Dales (HUSKY_1) 92 corner build

[Husky_1]

I finally had a chance to hook up my 2 part doser. I bought a Nautilis 2 from a local reefer. I had to buy the 2 line tubing, and the A/C timer adapter before i could get it going. I will have start off with about 40ml/day of each part, and will only pump during the night. Dosing at night will help keep PH up during the night.

For reservoirs I decided to go with the plastic breadcontainers, these have the perfect footprint and hold about 2 gallons each, so that means less mixing .

Here are some pics of the the ATO and 2 part. You can see the reservoirs and dosing pump on the right hand side:

another

Here is the latest FTS, taken today. I did a little aquascaping. Last week I took a piece off of the front top left, today I cleaned up the front center low area.

 

[chem-e]

Looking good there Husky. Any complaints about the corner bow thus far. It's been one of my favorite tanks.

 

[Husky_1]

No problems so far, i love the footprint. It can be tough to fit stuff, but it has taught me about spacially effeciency

 

[chem-e]

One other question regarding lighting. Do you think that you would've been able to cover the entire tank had you gotten a larger Lumenarc like the L3?

 

[Husky_1]

Chem,
I am not sure I would want a bigger light fixture . I like having the t5's, they act as great supplements to my MH, are cooler than MH, and are great for tweaking your color just right. If I went with something bigger there would be no room for actinic supplements.

Another bonus of having this reflector is that I like mixed reefs, with the single smaller 250 it allows for some less lighted areas, perfect for softies and LPS. Of course these less lighted areas still get a good amount of light. I think it would always be tough to get a full MH exposure over the whole tank no matter what, but I could be wrong.

If i were to do my lighting over, I would probably go with a Single Ended setup, mainly because of the better par. I would have also done a single IC 660 instead of the 2 retro kits I got from reefgeek. The only reason I say that is because I can only fit 3 lights and the 660 would run them.

I would like to see if other people have had good results going the way you suggested though. There is no reason, other than $, I could not change it out in the future if there are benefits

 

[Adam G]

Really like the new aquascape. Looks much more open. Bet flow will be much better as well. Looks great. I had a 92 corner about 6 years ago when they first came out. Wasn't set up nearly as nice as yours and was a pain to deal with. I think you have addressed all the issues. Looks good.

 

[Husky_1]

Thanks Adam.

 

[InLimbo87]

Congrats on the new baby!

Tank looks fantastic so far

 

[chem-e]

Congrats on the baby frag.

 

[Husky_1]

Thanks guys

 

[StashuDave]

OR 2500

OR 2500

Just wondering how that Ocean Runner 2500 pump is working out as a return pump for you? I'm setting up a 54 Corner and am debating on what return pump to use. I'll have either a 20 gal tank as a sump ( same as you) or use an oceanic sump (same size as a 20 gal tank). I've been debating over either an Ocean Runner 2500 or 3500 or a Quiet One 3000. I'm only going to have a large filter bag and a EuroReef RC80 skimmer, no refugium, so I wonder if more flow thru the sump would be better, I see that you have pretty slow flow thru the sump and a closed loop for real water movement. Can the Ocean Runner pump thread on to any standard pipe threads? I see you have a hose barb and flex tubing, I'd like to use hard PVC and being able to thread onto either 3/4 or 1" pipe would make life a lot easier for me, the Quiet One I'm looking at has 1" male thread that would be perfect for the check valve and gate valve I'm going to use.

Thanks in advance and I love checking on the progress of your tank.......

Dave

 

[Husky_1]

Hey Dave,
Personally If I were to buy another, I would buy something a little more powerful. I like to have as few pumps as possible and this pump is not cutting it with the Phosban reactor and return. I will be adding a UV soon, so when I do that I will probably go ahead and use an additional pump for just the UV and the Phosban inline. If that is the case, then the 2500 is fine, I am fine with the flow of the 2500 as a return only, but like you said I have a CL for additional movement.

I personally chose not to use a Quiet one pump, I have heard they are not so quiet and the reviews do not seem so good. I would go with a 3500 if the 2500 is not powerful enough. Who knows, maybe I will change out my CL pump, and use my 6500 for UV/Phosban and return Of course throttling the return will be important.

As far as hooking up the pump, I am not 100% positive, but I am pretty sure this has normal mipt/fipt connections. Worse case give AquaMedic a call, they were really helpful when I called them. I had to call them once about some cavitation that I was getting on my old tank with the 6500, and when I broke the Hose barb fitting on the 2500. If you don't feel like calling them, I know the manual is somewhere online.

BTW, watch out for trusting those valves, I heard they all fail at one point. You may want to use a siphon break hole in conjunction with the valve.

 

[ReefWreak]

Dale if you do decide that the flow isn't enough for the UV and for the phosban, I don't know how much flow you're looking to pump through the UV, but I know that a Teed off Maxijet is more than enough for 2 phosban reactors, so it might be fine for a phosban and UV. And they're $12, so you're not talking a whole lot of dedicated resource. And they don't put much heat into the tank.

 

[Husky_1]

Hey Erik, you are right, i will not need more than a MJ, I think a 400 will push it, and I am sure I have a 400 or 1200 sitting around. The water will be pushing serially through the UV then through reactor. The flow will be limited by the reactors input Valve, to a slow roll.

Really It just one of "my things" that I prefer as few pumps as possible.

 

[StashuDave]

Thanks for the Reply

Thanks for the Reply

Husky,

Thanks for the reply. I decided to go with the Ocean Runner 3500, I 'm going to use a SCWD in conjunction with my return pump, and they cut flow by 25% in my experience. Hopefully even with that reduction in flow I'll have more flow than I need, I've got a gate valve to help me adjust flow, I'd rather have too much and adjust it down than to have too little and wish I had made a different choice. And with the low wattage of the Ocean Runner Pumps, how can you blame me for going a little bigger than I may need. I'll continue to follow your thread for more ideas..... I hope my 54 looks half as good as your 92.

Dave

 

[Husky_1]

Steve, I think you made the right decision. Thanks for the compliments.

 

[Bernie21]

Husky, your doing great!! Another full shot would be great!! I'm going to heavily rely on your knowledge when I set mine up, I'm going to set up a 40" stand, maybe use the extra room by using a tall sump. How many gallons is you sump? Gosh, I dont even know where I would start. Either way, great job & thanks for the help in advance!! and by far most important, Congrats on the baby too!!

 

[Husky_1]

Thanks Bernie

For a sump I ended up having to use a 20g standard tank and had some glass cut for the seperate sections and baffles. My return area is very small, but that is ok because my ATO keeps it filled. regardless of how high you go, you will want to make sure that you get a skimmer that will fit your sump, unless of course you are going with an external skimmer. I cannot imagine going with an external skimmer, I do not like water on the floor when something causes my skimmer to go crazy.

Also, I only have about 10-12g of water volume in my sump because I wanted enough room for the 5g of ATO and back siphon from the tank if the worse case scenario were to happen, that is my float valves and return pump all stopped working at the same time.

 

[Husky_1]

Some updates:
Well I decided a few weeks ago that I wanted to start running UV. The main reason for this is because I want to keep a tang or two, and hope this will help ward off any ICH. I ended up plumbing the UVB sterilizer and Phosban reactor serially, using a MJ400 to run them both. I decided to not T-off the return any more; this was so that I could get more flow through the sump. Some people say that they see great water clarity differences with the addition of the sterilizers, but I have not noticed that as much. There was some difference but I think this has more to do with the increased volume of water flowing through my filter sock.

Unfortunately, when I was doing this, I also changed out my phosban, but used a bit more than last time. Well my acro's did not seem to like it. I did not get bleaching or RTN but did get color loss. The colors are starting to come back; hopefully there are no long term issues. In the future I am going to use about 1/2 of the recommended dosage. I would prefer to not have to use this at all, but I continue to have elevated P04. I really think that this is because of the rock for the following reasons:
1st - Before any live stock was in the tank, i was testing high P04 with about .5 ppm. Of course I did not test the new NSW going in, which I should have and will start doing.
2nd - I do not feed a lot. Until recently I was feeding lightly every other day. I started feeding more now that I have more fish in the tank. By feeding more, I would say that I normally feed about the quantity of ½ of a cube of mysis or prime reef. I do rotate feedings with Spectra Pellets, frozen Cyclopeeze etc. but you get the idea of my volume of feeding. Basically I follow the 1-2 minute rule with pumps turned off.
3rd - I use RO/DI @ 0 TDS for top off.
4th - My Nitrates are not detectable. If I was overfeeding, I think I would be registering high amounts. I have used the reference solutions and LFS tests to verify my test accuracy.

So basically there can only be two sources that are contributing, my water change water or my rock. Since I think it’s the rock, I have faith that patience will win the race. If I export more than I import the P04 will eventually go away so I skim wet, use Phosban, have chaeto growing well, feed light and blow off the rocks. I do need to perform more water changes, right now I only do 10% per month, but I am going to go to every other week. Also, I blow off the rocks about once a week, I want to start doing this everyday and changing out my filter sock every other day. I do change this out about every third day right now. If there is anything else I can do, please let me know.

On to the good stuff, here are a couple pictures of the newer fish. (The clown is not new, but he happens to be in the first photo)
Here are a couple of pictures of newer wrasses:
The solorensis, the male flasher and the clown.

Sold as a filament, but I think this is a line spot, what do you think? BTW, he is darkeer than the picture shows. In person he looks more like a magenta red than pink/peach.

 

[mg426]

You are looking mighty good to me, Nice job !!