trial-fitting different sized threaded pipe at Home Depot, the bulkhead threads appear to be 1-1/4". However, using my hands only, I cannot get PVC pipe to thread onto the bulkhead more than 3/4 of a turn or so before the connection is incredibly tight and won't go any further. Am I doing something wrong? Is it supposed to be this tight so quickly? I can hand-tighten typical PVC connections almost half-way up the threads before it starts to get tight...that's definitely not the case with the bulkheads. If I use a wrench to make them tighter, I'm worried I might strip the bulkhead threads or worse, crack the $400 aquarium under stress.

Am I doing something wrong?

I'm beginning to think it might be easier and more convenient to just use a 1-1/4" flexible coupling with clamps, to connect the bulkheads to rigid 1-1/4" pipe.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

 

[grisha]

man awesome thread...im coming around the project identical to yours ...
and already have newb question! where did you order your doors?

 

[mlrtime99]

Grisha... page one of this "awesome thread" has your answer, not a "newb" question just lazy.

 

[Blackacid]

I've enjoyed reading this. Looking forward to a populated FTS.

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11171793#post11171793 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by grisha
where did you order your doors?

http://www.advantagecabinetdoors.com/

Got the four doors and two false drawer fronts for $154.50 plus $40 shipping.

Great, great doors. High quality, custom made to my specs.

 

[SuperAWE]

You can hold up a very short short piece of schedule 80 pipe to the threaded end of the bulkhead. Make sure it is same piping size as the bulkhead (1", 1-1/4", 1-1/2" etc)

If you can look from above, down into the bulkhead towards the SCH80 piece you will see one of the following:

1) The bulkhead inside diameter is the same as the SCH80 pipe.
**You have SCH80**

2) The bulkhead inside diameter is larger and you can see the outer ring edge of the SCH80 pipe.
**You have SCH40 bulkhead**

Of course a Micrometer would make it more precise...

But..your fittings should all work together as long as they are all industry standard thread fittings.

 

[grisha]

wow thank you veru much

 

[cannarella]

Dustin, are you trying to thread on to the outside of the bulkhead? On a bulkhead weather it is threaded or slip, the connections are female. You don't thread pipe on the threads that keep the bulkhead in place.

For the Sch 40 vs 80 question, a Sch 80 is massively thick. Here is a link to Savko's site where you can see the difference.

http://www.savko.com/partlist.asp?pgid=2

 

[RedEDGE2k1]

Indeed I was. Got my question answered through a seperate thread a day or two ago, I didn't know the PVC slips inside the bulkhead. Felt pretty dumb when I was told it doesn't thread onto the retaining ring threads!