Custom In-Wall 150 Project

I do have one question though. Look at the return pump in the first picture of my last post. See where the spa-flex goes into the pump? I have a 45 glued on the end of the spa-flex and a threaded end screwed into the pump. All I need to do is slip the 45 over the pump output and the return is hooked up. What I did not do is glue this piece, is this OK? Will the pump blow off the connection?

Thanks!
 
I bet the 45 fitting will be fine. Especially if it fits tight enough that you can jam it on there nice and tight. You shold just keep an eye on it for a while I guess. If it comes off, it will be just like if there were a power outage right? So just make sure your sump can handle it...

The plumbing job looks good. Gonna be a nice tank!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6556786#post6556786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
I don't understand your question either. All connections must be glued, or screwed tightly.

I glued it. Didn't want to in case I need to change out the pump. I should of put a union in there somewhere.

I'm going to fill it now and test the closed loop, then fill it all the way to test the overflow and return.
 
:eek: WE HAVE A LEAK ! ! ! YIKES ! ! ! :eek:

I filled the tank up to the closed loop only then ran it. Once it got all the pressure, the plumbing piece I screwed into the pump output is now leaking at the threads. See the pic below, you can see it. Now what to do!

It only seems to leak when the pump is running. I closed all the ball valves and now I need to figure out how to drain the pipes. I forgot to add a drain!

plumbing_leak01.jpg
 
Because of the ball valve over the pump, you won't have to worry about that water. Close the valve, unscrew the union, then unscrew the part going into the pump. Teflon tape or Pipe Dope (teflon paste) will seak that connection.

You probably should put a ballvalve on the inlet side of the pump instead so you can close off that pipe as well.
 
I have a ball valve on the inlet by the bulkhead, so I only had to drain about a gallon out of the union. It wasn't as bad as I thought. I'm headed to lowes for some teflon paste and a strap wrench--I can't get the ball valve union off.

BTW, I did tape the plumbing piece I screwed into the outlet, I don't know why it is leaking.
 
Make sure you do about 3 wraps of teflon tape on all the threads. Any more or any less could cause leaks. It doesn't have to be exact, it's just a rule of thumb.
 
Ok, took off the Barracuda and unscrewed the plastic piece. The tape was gone! Don't know what happened, but I did have three wraps.

I went to Lowes and bought some Pipe Joint Compound with Teflon and applied it to the plastic pice, screwed it back in and it still leaks, same spot! :mad: I don't know what to do now.

Anyway, I tested the overflow and return and that seems to work flawlessly, until I turn off the power. The Sea Swirl sucks down about 12 gallons or more into the sump! :eek2:

Finally, the overflow sounds like a toilet overflowing into the pipe. Not that I can hear it in the main room, but the back room sounds horrible.

So, I still have the following problems:

1. The Barracuda leaks at the output piece that is screwed in.

2. The Sea Swirl sucks down too much water when the power goes off.

3. The overflow sounds like a toilet.

:(
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6562676#post6562676 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jarhed
Maybe a check valve on the sea swirl, thats what I use. They are pretty cheap too.

I should have done that. I may take off the return and add one. Do you have a pic of yours handy? I know it is in your thread.

BTW, I tried to make a quick standpipe to fix the flushing sound and purposely clogged one of the overflow bulkheads. One overflow handled the Mag18 just fine--so I am happy about that. Now if one get's clogged, I know the other will handle the flow. The Mag18 is set to full flow.
 
Check valves are known to fail. I don't recommend them, and suggest drilling anti siphon holes in the returns, 1/2" beneath the normal water surface in the display.

If you still have a leak, there is a good chance that fitting is not perfectly round. You may have to use teflon tape and the pipe dope. The reason you saw none is because you probably wrapped it backwards, against the threads. As you screwed it in, you unscrewed the wrap off the threads. Looking down on the threads, the teflon tape should be wrapped clockwise around the pipe threads. You'll get it fixed, don't worry.

A durso should solve the noise issue.
 
You could try 8 or 9 wraps just for the heck of it :D
I have tried a couple of different paste type things with threaded PVC joints, but haven't found anything that worked well for me. I always go back to teflon tape...

Did you ever see this thread? This drain method works so perfectly for me that it is amazing. It is absolutely silent and bubble free...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=344892
I haven't tried a durso, but from what I've read they work well too for quieting the flushing sound...

Do you have a wet/dry shop vac? If I'm expecting a significant amount of spillage while removing a pump or whatever (more than a beach towel can handle), I usually grab my shop vac to have it suck the water up right at the leak. So the water never even hits the floor...
 
Originally posted by melev
Check valves are known to fail. I don't recommend them, and suggest drilling anti siphon holes in the returns, 1/2" beneath the normal water surface in the display.

I think I remember you telling me this earlier in this thread. If fact, I think you suggested two holes.


Originally posted by melev The reason you saw none is because you probably wrapped it backwards, against the threads. As you screwed it in, you unscrewed the wrap off the threads. [/B]

I think you are right here because the other items I screwed in, the CL intake and the 4 OM outputs do not leak. I'll try wrapping it again tonight--for the third time. :rolleyes:

Originally posted by melev A durso should solve the noise issue. [/B]
I was messing with this and my overflow is only about 8" high, so the water level went right up to the overflow intake. Scared the crap out of me! It was about 2" from overflowing. :eek1: I need to play with this some more.

My wife came into the back room and asked me if I installed a new toilet wrong. LMAO.
 
Just found this in my Barracuda manual:

"Use Teflon paste (not tape) for sealing threaded joints."

Huh? The paste does not work!
 

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