Die All Ready!!!!!

[dh350twin]

I bought an achilles tang from my fish guy,he quarantined it for 7 days.I brought it home and acclimated him better then i usually do sine ive been told there are very hard to keep.Ist week he just kept to himself ,i never seen him eat?Week 2 i noticed ich developing on him especially at night.

I immediately starting to slowly raise the temperature to 87 degrees and lower the salinity to 1.015...and started dipping there food in garlic.Formula 2 and NORI.

During the day all was well after a few days i even saw the achilles nipping on the NORI(yeah).

Well i know i need to do a water change but what else is there to do to get rid of the ich so i can add my next fish.

 

[unbreakable]

hyposalinity in a seperate aquarium that has already been cycled, large enough for all the fish, no live rock, or sand, use PVC or clay pots.. and lower it to 1.009

good luck, not sure how your fish will do for now, but hopefully things will go well.. if not, your fish guy should hopefully take good care of your livestock.

 

[tangfish]

Over the last month I have see many achilles tangs come in. Most have died from poor collection. The ony onbe that I have seen make it, was put in a 55gal QT and did fresh water dips every day. It has made it so far, over 4 weeks now in the QT.

With that said, it had a fugus and not ich. Try the dips.

 

[davelin315]

87 degrees? I have to admit I'm not up to date on all of the techniques for treating disease in fish, but how does boosting the temperature that high help and how does lowering the salinity to 1.015 help? I am a big advocate of keeping fish in as normal a situation as you can and offering them lots of nutritious foods, I've even dropped the salinity down a bit to help the fish at times with disease, but I'm truly lost with why you'd raise the temperature that high and drop the salinity down so little (not hyposalinity yet, seems like it's simply uncomfortable for the fish). Not meaning to be rude, simply not understanding why you've done what you've done.

My suggestion on the fish is to do a really good job feeding the fish now that it's eating. Let it gain back its strength and that will help it to get over whatever it has along with medicating if it's needed.

 

[dh350twin]

87 degrees? I have to admit I'm not up to date on all of the techniques for treating disease in fish, but how does boosting the temperature that high help and how does lowering the salinity to 1.015 help? I am a big advocate of keeping fish in as normal a situation as you can and offering them lots of nutritious foods, I've even dropped the salinity down a bit to help the fish at times with disease, but I'm truly lost with why you'd raise the temperature that high and drop the salinity down so little (not hyposalinity yet, seems like it's simply uncomfortable for the fish). Not meaning to be rude, simply not understanding why you've done what you've done.

My suggestion on the fish is to do a really good job feeding the fish now that it's eating. Let it gain back its strength and that will help it to get over whatever it has along with medicating if it's needed.

I read and was told raising the temp speeds the life cycle up of the parasite.The fish seem to like it as well.Lowering the salinity i was told would also make the parasite die faster,im scared to go to much lower.

 

[dh350twin]

How exactly do you prepare and execute a fresh water dip?

 

[Ben_Im]

I read and was told raising the temp speeds the life cycle up of the parasite.The fish seem to like it as well.Lowering the salinity i was told would also make the parasite die faster,im scared to go to much lower.

Temp MUST be at normal temperature (i.e. 78* F). Elevated temperature will cause crypt to go into period of dormancy. Also do not treat the display tank, but rather, treat in a treatment tank that has no live rock, or substrate. Just a simple hang-on-back filter, heater/thermostat, and PVC fittings large enough for the fish to hide behind is adequate.

Please READ READ READ
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23132-marine-ich-myths-facts.html


Did I mention you should read this?
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/fish-diseases-treatments/23132-marine-ich-myths-facts.html

I hope this works out for you

 

[davelin315]

One thing is that with raised temperature you get lower oxygen content in the water which could feasibly also cause the pH to go down (although I'm not sure if this would be significant enough to impact the pH in a tank). The warmer the water, the higher the metabolism of the fish, which means that it will also need more food. I don't think that raising the temperature will actually help much and actually think it will be detrimental, especially that high.

For a freshwater dip, I would take some dechlorinated water that has been floated in the tank and has as close a matching pH as possible to the tank and then just drop the fish in. You have to watch it as it stays in there and be on the alert for abnormal behaviors. Obviously the fish will get stressed out, but if it starts laying on its side or doing anything like that, you have to yank it out if it doesn't respond and swim. Any inverting of the fish is definitely a problem. You can leave a fish in a freshwater dip with careful monitoring for 20 minutes or so, but I rarely dip for longer than 5-10 minutes at most. I've also heard of stories of fish being left in the dip accidentally for hours and not showing any adverse reactions, but have not done this myself. With advanced cases of ich where the fish is already showing signs of being run down I'm not sure this helps, though. Ich is an internal parasite and when it's in the latter stages of infection it shows itself on the skin of the fish. The parasites themselves are still stuck to the fish with their bodies buried inside beneath the scales. A freshwater dip can serve a couple of purposes, getting parasites to drop off the body by releasing and exploding some as well through flooding their bodies with freshwater as they try and equalize the salt in and out of their bodies. If a fish is already too unhealthy, this can cause them more problems than it solves.

 

[beachgyrl0]

my achilles did the same exact thing!

 

[dh350twin]

my achilles did the same exact thing!

So laura what did you do? And how is your achilles now?

 

[RBU1]

I am not too impressed with the title of your thread. Do you want this fish to die?

Or do you want advice on what to do?

What size tank is he in?

Is this your treatment tank or main tank?

How long has the tank been runnning and what is your means of filtration?

If the fish does not eat usually within a week or two, at most it will die.

What have you done so far and is the fish eating anything?

 

[wooden_reefer]

I bought an achilles tang from my fish guy,he quarantined it for 7 days.I brought it home and acclimated him better then i usually do sine ive been told there are very hard to keep.Ist week he just kept to himself ,i never seen him eat?Week 2 i noticed ich developing on him especially at night.

I immediately starting to slowly raise the temperature to 87 degrees and lower the salinity to 1.015...and started dipping there food in garlic.Formula 2 and NORI.

During the day all was well after a few days i even saw the achilles nipping on the NORI(yeah).

Well i know i need to do a water change but what else is there to do to get rid of the ich so i can add my next fish.

Any QT will last much longer than 7 days. It is not commercially practical for any seller to QT fish for you. The seller will have to charge you much more (try double) due to the space,time, and labor needed to rigorously QT fish for at least six weeks, better 8-10 weeks.

Also, do not expect all fish you order unseen in advance to live. It is a disadvantage to live in place without a good LFS closeby so that you can make sure the fish eats well before buying. The method of capture and the treatment a fish gets in transit and holding tank are critical.

 

[dh350twin]

i am not too impressed with the title of your thread. Do you want this fish to die?

Or do you want advice on what to do?

What size tank is he in?

Is this your treatment tank or main tank?

How long has the tank been runnning and what is your means of filtration?

If the fish does not eat usually within a week or two, at most it will die.

What have you done so far and is the fish eating anything?

you read the title wrong it clearly means for the parasite to die already.why would i ask for advice to save him if i wanted him dead,,,,,hmmmmm..........

 

[dh350twin]

any qt will last much longer than 7 days. It is not commercially practical for any seller to qt fish for you. The seller will have to charge you much more (try double) due to the space,time, and labor needed to rigorously qt fish for at least six weeks, better 8-10 weeks.

Also, do not expect all fish you order unseen in advance to live. It is a disadvantage to live in place without a good lfs closeby so that you can make sure the fish eats well before buying. The method of capture and the treatment a fish gets in transit and holding tank are critical.

so are you saying that you do not believe me.i do order fish from my fish guy,and he puts them in a qt.he makes sure they are eating before he lets them go.

 

[RBU1]

you read the title wrong it clearly means for the parasite to die already.why would i ask for advice to save him if i wanted him dead,,,,,hmmmmm..........

I did not see you asking for advice. I only saw you telling what you did already. All is wrong but you still did it. Raising temp does nothing for marine ich. You probably just reduced the oxygen level in the water stressing the fish even more.

I asked you some questions in my previous post. If you answer those it will let me help you better.

 

[RBU1]

so are you saying that you do not believe me.i do order fish from my fish guy,and he puts them in a qt.he makes sure they are eating before he lets them go.

No I think what he is saying is that your supplier is not doing a proper QT. 7 days is not a proper QT. Don't trust anyone but yourself to properly QT fish.

 

[wooden_reefer]

so are you saying that you do not believe me.i do order fish from my fish guy,and he puts them in a qt.he makes sure they are eating before he lets them go.

I don't believe the seller.

Even if a fish eats, it doesn't necessarily mean it eats well.

many seller may say they QT their fish but they don't and can't, if you ask for the specifics. What are the processes?

If you have to order online, it is better to limit your choice to species (IMO areas of collection and transport) that give you better chances. Some species are known to feed better quicker.

 

[dh350twin]

I thought i was asking for advice.Here are some answers to your questions .The tank is 110 gallon 5ft long.its my main tank i never had a qt tank only a reef tank.I wanted to set up a fish only because i dont keep any fish in my reeftank.

The tank is about 5months old.I have about 80lbs of live rock and a sump underneath trickle filter into bio balls and filter media into a refugium with chaeto growing,then it falls to last chamber where return pump and protien skimmer is
I also have a penguin bio powered filter 350 that i added about 1month ago to get 10 to 12x per hour.

 

[RBU1]

OK so you have a fish only?

But you do have live rock?

What about inverts? Any of those?

In my opinion it is always better to treat in a seperate tank. Is that an option for you at all?

I also prefer copper over hypo BUT in your case because it is an achilles and I had bad luck with an achilles and copper I would tell you to try the hypo, but again in a seperate tank.

I would think that if you do a hypo treatment in your main tank you are going to kill what ever life may be in the rock causing a spike in amonnia that may effect the fish anyway. If you can't set up a seperate tank can you remove all your rock/inverts and place them in a trash can with a heater and powerhead? Keep in mind it will have to saty in the trash can for 12 weeks to make sure the parasite is no longer in the rock/water.

 

[dh350twin]

I just bought a custom 150 gal 72x24x18 rimless tank that i am considering transferring my reeftank into and all my fowlr tank inhabitants into the new tank,so i would only have one tank.
I could set this one up and move the live rock to there.Could the live rock with water trapped inside carry over the parasite?