Custom In-Wall 150 Project

[melev]

Bryan, there is a gizmo that you can hook up to your source water, and the sensor goes on the floor. If it senses water, it closes a solenoid and no more water flows into the RO unit. So a little water on the floor is all that occurs, but it should stop the floodgates.

 

[Liquid Hobby]

Bryan, there is a gizmo that you can hook up to your source water, and the sensor goes on the floor. If it senses water, it closes a solenoid and no more water flows into the RO unit. So a little water on the floor is all that occurs, but it should stop the floodgates.

Could the same thingy be rigged around the tank somewhere to shut off the return pump incase the overflow stopped or got plugged?

T

 

[melev]

A different device could do that, this one is designed to sense moisture and disables the flow of water in 1/4 tubing.

 

[corb66]

I was also thinking about putting the closed loop returns on the sides of my future in wall tank. I have never seen closed loop returns incorporated on the sides and was wondering why not?

Looks great and I plan on following this thread!

 

[melev]

Usually because people order the tank and think of those too late. I know of several tanks with returns on the side, and they are a nice way to increase in-tank flow.

 

[bheron]

Marc - I remember you mentioned that device to me recently. Its something I will definitely look into when I finish the tank and have the time and budget to devote to disaster recovery. The gadget I saw was just a connector on the end of the water outlet for maybe $5-$10. I'll have to check it out again.

 

[conda]

Also, I cant believe State Farm covered the flood completely? Did they know that it was an RO machine for your tank?

Yes, State Farm covered everything and then some, and this was the third claim over two years. The first claim was the second time I flooded the basement which ruined the rug. This last time was the forth time I flooded the basement and it destroyed the rug and walls--I replaced everything. The other claim was a tornado that destroyed the outside of the house, so that does not really apply hear. Never raised my rates yet either.

And yes, they did know if was the RO unit. They even tried filing a claim agains CoralLife.

I was also thinking about putting the closed loop returns on the sides of my future in wall tank. I have never seen closed loop returns incorporated on the sides and was wondering why not?

I never saw one either, it was Chris the tank builder who suggested it and I figure what the heck. After seeing it, I really like it and think it will work out well.

 

[conda]

Plumbing Starts Tonight!

Plumbing Starts Tonight!

Wish me luck, I'm starting my plumbing tonight. This may take a while since I have no clue what I am doing. I'm going to cut and dry fit everything before I glue it.

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Here are some pics of the plumbing material I have ready to go:

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Here is the Sequence Barracuda for my closed loop:

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Also, here is the sump pump I am putting into the sump hole in the fish room. This should help prevent my flooding problems for good.

Let's see how far I get this weekend.

:fish1:

 

[bheron]

Hey Conda, I just finished my plmbing, tonight actually, so let me know what ques you have. Off the top of my head, i sugges two things:

1) make sure you rinse all PVC after cutting it. i forgot when i made recent adjustments and now i have little tiny shavings in my water.

2) the glue i used set darn quick! I'm serious when i say it set within 30 secs and i couuldnt move it. in other words, as soon as you apply glue and push the pieces together, you have a few secs to make any adjustments before its rock solid.

Other than that, its a piece of cake.

Also, i've installed a few sump pumps recently, so i can hel out there too.

good luck!

 

[jarhed]

:bounce1: :bounce2: :bounce3: :dance:

Go Conda, it's your birthday, go Conda, it's your birthday!!!!!

 

[conda]

Other than that, its a piece of cake.

Holy smokes. Are you nuts!

I just spent the last hour plumbing one overflow bulkhead to the sump and fuge!

This is all the further I got, and I forgot to add the "hard to turn black ball valve:

I took it against the wall so I could clamp it, then I put a Tee by the intake of the sump and continued the pipe to the fuge. I'm trying to do it like Melev told me. Then once I got that far, I realized I forgot the ball valve, so I bagged it for the night.

 

[melev]

No worries. Nothing is glued, so you can cut and insert the missing piece where you need it.

 

[conda]

I think I'm going to bring the other overflow plumbing under that pipe in the pic. Then Y it into a 2" pipe, then into the bubble tower you made. All that space under the stand there in that pic will be taken up by the Barracuda and OM 4-Way. This is the only way I can think of doing it without interfearing with the CL.

I do have two questions:

1. Do the overflow pipes need to be sloped along the wall to the fuge? Like the drains in a house?

2. Do I even need to join the two overflows into a bigger pipe? Or can I just join them into the same size pipe, 1.5", then into the bubble tower? I do not plan on making the flow exceed one drain. I have the second one just in case one gets clogged. One drain should be able to handle the Mag18.

You know, I redid my entire house myself: drywall, paneling, roof, electric, drop ceiling, etc., but never did any plumbing. Now I know why.

 

[melev]

I like to slope things to allow all liquid to drain, but it isn't absolutely mandatory. If you can manage it, slope it. It only had to be a small amount, like 1/4" every 4 feet.

No, you don't need to join them at all. I've run it with them joined in the past, and currently they are separate.

 

[conda]

No, you don't need to join them at all. I've run it with them joined in the past, and currently they are separate.

If they are separate, only one overflow can go into the tower. I guess that does not matter.

Do you use anything on the ends of the PVC when you dry fit them, so you can get them apart again? I'm having a tought time getting the pieces off once I fit them together.

 

[melev]

You may need a helper to tug. It does take some muscle to pull them apart. And keep in mind, what looks perfect during the dry fit may be a little too short during the gluing phase, because the fittings will go together easily and deeply. So keep that in mind as you do the final assembly, in case you have to cut something a little longer to make it line up as intended.

 

[conda]

Another hour and a couple more pipes later, here is where I am. This is a real slow process, and all still only dry fitted.

I'm wondering if I should have bought a bigger sump. I don't know how I'm going to get these two 1.5" pipes in there.

 

[melev]

If you can't fit both, I have an alternative that you can easily make yourself.

http://www.melevsreef.com/plumbing/pvc_solution.jpg

You don't need to worry about the bulkhead, I'm referring only to the slotted PVC that is half submerged, with the slits above water level.

Or you can add an additional bubble tower using 3" or 4" PVC standing up next to the existing one.

 

[conda]

I don't think I can fit the option in there Melev.

The big problem I think is going to be after the Mag18 is in there and plumbed to the skimmer--that's if my replacement ever shows up from Marine Depot.

I need to plumb the mag to the skimmer and add a ball valve in case the flow is too much and I need to dial it back. So that will take up some serious real estate.

I think I'm just going to join the pipes with one of those Y PVC pieces you see on drains.

 

[melev]

I didn't think about that.

I doubt you'll need nor want a ballvalve on the pump to the skimmer. The gatevalve on the skimmer itself will let you adjust the water within the skimmer body.