Custom Cabinet for 90g Reef (Build Thread)

6 3/8" from the top of the access panel cutout to the top of the cabinet. Access panel is 1'-1 15/16" high. All 3'4 Ply. What's the idea?
 
I think you can use euro hinges. You will just have to put up a board to hold the parts. Let me work up a drawing in Visio. I can't get used to sketch up. I wish I could figure it out...
 
Thanks! There are some great tutorial videos on the Sketchup website. The program was taught to us in Auburn, and the instruction came directly from the online tutorials -- worked well for me.
 
Ok so I found this hinge at Rockler. The instructions are kinda crappy looking but if you look at the very bottom you see an area where it talks about the door opening outside the cabinet. I thinks this will work if you have an overlap with your trim. I would suggest on the top bringing down the trim so it just overlaps the carcase. Nobody will know that it is lower then the bottom. You could go get they hinges and use some scrap to do some tests. I think it will work. You will have to attach a 2" 2.5" piece of stock to mount the hinge to the carcase. Perfect location for pocket screws and an excuse to buy more tools... Let me know if this makes sense.
 
I'm confused...can you draw up a sketch? I work well with pictures :)

Also, do you have any info on the hinge at Rockler? Model number, picture, etc? I'd like to do some online research on it.

Thanks a lot for your time & help!
 
what about screwing some scrap strips of lumber inside the front panel which would overlap the opening, then use velcro to attach the access panel. it would be totally removable instead of hinged...

another thought... casement window hinges? the window (access panel) moves towards the inside of the house (outside of the stand) as it hinges. usually those hinges have a little notch in them to hold them open. the hinges connect to the sides of the window (panel) and allow the window to pivot as they hinge open because the hinges are not all the way to the top of the panel, they connect about 1/3 of the way from the top so the very top of the panel will travel downwards as the bottom of the panel travels upwards and outwards.
 
Ok so here is what I am imagining.
accessdoor.jpg


On the left you see the extra wood that you would need to add to simulate the side and the door with the trim lowered. On the right you see the trim installed but the top piece is no centered on the joint but is pulled down so it can clear the carcase. I think it will work. You may want to make a test piece from scrap to simulate it. If you don't have any scrap I have some of the hinges at home I can try it ouy on. It may be a day or so.
 
I understand that. But seeing as the bottom half doors are not flush, why not be consistent and finish out the top half the same as the bottom?
Seems to me that having that 1/2 round trim piece on the top half is not in-line with all of the other trim pieces he has made. Come to think of it, there is really quite a bit of differing trim on this cabinet project. Fluted columns, rosette bases, different shoe, door trim, and now the top cover is different yet again. Myself, i try to keep the trim as consistent in both style and material as possible.
 
I think it adds a nice affect to an area that would be baron if there was not a door or some kind of decor there. I think if he uses a very low profile trim it will look very good especially when it is painted. There is nothing in the area that is raised and if you add a door there that is, it will stick out literally and visually. The doors on the bottom are less obvious because of the elevation change and counter top that is there to break it up. It is designed not to look like a door. He put a lot of time and effort to design of what he wants and I am trying to help him achieve it.
 
I'm not implying that there shouldn't be something there. The door needs to be there. It's just my opinion that a door there would look better if it matched with the remainder of the stand, that's all. As for it sticking out, yes it will, but so will the moulding he's planning on using anyway. A well constructed door would be no different. But hey ho, that's why there are a million different stands out there, because there are a million of us :)
 
One other thing for the OP. When it comes to making the door cut-outs (or any cut-outs for that matter) it is sometimes easier to make the rough cut-out with whatever tool is handy, and then finish with a straight bit router and a straight edge. Makes for a nice clean edge.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10951268#post10951268 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cannarella
He wants the door to be flush with the carcase when closed. The only overlap would be the moulding.
Click to expand...

Like the ones I posted few days ago (Limited Space Stand for 75g). I used hidden hinges which allow flush mount and opens the door to 180.

Never mind... I've seen the picture of the door with the trim after I posted. Please resume your regularly scheduled program... :)
 
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I was able to finish the front panel after work yesterday. Here's a picture, showing the front panel as well as the "access panel" which is leftover from the access panel cutout. Still thinking about how I'm going to hinge this....I'm going to try cannarella's idea and go from there.

18_Front_Panel_And_Access_Panel.jpg


Afterwards I cut the top inner-side pieces, of course mitered at 45° to align with the front panel. The top panel was cut afterwards, is perfectly square to align everything, and sits on top of the front/side panels. Below is the result, sitting on the "bottom section"of the cabinet. Keep in mind the entire top section will not be attached to the bottom section, so it can be easily moved off & away from the 90g for maintenance/aquascaping/coral placement/etc.

19_Top_On_Bottom.jpg


20_Top_On_Bottom.jpg


I used metal angle brackets inside at the miter joints for support, since there will be no additional plywood/glue/screw connections at the base of the top section. Even with these brackets, it still feels fragile. I'm thinking of ways to help beef this up, without losing the ability to remove the top section from the cabinet, while the tank is full and untouched.

21_Top_On_Bottom.jpg


Here you can see my bad miter joint...thankfully I'll be painting the cabinet, so I can fill this with wood putty, sand, and paint. Hopefully it will be invisible when complete. I'm worried, however, that when moving the top section, the stress on the joint will crack the wood putty/paint at this joint, and an ugly hairline crack will be visible all the way up my completed cabinet. If this is the case, then I will attach 1/2" corner trim over this joint.....but I'm hoping it won't be neccessary. Time will tell.

22_Bad_Miter_Joint.jpg


That's what I was able to accomplish in 2.5hrs....tonight I can hopefully work longer, since I don't have to work tomorrow. I plan on working all weekend on the cabinet, and I think it's reasonable to assume I can complete the build this weekend. Next week I'll start sanding, priming, sanding, priming, sanding, painting, and painting. I hate that part. :)

Take care!
Dustin
 
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