Custom Cabinet for 90g Reef (Build Thread)

09_Center_Floor_BOTTOM.jpg


The tank sits on a solid piece of 3/4" oak plywood, which is screwed every 6" to every panel below. Before screwing, the cabinet was squared up and held square while the screws were going in. This ensures 90° corners, making the miter joints to be made later for the trimwork much easier. This panel also divides the "bottom" (sump and cabinets) section of the cabinet from the "top" (display tank and shelves) section, allowing the two pieces to be moved more easily....and of course fit through doorways.

10_Tank_Base_FRONT.jpg


11_Tank_Base_BACK.jpg


The front side panels are mitered at 45° along one side, to attach to the 45° cut of the outer side panels (below). This corner joint will not be covered by trim, so the plywood edges could not show. Any voids in the mitered joint will be filled with wood filler and sanded smooth before final priming/painting.

12_Front_Side_Panel_FRONT.jpg


13_Front_Side_Panel_BACK.jpg
 
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14_Bottom_Outer_Sides_FRONT.jpg


15_Bottom_Outer_Sides_BACK.jpg




So far the build has taken approximately 16 hours total, spread over one weekend. Today after work I plan on trimming out the bottom section. With all the mitered joints involved, that will probably be all I have time to accomplish this evening. Hopefully I can post more pictures tomorrow.
 
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Nice build so far. That thing is going to weigh a ton, but it will be solid. Is the top going to be able to be removed to move it? My 65 stand was a bear to move upstairs with 2 people. Did you check Rockler for custom doors? There is a store up on Roswell Rd.

Where are you located in ATL? Are you involved in any reef clubs?

War Eagle!

Andy
 
The final cabinet will be two seperate pieces -- a bottom section, where you see the cabinet doors, and a top section, where you see the shelving. The top section will surround the tank, and both the top section and tank will sit on the bottom section. The top section will be able to slide forward (no back panel behind the tank) and completely removed from the bottom section/tank setup when complete...this will allow total access to the tank without any obstructions, if ever needed. (read, when needed). :)

Actually, I'm surpised how much less it weighs than I expected. My girlfriend is 5'3" and maybe 110lbs and she can lift one end of the bottom section while I lift the other, no problem. So that tells me when it comes time to move the finished bottom section (the bigger of the two parts) up the stairway and into my living room, two men will be able to handle the task quite easily. It's 6.5' wide but only 19" deep; its really not as overpowering in person as it may appear in pictures.

That being said, this IS a 6.5' long piece of furniture made entirely of 3/4" hardwood plywood....it's by no means lightweight, but I can't expect it to be. Especially when the tank will be 36" off the floor and weigh 1/2 ton when filled with water, rock and sand -- that's a lot of force to restrain. I had to consider not only supporting the tank from underneath, but also reinforcing the cabinet well enough to resist any side-to-side movement of the vertical panels. This required using thick plywood basically everywhere.

I was able to save a little bit of weight by making cut-outs in the back panel, but probably not enough to justify the time it took to make the cut-outs. Also, I was thinking, the light from the sump will shine through those openings and against the wall behind the cabinet. I hope the glow isn't visible, but I'm sure it will be....and that will be annoying.

Someway, somehow, I'm going to properly ventilate my metal halides and refugium lights while blocking as much light from leaving the cabinet as possible. As mentioned, I want the top section to be able to slide forward and off the bottom section, allowing it to be totally removed without touching the tank itself. To do this, I can't but a back panel behind the tank (although I can put one behind the shelves on the sides). Behind the tank, I think I will use a dark light-blocking fabric, and let it roll down behind the tank similar to the way window blinds operate.

I ran to Home Depot on my lunch break today to buy a nail set -- I'll get started on trimming out the bottom section tonight after work. I'll post more pictures tomorrow.

I hope you guys are finding this useful or at least informative & entertaining. Sure is fun to build.

Take care-
Dustin
 
No, I didn't use glue. I figure wood glue will add little additional strength to 8x2" screws @ 6" on center.

That being said, now that you mention it, I'm considering unscrewing everything tonight, putting Gorilla Glue on all the joints, and rescrewing. If I'm going to put this much time into something, may as well not cut any corners.

Hmmm...
 
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Just be using plywood for the base you have eliminated any racking that could occur with a more clumsy 2x4 style stand. All the weight should be static and strait down. Unless you plan on rocking the tanks back and froth for wave action. I doubt that...

Yes you need glue. The screws are a single point of contact where the glue will give a permanent bond. It will be stronger then the screw joints. Never rely on the sheer strength of your fasteners for support.

Get Titebond type II or III since it will be near moisture. That is what I use and it works great. Check out my gallery for my stand.

If you are spending money on tools go ahead and get a brad nailer kit to make the trim work go real fast.

You are off to a very good start.
 
I considered a 1 5/8" brad nailer / air compressor combo at Home Depot for $190.....but to be honest, knowing a $5 hammer and $3 nail set will accomplish the same thing in the same evening, I couldn't justify the cost. Would be nice to have one though...but for me it would be totally a luxury.

I'm definitely going to disassemble, glue, and reassemble. It'll be worth the time just to have it off my mind.

Regarding wave motion....I'm going to use a Vortech propeller pump with the wireless wave controller. I'm not going to set it to throw up a 2" wave or anything....but it would be nice to have 1/2" of wave of so, just enough to keep the water oscillating.

Wonder if that wave action, over time, will weaken and eventually compromise the stand's strength?

Anyone have any experience?
 
Google Sketchup, the free version. It's invaluable for stuff like this, I spent probably 3 weeks designing/changing/rethinking/redesigning the cabinet before I had it the way I wanted. $0
 
Well I went to Home Depot after work yesterday for another sheet of 3/4" oak plywood (5 sheets total so far @ 39.99 ea) and some TiteBond III waterproof wood glue ($8/bottle). While I was there, a hook/pegboard setup caught my eye, and I ended up coming home with a 4x8 pegboard, 1x2 braces, and all sorts of peg hooks. I spent the evening installing the pegboard on my garage wall and organizing all my tools. It needed to be done...badly.

Maybe I'll have a cabinet update for you guys tomorrow -- stay tuned.

-Dustin
 
Nice looking stand!! I like how your making it flow with the rest of the house, instead of it just looking like a fish tank stuck in the room. I just found google sketchup and am using it to design a stand for my AP 24 and a 5.5 gallon tank. Keep up the great work and lets see some finished pictures as soon as possible. Jon
 
Yesterday after work I completely disassembled what I've built so far, applied TiteBond III waterproof glue to all the pieces, and reassembled. It took 16 hours to build, but only 2.5 hours to take apart, glue, and put back together....so I was pleased with that.

Thanks cannarella for the heads up about the need for wood glue. I wasn't going to use it, I was assuming 2" wood screws spaced close together would be more than enough strength to keep everything together. However, after doing a Google search for glue connection strength vs. screw connection strength, I learned the glue is much, much stronger than the screw connections. In fact, glue is stronger than the plywood itself!

Tonight I will hopefully be able to trim out the bottom section and sand everything smooth, ready for paint. More pictures to come tomorrow.
 
I was planning on trimming out the bottom section last night, but it seemed more exciting to get started on the top section so that's what I ended up doing.

I never imagined the front panel (where the tank is viewed) would take so long -- I spent 3hrs on it last night, and it's still not finished. In that time I was only able to miter the side edges to 45° and layout/cut the tank opening. It wasn't exactly difficult, just time consuming, because I want the maximum possible amount of my tank being viewable, while hiding the plastic tank trim as well as the silicone joints with wood trim built into the cut-out. So, some precise measurements were involved.

The biggest reason for it taking so long was my method for cutting out the tank opening. For the cabinet door openings, I used a jig saw. Jigsaws have very thin, flexible blades, and even the quality DeWalt jigsaw I dropped $120 on wouldn't make straight cuts, either up & down through the wood or horizontally along my cut line. It wasn't a big deal, because the cut line will be covered up by the 1/2" overlay of the cabinet doors. However, the tank opening cutout is a completely different story, as it will be 100% viewable and will also be trimmed out with 1/4" pine stop trim. So, any crooked lines will stand out like crazy. For this cutout, I used my rotary saw jig and handheld rotary saw (Skilsaw). I used the plunge-cut method, where the depth-of-blade lever on the saw is left loose, allowing the blade to move up & down freely. I held the blade all the way up, placed the saw base on the cutl line, lined up with the edge of the jig, then dropped the saw blade down and into the wood. I then moved the saw down the cut line, getting as close to the corners as possible. After all four lines were cut, I finished off the corners very carefully with the jigsaw. This method worked flawlessly, and I couldn't be happier with the perfectly straight cuts.


I also layed out the opening for the access panel above the tank, but at that point it was 9:30pm and I called it a night. Tonight I will cut it out, and hopefully finish the top section except for the trim & crown moulding.

The front panel so far:

16_Front_Panel.jpg


Sitting on the bottom section, for a slight feel of how the finished cabinet will look:

17_Front_Panel_On_Bottom.jpg


I've been thinking about the access panel above the tank...when I make the cutout in the front panel for it, I will be using the cut out piece of plywood as the access panel. I'll mount it flush with the front panel, using 1 1/4" trim to hide the seam & block light from the halides.

It sounds simple enough, but I'm unsure how to mechanically attach the access panel to the front panel. As far as I know, normal hinges won't work, because of the 1/2" overlap of the trim. Euro hinges won't work because of the trim overlap coupled with the access panel being flush with the front panel.

For clarification, here's what I'm trying to accomplish:

Panel_Closed.jpg


Panel_45.jpg


Panel_90.jpg


Anyone have any ideas? I'm hoping there is some cabinet door hardware out there somewhere that allows me to do this, without the trim binding with the cabinet.

Take care folks....more updates/pics to come.
Dustin
 
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That's going to be tough because you need the hinge to come out and then up... and then some way to lock it open. You may have to make some hinges. I'll keep looking.

What is the height of the top of the opening? I may have an idea.
 
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