Dave's Life Aquatic (180 build)

Thank you OrrG and ScarletReef.

With the floor done, it was time to get back on the stand. I didn't care how the inside of the doors looked, I just wanted they sealed. I used Kilzs in the center of the door and stained the edges. There were a few hard to get areas so I hit them with spay paint.

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Once the backs were dry I flipped them over and started the front. 3 coats of red mohogany stain, just like the stand. Red wood doors took the stain much better than the wood I got from Lowes. Cabinet builder must get a better quality wood than Lowes.

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After first coat.
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Third coat.
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After third coat.
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I put 5 coats of clear coat on the doors over the next few weeks.
 
Next thing to do was cut a hole in the stand for the overflows. When I cut out the back brace, I cut out 1 foot. I cut a 8x5 inch whole in the top of the stand. At this time I didn't know the dimenisions of the over flow box, I was just guessing. When the tank did come, I had to cut the hole a little bigger, so I could tighten my bulk heads. This is where I am at in real time. I have the bulk heads in, 145 gal of water in the tank, and a leaky bulk head that I'm trying to get fixed. I'm having a hard time because I ran my plumbing before I new the bulk head leaked. When I checked it again today, I still had a pin hole leak in it.

I wanted to back track when I did this thread so I didn't tourture everyone while I was waiting for the tank. It was enough tourture for me. I love reading the big bild threads but, hate suffering with the builder while he waits 3 months for a tank to be built and delievered. I will just torture you for the next week or so while I catch you up.

A few pics of the hole cutting.

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Next thing I had to work on was the refugium. I ordred a Eshopps Reef Sump RS-100 to use. Was on sale for a good price. When it came it had a big crack down the side. Fedex guy cranked the strap down to tight. I called DFS customer service and sent it back. At this time the sumps were on back order. A month later I got the next one, cracked down the side in the same place as the other one. The crack was about 4 inches long. At this time I order some weld on from eplastics and used my extra peace of acrylic to fix the sump. I can't blame DFS for what I think the fedex guy was doing. When my light came, the fedex guy had it straped to the side of the truck so tight that the box was almost bent in half. When he released the strap it fell forward in the truck and all the fedex guy said was, "O- I didn't even realize the box said fragil on it."

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I used a liquedy glue to seal the crack itself and then used 1/4 inch acrylic to reinforce the crack, sealed by weld on 3 or 4, can't remember. When I did a water test, the crack seemed fine. It didn't grow at all. I also put a one inch bulkhead in the side for a return back to the sump. I reinforded the where the hole was going with another piece of acrylic (the piece you see on the left in the pic. With the bulk head so high, later I do a little more reinforcing of the refugium.
 
April 2010. Time to bring in the stand. I pick up one end of the stand and had my wife slide boards under it until I could get the jack under it. I used the jack to get it up higher, so I could get my rollers under it.

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I rolled it to the front door but couldn't get the angle on it to get it over the thresh hold. I wheeled it back to the garage. I called a friend the next day and he helped me get it in.

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I bought some hole cutting bits for my drill and drilled the refugium for a one inch bulk head.

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I made a little stand out of left over wood for the refugium to sit on. To get the drain over the sump I only have a few inches above the refugium. Plenty of room for the light but not enough room to get my hand in the refugium to work on it. After a few days of thinking I hand a new idea for the refugium stand and ordered some heavy duty slides rated for 200 lbs. Here is how the stand looked until I got my new parts in.

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I bought a CPR 24 watt Refugium light and mounted it in the frame of the stand. I think i'm going to need another light too. I have a 60 watt plant light, but it puts out a lot of heat. Might have to get another 24 watt CPR.

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I dremeled out the doors so I could put the hinges on. If I new I was going to get these kind of hinges I would of had the doors pre drilled.

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I used a few pieces of wood to put under the doors to make sure they were all level.

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The drawl slides came and I put together a stand for the sump. I wasn't happy with it so I took it apart, drew up a new design, and put it together again.

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When I picked up my tank, I was talking to Eddie from CADlights, telling him about the sump and refugium. He told me that they have made tanks where the whole tank can slide over so they can work on the pumps and filters. He said the one problem they run into is the bearings rusting. I will probrable have this problem too. This is the only thing under my tank I can't seal.

I painted the stand black and bought 4 braces to hold the stand down.

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This will give me plenty of room to work on the refugium. I made two removable legs for the stand when it is pulled out. I think it would be fine without them, but I would rather be on the safe side. I added some more reinforcement to refugium because I plan on running a higher water level in it than it is suppost to have. I will back track later and show you what I did to it.
 
Before the tank came I wanted to upgrade my ro/di. I have had this one for about 5 years. I added the di on to it a year ago. It does 35 gpd. Never had a tds meter.

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I ordered another di add on, an add on canister, new filters and 50 gpd membrain, 50 gpd flow restrictor, 20 feet of hose, y spliter, deul tds meter, and stocked up on di resin.

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I bought two 34 gal Brute trash cans from Lowes. I put the y spliter in the laundry room, drill a hole in the wall to run the tubeing through, and mounted the the ro/di in the garage. I put a bulkhead in one of the trash cans so when it fills up, it drains into the other. I ran the drain out the back door into a planter. I'm getting a reading of 1 tds before the di and 0 after.

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Some times its nice to just relax.

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5-18-2010. Took a trip to Ontario with my dad to pick up the tank. Its about a 45 min drive from the house. Tank ways about 400 pounds. Called to of my friends to give us a hand getting it into the house. When we got to the door we couldn't all fit through. My two friends carried it through and put it on the stand. I felt bad calling them over to help and then watching them do it for me.



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Nice setup. Good documentation and good read. Always interesting to hear what others are doing to get ideas for my one day big tank.
 
Thank you kato12. I like to keep things simple when documenting. If I don't do this I will forget what happened over the year. It will be nice to always know how long it took to do things and what a pain in the butt the ride has been. I also like to look at the pics in other peoples threads. They make the build threads easier to understand, imo.

I'm still working on the leaky bulkhead today. Only had a pin hole drip in the morning. I will have it sealed by the end of the day. Getting ready to take a swim in the tank in a few minutes to finish it up.

TonyV, the tank was made by CADlights and ordered through them too. 72x24x24, half inch thick starfire glass. If these were the inside dimensions the tank would hold 179.5 gal. With the thick glass needed to have it rimless and the overflow box, the tank holds 140 gal, tank and overflow filled up to standpipes is 143 gal. I put my water in using 5 gal sparklets jugs so I could get an acuate measurment. My arms got tired. Filled it up over 3 days and now when I work in the overflow I have to get in the tank and get wet.
 
The electrical panel on the left, in some of the pics, is not going to be be used. I have a friend that is an electician and after talking to him we are going to run 20 amp braker into 3 gfci recepticals, and then run 6 surge protected power strips. The panel I build didn't have surge protection. I will use 6 power strips to keep the minimal pluged into each. I will have to buy the 20 amp power strips.

I stared working on the plumbing before the tank came. I didn't know how much room I was going to have in the overflow so I went with two different style stand pipes. One is a hofer gurgle buster and the other is compact durso.

I used 3/4 inch lock-line for the returnes. I'm not going to use the check valves.

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After I put them together I spray painted the taps black to match the rest of the tank. The piece in the second to last pic slides around piece in the last pic. The water flows over the top and through the holes.
 
Finaly got the bulk head sealed. Now I have a drip in one of the lines underneath. This will be an easy fix.

The other day my pink brain got hungry and at one of my snails.

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Final thought on refugium before it went under the tank. I didn't want the refugium to bow. It's going to hold a lot more water than it is suposed to.

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I added the diagnal piece in the middle a few months before after the leak test. This will keep the water flowing through the bubble trap and not over the baffel. I euro braced the bottom left chamber, this is where the 6 inch sand bed is going. I cut the triangals on the other side for suport, and resealed all the other joints on the tank.

I used some of my old sand that had been in the back yard to fill up the chambers. I cleaned it first. This took a few days. I put a small jar of Miraclel Mud on top. I know this wont do to much, but it can't hurt either.

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Next I cut the egg crate to fit inside the euro brace in the bottom of the tank.

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I cut down the lenght of the lock-line and put the 1 inch bulk heads through the back glass.

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I put the 1 1/2 inch bulkheads in the over flow.

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And of course I didn't have room to tighten the nuts onto the bulkhead. Moved tank over with suction cups. Tank is heavy. I drilled the sides of the opening on the stand a little bigger.

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I put the drains together in the garage. Inch and a half pipe that goes down to one inch tubeing. The inside of the barb fitting is 3/4 of an inch. I'm going to pull a full syphon with the durso. I should be fine. I think I will be pumping between 1250 and 1300 gph through the overflow.

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For lights I'm running the 72" Current Nova Extreme Pro and I'm going to Garilla Glue 3 Power Brites to the front of it.

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I still have one to glue on.

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This is a shot of the back of the light, overflow, and the euro brace.

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At this time everyone is cought up. I have a few things I can still go back to, but nothing to important. At this time I a little over 3 grand into the build. I'm glad I already have all of my live rock.

I have the tank and sump filled up with ro/di water and ran a leak test. Every thing was great. Better than 3 days ago.

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I could of started a thread called, "What is the dumbest thing you ever did to seal a leaky bulkhead," and then maybe I wouldn't be embaresed with the things I tried.
 
Tank looks great so far, can't wait to see the finished product.

Why did you put the egg crate on the bottom of the tank?
 
Very inspiring build thread, great job! Only thing I saw is will you be able to fit the skimmer in there with the height? lol
 
Thank you everyone for your comments. I'm going to put my live rock right on top of the egg crate. I don't want to put it right on the glass. I know puting it on the glass wont hurt any thing, but in my head this will help distribute the weight evenly over the bottom of the tank and protect the glass a little. Once aquascaped, I will put 170 lbs of sand in the tank.

Brando457, scared me for a second. I had to go look, even though I've measured 20 times. I'm going to run my Acua C 180. I had to build a stand out of some egg crate, for the skimmer, so will be high enough. I will have no problem.
 
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