Cycling Dwarf tank

[mavl666]

I have setup a 6g tank for dwarf seahorses. It contains some plastic plants and dead branch coral for hitching and sand.

I didn't use live sand or live rock. The water in the tank is mixed from my reef and new SW I made. Is this all set now for add dwarfs? Do I need to cycle more? If so how?

Thanks

 

[timinnl]

You need a source of ammonia and a starter bacteria culture to start your cycle.

 

[namxas]

Dood...you started off a "sterile"-type zot setup and contaminated it with used water. The biggest reason for keeping zots in a "sterile" setup is to reduce the chances of hydroid infestations, but a single drop of water from another tank can trip you up. You might as well have used LR and live macro.

Used water does NOTHING in terms of cycling a tank. The bacteria you're trying to culture during the cycle are demersal/benthic, and thus, are not found in the water column.

 

[mavl666]

The problem is that everyone has a different opinion. On-line stores as well as LFS said its okay to use water from my reef instead of new SW.

Others state not to use LR because of hydroids / britsle worms and others state it's okay.

Unfortunately, I just added LR rubble to help the cycle the other day. This was advice from a reply person on a popular seahorse site I will not mention.

So now what. Tear and start over. sheesh!!!

 

[namxas]

Or you can deal with the 'droids when they show up, OR treat the tank with light dose of fenbendazole (Panacur/Safe Guard).

The only downside of treating the tank, would be the fact that you won't be able to keep any inverts in the tank, but since you're going for a "sterile" setup, it doesn't matter.

More and more folks are trying to get away from sterile setups for zots, but when I read that you're running all fake stuff, I assumed you were going for that type of thing. If that's not the case, just disregard my posts.

Here are the treatment protocols for both crystals and liquid...the liquid is much easier to use (courtesy of "that nameless SH site"):

FENBENDAZOLE (granules) Dosage and Preparation Instructions Hydroids
Active Ingredient: Fenbendazole
Indication: hydroids
Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard
Note: This treatment is ONLY recommended for Seahorse fry nurseries and Dwarf Seahorse tanks that
do NOT contain invertebrates/corals. (Nassarius sp. snails have been known to survive treatment).
Residual effects of this medication may make the tank inhospitable for invertebrates for up to two years
following treatment.
Dose at 1mg per gallon for light infestations.
Dose 2mg per gallon for heavy infestations.
Repeat every other day for three treatments.
• Purchase Fenbendazole granules available as 1gm packets.
• Thoroughly mix a single 1gm packet into 100ml of water. (100ml is equal to a little less than 1/2 cup).
Please note that the granules will not completely dissolve.
• This mixture will produce 2.22mg of Fenbendazole per ml.

FENBENDAZOLE (liquid) Dosage and Preparation Instructions for Hydroids
Active Ingredient: 10% Fenbendazole suspension
Indication: hydroids
Brand Names: Panacur, Safe-Guard
Note: This treatment is ONLY recommended for Seahorse fry nurseries and Dwarf Seahorse tanks that
do NOT contain invertebrates/corals. (Nassarius sp. snails have been known to survive treatment).
Residual effects of this medication may make the tank inhospitable for invertebrates for up to two years
following treatment.
Dose 1mg per gallon (0.1 ml per 10 gal) for light infestations.
Dose 2mg per gallon (0.2 ml per 10 gal) for heavy infestations.
Repeat every other day for three treatments.

 

[timinnl]

The problem is that everyone has a different opinion. On-line stores as well as LFS said its okay to use water from my reef instead of new SW.

Others state not to use LR because of hydroids / britsle worms and others state it's okay.

Unfortunately, I just added LR rubble to help the cycle the other day. This was advice from a reply person on a popular seahorse site I will not mention.

So now what. Tear and start over. sheesh!!!

For dwarfs it is recommended to use all dry rock & bagged live sand to start off with. Add a source of ammonia & bacteria starter culture.

It is all about the level of risk you are willing to take.

Here is a good thread that I wrote up. See if it is of any help to you.
For the larger seahorses species some people perfer using live rock and some dry rock.

On the dwarf section it is discourage to use live rock or rubble. If you desire to use it, then QT and feed them while it the QT. If something pops up you can deal with it before it goes into your DT.

 

[mavl666]

Thanks,
For the info. i will read through it first chance I get tonight. I only added the LR to seed for bacteria since it came from established tank.