Did something stupid... Need help

wii64brawl

New member
So long story short, there was a small fracture in the lid of my phosban reactor and it was dripping. Covered it with superglue, and voila, problem solved.

Well, apparently, a good amount of glue dripped over the seal and now the lid is glued to the reactor. I tried using an exacto knife to cut through, but that didn't work. And I would think acetone would eat through the plastic.

Any ideas? Or am I screwed?
 
Superglue works by melting the plastic together, creating a bond. Everything I can think of that would melt that bond would destroy the plastic, too.

Not much help, I realize, but at least it's confirmation. Unless anyone else can think of something.
 
I suspect you will just have to use brute force and hope for the best. It's likely chemically welded at this point. Sometimes glue doesn't hold all that great so maybe you will get lucky.
 
Super glue doesn't weld plastic together, ever try gluing egg crate or acrylic? Doesn't hold well. I would try two strap wrenches (the ones with the rubber straps). You can get them at Lowe's for about ten bucks for two. I think the twisting, shearing force will break the bond free.
 
from super glue website:

Removing Super Glue

Super Glue is renowned the world over for the strength of its bonds, its versatility of use, and easy application. Whether a hole needs a seal or a crack needs repairing, Super Glue is the first thing that craftspersons, hobbyists, and contractors use for all their construction or repair needs.

Because Super Glue is so strong and bonds so fast, some people may find that they have accidentally glued two fingers together, or found that that small piece of balsa wood or plastic from a model they were building has completely bonded to their skin! Not to worry, for even though Super Glue is incredibly strong, it has one weakness: acetone.

Acetone is often found in household nail polish remover, and a small amount on the end of a Q-tip or cotton swab applied directly to the glue should dissolve the bond without damaging the skin. Be very cautious in gently peeling the skin apart as in removing a bandage from the skin; pulling the skin apart may rip the skin! Read the label to make sure that the remover actually contains acetone, as more and more manufacturers are turning away from the chemical because of the growing popularity of acrylic nails (which are loosened by acetone).

Be careful - straight acetone will discolor a number of fabrics and can mar the finish of laminated counter tops (mainly the darker colored ones). Straight Acetone defats the skin; wash with soap and water after use and apply hand lotion to replenish the skin and remove any dryness effects. Use acetone sparingly and cautiously with these tips in the following situations:

Clothing/Fabrics
Use acetone and an old toothbrush, reapplying the acetone a number of times and brushing to remove it layer-by-layer. Work on outside and then on inside. May not come off entirely.
Counters, tables, floors, etc.
Use acetone to soften glue and then start working at the glue. Brush, scrape, shave, peel, sand or whatever mechanical means is available to work the glue off. Reapply acetone and continue to work at the glue.
Glass
Standard Super Glue is not recommended to be used for glass bonding applications. If bonded, soak in water until parts come apart.
The best suggestion is to properly cover your work area with metal foil before use - and always work with Super Glue and other adhesives in a well-ventilated area!

Should Super Glue bond to any body part where acetone should not be applied, such as the lips or eyes, the following steps will help you get out of any sticky situation!

Skin
Immerse bonded areas in warm, soapy water. Peel or roll skin apart; a spatula or teaspoon handle or even a pencil will help. Remove cured adhesive with warm, soapy water (may take several applications). Fingernail polish remover with an acetone base has also been successful for removal of cured adhesive from skin.
Lips
If lips are accidentally stuck together, apply a generous amount of warm water and encourage maximum wetting and pressure from saliva from inside the mouth. Peel or roll (do not pull) lips apart. It is almost impossible to swallow the adhesive as a liquid. The adhesive solidifies upon contact with saliva (moisture) and could adhere to the inside of the mouth. Saliva will lift the adhesive in 1-2 days, avoid swallowing the adhesive after detachment.
Eyelid
In the event that eyelids are stuck together or bonded to the eyeball, wash thoroughly with warm water and apply a gauze patch. The eye will open without further action within 1-4 days. To our knowledge there has never been a documented case of adhesive in the eye causing permanent damage. Do not try to force eyes open.
Eyeball
The adhesive will attach itself to the eye protein and will disassociate from it over time, usually within several hours. Periods of weeping and double vision may be experienced until clearance is achieved. Use of water to wash eyes repeatedly may assist in aiding more rapid removal of the adhesive.
WE SUGGEST THAT ALL INCIDENTS OF EYE EXPOSURE TO CYANOACRYLATE ADHESIVE (SUPER GLUE) BE DISCUSSED WITH A PHYSICIAN.
 
Don't attempt to use acetone on your Phosban reactor, or any acrylic plastic part. Acetone and concentrated alcohols (like everclear or 70% isopropanol) will damage the plastic. Even if the solvent doesn't directly melt the plastic, it will "craze" it - you will get tiny cracks in the plastic (the amount of which will depend on the exposure time).

Best bet is to attempt to break the seal with mechanical force - the two strap wrenches previously mentioned is probably the best bet, but you could also use an appropriately sized jar lid wrench from the grocery store.
 
From someone that does modelling for a living;

I handle super glue about 8 hours a day, so I'm pretty well versed in all of the evils it can entail.

The rubber strap wrenches would work, but as with all tools, get continually shittier as you progress lower in price ranges. Unless you used an entire bottle of glue, you should be able to put your man pants on and twist it off with some elbow grease. THIS IS THE BEST OPTION. 9 times out of 10, your grip will fail before you can actually damage the item.

Acetone should be a last case scenario, using it will have the adverse affect of expanding the crack your lid already has. Since the lid is cracked in the first place, you might not be far from it entirely breaking, and should probably consider this a sign to replace it.

Either way, good luck to you!
 
Well thanks for all the help. I found a nice deal for a new used one with some extras for 35$ shipped. Didn't want to buy wrenches and have the crack possibly spread, so I thought it best to replace.
 
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