If using dry live rock, first thing to do would be to pick off as much dead and decaying stuff as you can - a lot of it will be dead sponges. Get into all the nooks and crannies, and get everything off that you can manually with tweezers. You can then either cycle the rock in the aquarium, or another option that I prefer, is to cycle rock first in a separate container like a brute trash can with saltwater, a heater, and good circulation (one or more powerheads, etc.) You will get a lot of crud coming off the rock, depending on how much stuff was left, so that is why I advise the trash can route - less stuff to deal with in the DT. 3-4 weeks likely, testing for nitrate and phosphate toward the end. You'll could do several water changes during the process but these aren't mandatory, maybe some toward the end of the process. It would be a good idea to vacuum out the crud that comes off the rock and collects at the bottom of the can. You can check the rock often, removing more stuff manually that gets loose after getting wet/decay, and rotating it. Use the pumps to blow stuff offf the rock. Top off the container like you would a normal tank, keeping salinity steady, but obviously there is more flexibility here without organisms. When your nitrate and phosphate reach acceptable levels, you can add them to the display tank. Be very careful with photoperiod and phosphate/nitrate levels once you add to the DT, as adding lighting can produce stronger algae blooms as unseen organic material inside the rock continues to decay. You can add bacteria products at this point if you wish, but they will largely be a waste of time/money when cycling dead live rock, as you really need the time for organic material to slough and decay out of the rock - whatever you miss manually will just take time to do this. Bacteria products will perhaps keep levels lower, but since you need to wait 3-4 weeks anyway (maybe longer) - the reason to use those products, speeding up the cycle, is largely lost.