Custom In-Wall 150 Project

I think you are doing fine. It is just an adjustable jigsaw puzzle, one that allows you to create the pieces as you go.

Keep at it. And remember when it comes time to gluing, pieces may suddenly be shorter than originally. You might cut things 1.5" longer than you expect, or at least have extra pieces and couplings handy.
 
Exactly what melev said. Don't give up, take a deep breath, and take a break! :)

Going with rigid pvc (vs. spa-flex) ends up looking much cleaner in the end, and most cost effective. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it. Now you know why most OM products are done with spa-flex... because those guys can't hack it! :lol:

You are making some great progress though. Keep at it, and the trouble spots will work themselves out after you allow yourself some time to think of the solution.
 
I do have some spa flex, about 4-feet of it, I may use some of it in the hard to get to areas.

I was hoping to get this done, filled, and some fish moved over before Christmas, but at this rate, I'm lucky I get it cycled by then.

How the heck Marc setup a 280 in 14-days is beyond me.

BTW, do you need a siphon break on a sea swirl?
 
Marc is a god among men. Mortals cannot accomplish such a feat.

I think what you have done looks great so far. Take your time and do it right... The first time.

You spent a lot of time and have chosen VERY nice equipment, there is no reason to rush through the plumming :)
 
Conda - I agree. I have absolutely zero input in this area, so I've been keeping quiet. But, youve got two things in your favor 1) Time and 2) Melev.

Youre doing it right - checking and asking questions as you go. Its the best decision I made on my setup.
 
My son is going with my Dad this weekend, so, I should have time to figure all this out. Plus, I may also get to packing up some peanuts for someone. :rolleyes:

Couple questions if anyone knows:

1. Does a Sea Swirl need a siphon break?

2. Are check valves any good? I saw one in home depot, it looked like a softball. Wasn't sure if that would be too restrictive. My power goes off alot, so I thought a check valve might be a good idea.
 
Checkvalves are great until they fail. And when they do, they do it spectacularly. I've never installed one in 8 years, and don't plan on ever using one. The ones Home Depot sells may have a metal spring in them, which can/will rust. MarineDepot sells the kind that are safe to use, but again I wouldn't bother.

You do want to drill an anti siphon hole 1/2" beneath the normal water level. So don't bother with that at the moment, because you don't know where the normal level is (precisely anyway). Once you've filled up the tank, you can see the spot. Then just add the holes, as I recommend two holes per return, to break the siphon. One hole works, but invariable that is the precise moment a snail has decided to park on that spot to get a nice pulsing massage, or the hole is clogged with algae.

Now that you have the holes, turn off the pump, let the tank drain and observe your sump. You should see less water in the sump this time, and more water in your tank.

The reason I was able to get my tank done in 14 days is because I decided I wanted it done and didn't let anything else get in the way. I know that one day out of the 14, I didn't do a thing with the tank probably because I had to work a bunch. But the other days, I was determined and set my mind to it to not stop until each goal was accomplished. Also, I know I had a couple of helpers coming over lending a hand at least 50% of that time, cleaning old parts or just holding something to be helpful. It was really a lot of fun, and I remember lots of pizza, snacks, drinks... and their girlfriends coming over. :D I think my not having a wife or girlfriend helped keep me less distracted. ;)

Years ago, I used to look at projects as overwhelming tasks, and dreaded how long it would take to do things. However, somehow over time a change occured, and I could suddenly estimate the duration of each project in minutes, and it was easier for me to get in there and deal with it. Knowing the installion of the sump under my 280g was going to take all day, the new one sat in the guest room for about a month. This was a project I couldn't do alone, because the sump was so large, and the old one was so heavy it took 4 people to put it in place. So I blocked out a day, had some guys stop by to help pull out the old glass sump, and I got under the tank and removed the existing plumbing to install the new. About 12 hours later, the new one was up and running.

Conda, you're making great progress and really don't have a lot to go. If you can't align things perfectly, use some spaflex in those particular spots.

Gluing it together will be quicker than you think. You might even practice with a scrap. Just in case:

Apply the cleaner liberally on the inside of the fitting, and then on the outside of the pipe. The fitting should have no white areas where the pipe slides in. The pipe should have no white areas and should have the final 1" thoroughly purple.

You do not need to wait for the purple to dry. Apply the glue to both pieces the exact same way. Press them together fully, then twist just a fraction (1/8" is fine). At this point, you may have some glue leaking out of the new joint. Take your finger and basically smear/trace the spot where the fitting touches the pipe to fill that grove all the way around (or as much as it will spread). This is just an added layer of glue, plus it makes the connection look cleaner. You could use a rag to do this, but I just plow on forward.

I always glue over something like newspaper to catch all the many drips. The purple doesn't wash off, so protect everything that you care about. The product won't hurt your hands, and after a couple of days your fingers will look normal again.

If you are assembling this in segments, you can sometimes look inside your fittings to see if excessive glue has puddled up in a spot that is reachable. This doesn't happen all the time, but if it does and you are so inclined to remove the excess with a rag or something, go for it. You don't want areas that can act as obstructions internally, so look for these when you can to make sure all is well.

Remember, the glue sets quickly. When you press it together, hold it for 20 seconds because the pipe will gently press back out of the fitting if you don't. Holding it keeps it where you want it.

And once glued, you almost never can get them apart. There are ways, but it is usually just simpler to leave it be, cut it off and put a new piece there using couplings. Couplings are cheap and work great.

Unions are a nice alternative if you think you'll need to remove sections of pipe. That may be handy in a few locations, but you better have a ballvalve above that union to keep the water in the tank.
 
Hey Conda - this is looking good! Where are your sump returns entering back into the tank at? Over the rim or through one of the side bulkheads?
 
Schedule-wise, I think you just have to relax and try to enjoy the process of putting it all together. If you have your sights on the "deadline" you may end up making mistakes or making some other sacrifice that you will regret for a long time down the road. Keep your sights on the goal of a nice tank, clean efficient plumbing, etc. rather than a time frame!

Heck, I brought my tank home July 9th and I'm just now about to wet test my plumbing! When I started, people would ask me every few days "so do you have any fish in that thing yet?" and I'd say "Maybe by December" LOL they thought I was kidding...
 
i dint want to drill a hole in my sea swirls so i let it go down to where the water comes out :) most setups i have seen use a check valve, but i dint want to restric flow since this was my only source of water movement, nothing else :)
 
Well, that obviously works if your sump is big enough! Seaswirls don't really go that deep anyway do they?

I am surprised that people set up tanks without a siphon break! Maybe they also have return outlets that aren't too far below the water surface. My first sump return outlet is about half way down my 180G, so I'd end up with Lots 'O Water on my floor if I didn't have siphon breaks.

IMO I would never want to rely on a check valve to protect me from a dry reef and flooded house. It could even be deadly due to the electricity and water on the floor...
 
My sea swirl probably will extend 2-3" below the water. That could be over 20 gallons of water, which the sump will not handle. So I guess I have no choice.

Thanks for the input.
 
Conda et all,

Just some more 2 cents on fitting pipes. I've done a lot of it and my friend is a professional plumber and gave me some advice once. Just a little insurance. Depending on how you cut the pvc pipes and with what tool, it may leave a burr or slight lip at the end. What he suggests is to take a utility knife and score all around the outside edge. Basicaly cutting a very small 45 degree cut that tappers the pipe end. The thought is that once you glue the pipe into the fitting it will allow more glue to seal the connection and prevent a possible lip or burr to push the glue down creating a channel or void (i.e. leak). It doesnt take much longer that usual and I've since put it into pratice and no leaks yet. Knock on wood....... HTH

Jon................
 
Jon said:
Conda et all,

Just some more 2 cents on fitting pipes. I've done a lot of it and my friend is a professional plumber and gave me some advice once. Just a little insurance. Depending on how you cut the pvc pipes and with what tool, it may leave a burr or slight lip at the end. What he suggests is to take a utility knife and score all around the outside edge. Basicaly cutting a very small 45 degree cut that tappers the pipe end. The thought is that once you glue the pipe into the fitting it will allow more glue to seal the connection and prevent a possible lip or burr to push the glue down creating a channel or void (i.e. leak). It doesnt take much longer that usual and I've since put it into pratice and no leaks yet. Knock on wood....... HTH

Jon................

Thanks for the tip.

Here is a picture of the cutting tools I started using:

tank_plumbing_01.jpg


The red tool on the right is like a vice grip. You just keep claming the tube and it pops off nice and clean. That one only works on the 1" pipe.

The gray thing, barely visible, is a tube cutter. I was using that for the 1.5" PVC, but it was a real pain in the butt and it would pinch the tube on the end leaving it raised where the rollers were tightened.

So, I went out and bought another red vice grip cutting thing (I have no clue what you call them) for a 2" max pipe. It was like $30! :eek2: But, it cuts quick and clean.

I also bought this round deburring tool that I may not need. It grinds the inside and outside of the pipe. But when I use the red cutters, it is so clean I do not use that tool.

When I'm done, all these tools are going back to Lowes. :rolleyes:
 
For pvc larger than 1" I use a cut-off saw / chop saw. Long as I can keep my fingers out of it I'll be ok. The nice thing about it is I often cut schedule 40 fittings way down where I need them in tight spots. In my experience, they still seal up just fine. After all, our systems are typically running at much lower pressure than a typical home. Think about what your pump's max head pressure rating is (zero flow). My pressure rated Sequence Tarpon pump can only push water up about 23' of head pressure at zero flow. I think my house water is above 50 psi which is 115 ft of head pressure!
 
Well, that obviously works if your sump is big enough!

my 210 drops about 3.5 inches so that is a lot of water,but like u said i dont trust check valves, so i got a big sump that would handle the rest of the water.

150 gallon sump
 
OH man steve that is a great sump. You guys with Tons 'O Room are killing me! I got two rubbermaid tubs :)
 
I think I finally figured out the closed loop plumbing. :dance:

Instead of taking the CL intake on an angle, I came straight down, then 90'd under the stand and 90'd down to the pump, then 90'd into the pump. I put a union on the vertical pipe going down into the pump instead of puting it horizontal, this left much more room. That seemed to work much better, alot of 90's but it works great.

I won't even try to describe how I did the returns. When I find my camera I will take some pics.

What is going to slow me down now is that my 1" pipes are not SC40, there are water pipes. Grabbed them in the SC40 bin, but they are not the right pipes, so back to Lowes I go.
 

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