dkeller_nc
New member
Oops - duplicate post.
Dabbling in getting reading a second attempt
- Thread starter Mikegray
- Start date
Ya I rather take my time and read and invest in good stuff than rush. I'm not set on the hydra. But for some reason I'm attracted to them. They look better to me. But I'm not 100% set and haveeeee to get it. And its also helpful that waterbox comes with them if I get the plus version. But I saw the radion has that lenses that snaps on that diffuses the light smoothes it out. I think it's the rectangle look oppose of the square look is what I'm attracted too. I dont know what it is. But I can definitely get either one. Both have nice mounts that hide the cords i believe. Water box did a 100.3 build with the 2 xr15s. I watched it. That was before they made a deal with I guess hydra 26s.
The website says 6095s up to 1/2 glass. And he confirmed they come with a magnet for 1/2 glass and come with the wide flow.
The website says 6095s up to 1/2 glass. And he confirmed they come with a magnet for 1/2 glass and come with the wide flow.
dkeller_nc
New member
Both will definitely grow coral. The radions just offer a way to diffuse the light field to avoid shadowing that's common with puck-type LED fixtures. That's one reason that Bulk Reef Supply went with a custom hood and T5HO and Kessil A360s over the BRS160 build that they posted a series of videos on a couple of years ago. It's also why Aquatic Life, and now Geisemann have come out with integrated T5HO fixtures that accommodate a wide variety of LED fixtures.
dkeller_nc
New member
One thing to further complicate your decision. With the Radions, you've 3 ways of controlling them (actually 4, if you count the buttons on the fixture, but they don't offer much control): plugging a USB cable into the light (comes with the fixture), using a controller like the Neptune Apex and the WXM module, and getting the Ecotech Reef Link controller ($200, I think). In my case, I use the Neptune Apex with the WXM module, and that controls all three lights and 4 Vortech pumps.
I used to have AI Vegas - these came with an infuriating little plug-in controller. But I think the AI Hydras come with a built-in Wi-Fi that requires that you have a wi-fi capable device like an Android or iPhone. It might work with a normal laptop's wi-fi, but not sure about that.
To really get the correct information, I'd consider calling Bulk Reef Supply. They will give you accurate information on every light they sell (there's a lot of them!).
I used to have AI Vegas - these came with an infuriating little plug-in controller. But I think the AI Hydras come with a built-in Wi-Fi that requires that you have a wi-fi capable device like an Android or iPhone. It might work with a normal laptop's wi-fi, but not sure about that.
To really get the correct information, I'd consider calling Bulk Reef Supply. They will give you accurate information on every light they sell (there's a lot of them!).
I have android phone. So it would work. But I thought about apex. I been reading about the apex for years. Plus. Roger mentioned I can sent the tunze on modes but if I want it to be like one on. One off working together like waves and going In opposite directions. Not sure how all u reefers run pumps these days. I'd have to get a controller. Plus i think apex has optional to test water electronically so I wouldnt have to actually do test kits constantly right. Apex might be a good investment.
Just looked up apex. Are you referring to the one system that's about 499. Then I'd add a salinity probe and then I have to buy the radion module to run the lights and pumps. Or does the 499 kit run the 2 tunze on waves as is? Regardless I'd have to buy the radion module unless I wanna just use the wifi that radion offers. I wonder which is better
dkeller_nc
New member
OK, so this is relatively complicated, so bear with me.
To run Radion lights, you only need to program them once with a USB cable. That's the bare-bones, set it and forget it approach, nothing extra required. I think this is correct, but you REALLY need to call BRS to be certain about this, since I don't run mine this way.
The second option is with Ecotech's reef link gizmo. That gives you wireless control of Radion lights, Vortech pumps, and now Vectra pumps from an app.
The third option is with the Neptune Apex tank controller. To do this, you need the Apex controller and the WXM module. I can't verify whether the Vectra pumps will work through the WXM module, but the Radion lights and Vortech pumps definitely will.
As far as what Apex to get, there's a $799 package that contains the controller, 3 probes and the controllable outlet & i-link power supply. The $499 ApexEL ("EL" stands for "entry level", I think). That controller is not identical to the first one - it deletes a variable voltage output (necessary for controlling Tunze pumps), the salinity probe and the ORP probe connection. I think the deal with this is that you can add back all of that capability later on by purchasing modules (in this case, the VDM module, the Salinity module, and the pH/ORP module). So lower up-front cost, but higher long-term cost with more wires and modules.
For controlling Tunzes from the Apex, you need a specific cord that plugs into the Apex "pro", or plugs into the VDM module if you have the ApexEL. The other end of that cord plugs into 2 controllers that come with a pair of Tunze pumps. You can then run the pumps through the Apex with waves, surges, etc... The other way you can do it without the Apex is to buy a specific Tunze cord that hooks a pair of the controllers together. That will give you sync/antisync operation - when one pump is running fast, one pump will be running slower, and vice-versa. You can, of course, adjust the high and low speeds of the pumps.
I guess this is what I'd say about bigger tanks. They're easier to keep stable, but since you've got a good deal of reefing experience, I doubt that would be an issue for you. The great thing about a big tank is bigger fish, and more of them, plus plenty of room to aquascape. The downside to a big tank is more seawater for water changes, much more expensive lighting if you go with LED (for T5HO or MH, not quite as steep a price hike), and possibly, a much bigger PITA if you're changing water with buckets.
To run Radion lights, you only need to program them once with a USB cable. That's the bare-bones, set it and forget it approach, nothing extra required. I think this is correct, but you REALLY need to call BRS to be certain about this, since I don't run mine this way.
The second option is with Ecotech's reef link gizmo. That gives you wireless control of Radion lights, Vortech pumps, and now Vectra pumps from an app.
The third option is with the Neptune Apex tank controller. To do this, you need the Apex controller and the WXM module. I can't verify whether the Vectra pumps will work through the WXM module, but the Radion lights and Vortech pumps definitely will.
As far as what Apex to get, there's a $799 package that contains the controller, 3 probes and the controllable outlet & i-link power supply. The $499 ApexEL ("EL" stands for "entry level", I think). That controller is not identical to the first one - it deletes a variable voltage output (necessary for controlling Tunze pumps), the salinity probe and the ORP probe connection. I think the deal with this is that you can add back all of that capability later on by purchasing modules (in this case, the VDM module, the Salinity module, and the pH/ORP module). So lower up-front cost, but higher long-term cost with more wires and modules.
For controlling Tunzes from the Apex, you need a specific cord that plugs into the Apex "pro", or plugs into the VDM module if you have the ApexEL. The other end of that cord plugs into 2 controllers that come with a pair of Tunze pumps. You can then run the pumps through the Apex with waves, surges, etc... The other way you can do it without the Apex is to buy a specific Tunze cord that hooks a pair of the controllers together. That will give you sync/antisync operation - when one pump is running fast, one pump will be running slower, and vice-versa. You can, of course, adjust the high and low speeds of the pumps.
I guess this is what I'd say about bigger tanks. They're easier to keep stable, but since you've got a good deal of reefing experience, I doubt that would be an issue for you. The great thing about a big tank is bigger fish, and more of them, plus plenty of room to aquascape. The downside to a big tank is more seawater for water changes, much more expensive lighting if you go with LED (for T5HO or MH, not quite as steep a price hike), and possibly, a much bigger PITA if you're changing water with buckets.
good thing once tank is up and running the Apex is something i can do while the tank is cycling and running its not something i must have before i drop some water in it.. but ill probably go with apex. do i really need the ORP. i dont even know what that is for water checks.. but salinity temp and PH is definitly nice... and even their auto top off kit or the XP one i look at is nice.
dkeller_nc
New member
Personally, I don't think ORP is all that useful, but you'll get varied opinions on that. Not sure what "XP" is, though.
On the auto-top off, I'm personally going to stick with the Tunze Osmolator on the new tank I'm setting up (Innovative Marine 40g EXT). I've got 3 of them in operation, and none have given me any problems in the 8 years since I bought my first one.
I can't say how common this is, but apparently a few folks have had some problems with the PMUP that Neptune sells with the ATOs, so I'm going to steer clear of that option for now.
On the auto-top off, I'm personally going to stick with the Tunze Osmolator on the new tank I'm setting up (Innovative Marine 40g EXT). I've got 3 of them in operation, and none have given me any problems in the 8 years since I bought my first one.
I can't say how common this is, but apparently a few folks have had some problems with the PMUP that Neptune sells with the ATOs, so I'm going to steer clear of that option for now.
what im quickly finding out, i will be having a crap ton of chords and control units..i will definitly have to find a way to make it super neat in my stand since i have OCD. or build something to showcase all the control units and hide wires/chords/cables. with apex and tunze pump controls and this unit. its going to be tight in the stand! lol
dkeller_nc
New member
Well, personal opinion, but the XP Aqua doesn't really offer me anything that the Tunze doesn't, but that's partially because I'm not interested in a solenoid to hook the ATO directly to a RODI system (an exceptionally bad idea, IMO), and I don't need the switched outlet to run a larger pump with a greater head height.
I guess if I was to consider something else besides the Tunze, it'd be the AutoAqua, because it has automatic water change capability built in.
Regarding mounting of electronics, also a personal preference, but I don't mount anything like that inside the stand. Warm, nearly 100% humidity with salt spray doesn't give me warm and fuzzies about longevity.
I guess if I was to consider something else besides the Tunze, it'd be the AutoAqua, because it has automatic water change capability built in.
Regarding mounting of electronics, also a personal preference, but I don't mount anything like that inside the stand. Warm, nearly 100% humidity with salt spray doesn't give me warm and fuzzies about longevity.
Dkeller_nc
This apex reading is making me pumped. Looking at all these cool cabinets made for them is getting me ready to make one with lights. In future. People are dosing mag cal and all correct. The apex has 2 reservoirs. I'm assuming for all and cal. People are just manual dosing with a store bought additive? I'd think they would have a 3 tank res.
Also I used to make kalkwasser and just gravity drip slowly. What are you reefers mixing in the reservoirs. Store bought additives or homemade cal,alk,mag solutions
This apex reading is making me pumped. Looking at all these cool cabinets made for them is getting me ready to make one with lights. In future. People are dosing mag cal and all correct. The apex has 2 reservoirs. I'm assuming for all and cal. People are just manual dosing with a store bought additive? I'd think they would have a 3 tank res.
Also I used to make kalkwasser and just gravity drip slowly. What are you reefers mixing in the reservoirs. Store bought additives or homemade cal,alk,mag solutions
dkeller_nc
New member
The Apex DOS system has two reservoirs because, for the most part, people dose calcium and alkalinity only and rely on water changes to keep the magnesium concentration stable. One can dose magnesium, of course, but it generally declines so slowly in a system (without water changes) that it can be ignored.
Having said that, there are folks, especially in the SPS crowd, that are firm believers in dosing - lots of things. They generally opt for the GHL, Pacific Sun or other multi-channel dosers that have 4, 5 or even 7 channels. I don't actually fall into the camp of "firm believer", despite keeping mostly SPS. So I use the DOS 2-channel, and dose alkalinity and calcium.
Most that I know of use Bulk Reef Supply's Pharma-Bulk chemicals and make solutions themselves. It's very easy to do, and they'll even sell you a kit with pre-measured chemicals, containers to put the solution in, measuring cups and bottle pumps.
Most that I know don't dose kalkwasser, though there are a few on the board that do. Part of the reason is that for SPS, it's come to light in the last 10 years or so that they are very sensitive to the stability of alkalinity in the tank. It's not that you can't have a very stable alkalinity and still dose kalkwasser, it's just more work. There's a thread on this in the Chemistry section, btw.
Having said that, there are folks, especially in the SPS crowd, that are firm believers in dosing - lots of things. They generally opt for the GHL, Pacific Sun or other multi-channel dosers that have 4, 5 or even 7 channels. I don't actually fall into the camp of "firm believer", despite keeping mostly SPS. So I use the DOS 2-channel, and dose alkalinity and calcium.
Most that I know of use Bulk Reef Supply's Pharma-Bulk chemicals and make solutions themselves. It's very easy to do, and they'll even sell you a kit with pre-measured chemicals, containers to put the solution in, measuring cups and bottle pumps.
Most that I know don't dose kalkwasser, though there are a few on the board that do. Part of the reason is that for SPS, it's come to light in the last 10 years or so that they are very sensitive to the stability of alkalinity in the tank. It's not that you can't have a very stable alkalinity and still dose kalkwasser, it's just more work. There's a thread on this in the Chemistry section, btw.
