Dimmable Driver Without A Controller

crn005

New member
I am curious what will happen if I run MW ELN-60-48P drivers without them hooked up to a controller. Won't they just go full power all the time? I think I remember reading that somewhere but I can't find it anymore.

Thanks!
 
You need to supply power to the PWM or they won't run. You can simply hook up a 10v wall-wart and they'll run at full power. But I believe with the ELN P specifically, you can also dim them using a POT, just like the D. Never tried it myself, but remember reading that somewhere.
 
You need to supply power to the PWM or they won't run. You can simply hook up a 10v wall-wart and they'll run at full power. But I believe with the ELN P specifically, you can also dim them using a POT, just like the D. Never tried it myself, but remember reading that somewhere.
Both voltage and current are adjustable..
http://www.meanwell.com/search/eln-60/ELN-60-spec.pdf

As to the 10v thing .. the only thing you nedd to be careful of is that the dimmer circuitry is intolerant of voltage over 10V... you have little headroom so a "wall wart" should be checked as to it's real voltage..
For testing a 9v battery works good..
This was one of my first drivers (well the 10V "analog" version.. )
And at the time 10v "warts" weren't readily available. but cheap fleabay "step down" boards were.. so I used a 12v w/ a board to trim it to 10v.. that and a 10k pot for dimming..
Oh it's current demands on the dimmer is very minimal.. 10's of milliamps..

Most of what I learned about that driver was from here.. somewhere..
 
Last edited:
The -P versions are 10v PWM, the -D versions are 0-10v analog and are the ones that can be dimmed with a potentiometer. Supplying a straight 10v signal will make them run full on, as when PWM is set to reach maximum output it sends a straight signal.

If you want it to work without a separate input voltage, then I would suggest something like an Inventronics driver that has its own.
 
The -P versions are 10v PWM, the -D versions are 0-10v analog and are the ones that can be dimmed with a potentiometer. Supplying a straight 10v signal will make them run full on, as when PWM is set to reach maximum output it sends a straight signal.

If you want it to work without a separate input voltage, then I would suggest something like an Inventronics driver that has its own.

Agreed, I used P drivers with separate PWM controllers on my DIY LED set up before getting a controller.

Another option is available such as a DDC-02 PWM Controller or "The Storm", "The Storm X" which have digital displays.
 
The -P versions are 10v PWM, the -D versions are 0-10v analog and are the ones that can be dimmed with a potentiometer. Supplying a straight 10v signal will make them run full on, as when PWM is set to reach maximum output it sends a straight signal.

If you want it to work without a separate input voltage, then I would suggest something like an Inventronics driver that has its own.

Pretty sure "P" work both ways..

Will the 9v work on the P (PWM) version?
Yelp(sic). I've done this myself.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1825675

AFAICT .. the "p" version is dimmable either method.. the "d" is not...

not going to swear by it though since "I" have never done it.. Others apparently have though... ;)

1) Yes, you can use the 10v dc to signal the 48-P meanwell driver.
2) Yes, you can use a 5k pot to control the 10v dc signal to dim the 48-P meanwell driver. No disrespect to what Kcress said, but for some reason my 48-P driver worked well with this setup, for 3 months while I was building my controller.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2111267
 
Last edited:
Back
Top