Custom In-Wall 150 Project

[conda]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6564869#post6564869 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
footnote: Just add more if necessary.

More? I used half a tube!

I'm going to try both now and make sure I tape it the correct way.

BTW, does the paste need to cure? I ran the pump within 10 minutes of screwing it back in. Maybe that was my problem.

Also, your sump is awesome. I didn't fill the fuge yet since I will be draining the whole thing anyway (to add RO water) and I have that Sea Swirl problem. I do wish I would have bought a larger one from you though. All I really need is about 20 more gallons to cover the Sea Swirl. But I'll fix it.

 

[melev]

:lol: Just drill the anti siphon holes. It won't ruin your SS and it will stop all the water from draining. Can you post a picture of the SS's outlet, so I can see what you're dealing with?

The paste should work instantly. If the fitting isn't perfectly round, you'll get a small drip / leak.

 

[conda]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6565177#post6565177 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
If the fitting isn't perfectly round, you'll get a small drip / leak.

That is exactyl what is happening, a small drip. I'm going to put extra tape and paste on it to try and cover the problem.

You know what might have happened. I screwed in the fitting dry to mark how deep to set it and I think the threads got chopped a bit. I bought a new one, but I need a new union screw too. Man I stink at plumbing. But so far, that is the only leak. I might just duct tape it. :lol:

I also need to trim my pipes that enter the sump, one is 2.5" below the water, the other is 3.5" below. This is causing some serious back pressure.

Here is what I need to complete before I can drain and fill with RO:

1. Drill holes and/or add a check valve to the return for the Sea Swirl.

2. Trim pipes entering the sump.

3. Fix the leak in the output of the CL.

4. Secure drain and return pipes with clamps.

Not too bad for my first try.

Oh, and one more thing. Not sure if this is a problem. Since my stand is off-level 1/16", the overflow sometimes (depending on the Sea Swirl position) does not follow the wall. The water in the first three inches of the overflow will flow over the wall and direclty on to the bottom of the external overflow. The rest of the opening will flow down the wall. Since the overflow is only about 8" high, it really does not make much splashing noice.

Just a note.

 

[jarhed]

Hmmm..... Melev makes a good point. Plus, the check valve undoubtedly slows flow a bit, which is a problem from my return. Course, all the right angles I have in there dont help either. May have to just sell that spare check valve I have sitting around.

Think I'm going to try the same in my returns when I redo my return plumbing for higher flow.

Your on your way Conda!

 

[conda]

Don't feel bad jarhed, I have alot of angles also, but my flow kicks butt. I have a Mag18 on the return into a SeaSwirl, and it really kicks up the surface. The whole surface ripples like the ocean.

My closed loop is even better. I have the Barracuda into the 4-way with two outputs in the back and one on each side. I really like this setup because the water is never moving in the same direction. The guy who built my tank suggested this setup and I see why.

It is like total caos in the new tank. I don't know if the fish are going to be able to handle it when I finally move them over.

 

[rdmpe]

Nice! That is one of my main regrets in setting my tank up. I should have had more holes drilled for multiple CL returns to do some flow switching. I guess I'll have to save that for the in-wall 240

 

[bheron]

"BTW, I tried to make a quick standpipe to fix the flushing sound and purposely clogged one of the overflow bulkheads. One overflow handled the Mag18 just fine--so I am happy about that. Now if one get's clogged, I know the other will handle the flow. The Mag18 is set to full flow."

-- Great Idea!! I'm gonna have to run this test too!

 

[conda]

Ok, I took the pump off again and wrapped it 5-6 times with tape and pasted the crap out of the metal threads. I then screwed it in until it was all the way down, cleaned the inside of the pipe and now it is running.

Keep your fingers crossed!

While I'm testing for the CL leak, I'm going to cut the pipes smaller that are entering the sump and drill two holes on the SeaSwirl.

 

[conda]

Almost two hours and no leak in the CL output. I think I finally fixed it! :dance:

BTW, how far under the water should the pipes be into the sump? I just trimmed the one and I think I trimmed it too short. It is just above the water with the pump off, and just below the water with the pump on. Should I make it deeper?

 

[melev]

1" is plenty. 1/2" is fine. The refugium outlet should be half submerged and half above water to let air breathe out quietly.

 

[conda]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6571492#post6571492 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
1" is plenty. 1/2" is fine. The refugium outlet should be half submerged and half above water to let air breathe out quietly.

Ok, when it is running the pipe in the bubble tower is about 1/2" submerged. The other pipe is about 3" submergered, I will trim that one.

Now Marc, here is what I have for the overflow:

How do I make the durso pipes to avoid the flushing sound? I only have 6" to work with since my overflow is not very deep. If I can keep the water under 6", that will leave about a 1" drop.

Thanks.

 

[conda]

Maybe I should have used thinner pipe, I can't get it to screw in the bulkhead with the Street Elbow installed. I should have a bigger overflow I guess.

 

[rdmpe]

Did you glue it together? I think for a durso I would try it without gluing anything to the tee. I'd just jam it all together. Maybe you can get the tee in and then slide the street ell onto the tee. If it doesnt fit tight enough, not sure what then, maybe some wraps of tape? You don't want it to suck too much air since it will mess up the tuning of the durso system...

 

[melev]

Those look fine, if you use the parts in that picture. You did drill the air holes in the caps, right?

 

[conda]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6577164#post6577164 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Those look fine, if you use the parts in that picture. You did drill the air holes in the caps, right?

Yes, the hole is now 1/8" but the thing is not working properly.

The water level is too high and it will fluctuate. I started the hole small like the dorso web site said and the water would go up, then flush down, then up then down. Now at 1/8" it is almost steady but high and dumps alot of bubbles into the sump. It also fluctuates about two inches now.

I don't know what to do. Should I make the hole bigger? Nothing is glued, just jammed together and the second bulkhead is closed for now.

Any ideas?

 

[melev]

How close is the elbow of the Durso to the bottom of the overflow chamber? Is there at least a 1" gap?

The drain lines need to be 1/2" submerged in the sump, or a maximum of 1". Has this been taken care of yet?

 

[rdmpe]

On the caps - one way to make the air hole adjustable is to drill the hole through the side of the cap so that it goes through the cap and through the pipe inside the cap. Then you can rotate the cap slightly to adjust the air flow. I have never had a durso but I have seen them set up with this air hole system...

 

[conda]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6580949#post6580949 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
How close is the elbow of the Durso to the bottom of the overflow chamber? Is there at least a 1" gap?

I have to check when I get home, but it is around 2" off the bottom, maybe more.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6580949#post6580949 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
The drain lines need to be 1/2" submerged in the sump, or a maximum of 1". Has this been taken care of yet?

Yes, when the water is draining it is submerged about 1". I closed of the other drain for now until I get this figured out.

Should I glue the pieces to keep it air tight? Could leaking air cause it to do this? I could tape the piece that screws into the bulkhead and glue everything but the cap and elbow.

Also, I did have a question regarding drilling the SeaSwirl. I took it apart to drill it and noticed that if I drill a hole, when the SS turns the hole will get covered since the hole will move. There is a pipe inside that does not move and one on the outside that does move. So, if there is a hole on this inside pipe and a hole on the outside pipe, when the SS turns they will not line up. Has anyone successfully drilled a SS before?

 

[melev]

I think part of this problem will be solved when you open the othe valve. You are putting too much flow through only one overflow right now, instead of sharing it equally.

That is a great point about the SS. I never thought about that. Maybe you could drill three holes (one through the outer part, and then three through the inner part every 1/2" or so. That way no matter where it rotates, it is going to hit the hole and break the siphon, even repeatedly.

 

[conda]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6584297#post6584297 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
That is a great point about the SS. I never thought about that. Maybe you could drill three holes (one through the outer part, and then three through the inner part every 1/2" or so. That way no matter where it rotates, it is going to hit the hole and break the siphon, even repeatedly.

But if the electric goes out and it is on a spot without a hole, it will drain because the SS won't be turning.

I might just leave it the way it is, I think the sump will take the water. I need around 12 gallons to hold the sucked down water. The overflow dumps next to nothing when the power is off, so I think I will be ok.

BTW, I moved the SS up with some shims to as high as I could get it. This saved about 3 gallons from draining.

Now I'm thinking maybe an attachment to the end of the output elbow just to raise it another inch or so. Then I'm golden.

I'm just too paranoid I guess.