DIY 10 gallon fuge combo with canister filter

[kfowler]

I now understand all the confusion. The right side of the sump with the heater is where the main display empties into. The water then flows through the baffles into the fuge. The eggcrate in the corner hides the return pump. So I think you're looking at it backwards.

As far as why evaporation occurs in the return area only, it's had to explain but it has to do with that's the last place the water is flowing before it returns to the tank. That's a really lousy explanation but I'm not sure how to explain.

The eggcrate on top is just a safe guard to keep the light from falling in. You really don't need it but I like. It does nothing for evaporation. I personally like evaporation in my trank and try to promote it. It keeps your tank cool and aids in oxygen diffusion.

So let me know if we're still all confused.

 

[gabegmonkey]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8887100#post8887100 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lildraken
okay I gotsta stupit question. LOL
how come all the evaporation occurs in the return area? I See that the fuge is covered but with eggcrate, not glass right? Is it a bad idea to try and cover the fuge except for the parts that are sticking out to reduce evaporation?

just FYI: the evaporation takes place in both the display tank and the sump but you'll only SEE a difference in water level in the sump area...

 

[gabegmonkey]

basically the display tank will always have the same level of water because the overflow (near the top...) will not allow it to be any lower and when the water level is higher, then it drains to the sump....

when evaporation occurs(24/7) the total system volume decreases and since the display tank traps a definite amount of water there's just the sump left for the evaporation to be seen in...

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

Kevin, this seems backwards to me. I would think you would want the water from the display to come into the small eggcrate chamber and overflow into the fuge area and then through the baffles into the heater/skimmer area and be pumped back up to the maine tank. Would either way work? Why did you choose your way?

 

[kfowler]

gabegmonkey - Correct. Thanks for explaining that better.

The Saltwater Kid - The sump was based off a lot of Melev's sumps. I think there's several reason for your drain to go into the skimmer section first. The skimmer gets a chance to skim the dirtiest water first and then supply cleaner water to the fuge. Also, the skimmer does create some micro bubbles which the baffles take care of. It's really probably just personal preference.

I really like the sumps with the drain and skimmer on one end, return area in the middle, and fuge on the other end. But that would work for this setup due to size.

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

What if you're not going to have an in sump skimmer (go HOB instead), would one way work better then the other then?

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

I mean where the return and overflow are located in the design.

 

[kfowler]

You could certainly save A LOT of room by not having an in sump skimmer. Ultimately I still think the 10g is too small to have 3 seperate sections. Ultimately, you always be limited by the size of the return area due to evaporation. I think the really cool thing about sumps is that you can do them so many different ways. Check out Melev's site www.melevsreef.com. He's got tons of different styles. You may want to pm him and see what he thinks. Let us know what you decide.

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

I like your layout Kevin, I just think since I'm not going to have an in-sump skimmer I would do the reverse of what you did and have the overflow from the main tank come in where your eggcrate chamber is, make it out of solid glass w/the "teeth" style openings on the top sides that empty into the refugium area so I can have a live sand bed in the fuge along with a good ball of chaeto (I would also stick my heater in the fuge area along with a small powerhead to get some more flow going), have that water flow through the triple baffles into the return pump area (where your heater and skimmer are) and go back up into the main tank from there. What do you think?

 

[lildraken]

I just got my 30 gal long to start a fuge/sump! Thanks for the info Kevin, I got 3 pieces of glass cut from Lowes for only 6.95 all together. i'll let everyone know how it all goes.

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

How do you guys silicon the baffles in place (since they are only spaced 1" apart)?

 

[kfowler]

Justin - The only conern I would have with your layout would be the evaporation from your return area. I litereally lose at least an inch of water level per day in the fuge area I have. If I had my return where my skimmer is, it would probably go dry in one day. If you have an auto top-off, I wouldn't worry about it.

As far as siliconing the baffles, it's very easy. I only siliconed one side of each baffle. I used a small square to make the baffles straight. For the middle one, I used a scrap 1" piece of wood to get it off the ground and kept it there long enough for the silicone to cure. It doesn't take long for the silicone to hold something in place. As a guide, I made marks 1" apart on the outside of the tank to line the baffles up. I think you'll find it's fairly easy. Besides the smell, I really like working with silicone.

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

Alright Kevin, stupid question of the day time. I've heard a lot about auto top-off's but don't quite understand how the work and where would you install it on this type of fuge/sump layout?

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

bump

 

[kfowler]

Justin - Not a stupid question at all. Let me preface this by saying I am by no means and expert and have never owned an auto top-off unit. I've been doing a lot of reading on them since I'm in the market. There are several different types with all kinds of different switches. Gravity fed, pump fed, float valves, float switches, etc. There are lots of DIY projects out there. The one I'm looking at is a DIY pump fed and with a float switch. You mount the float switch in your sump at the water level you want. This switch is usually powered by a 9 volt battery or wall outlet. The switch is usually connected to a solenoid. The solenoid is then connected to the wall outlet and the plug from the pump. In this case a Maxi-Jet 600. The pump is located in a fresh water container nearby. Mine will be a 5g bucket. From the pump, a 1/2" tube runs out and back into the sump. When the water level drops in your sump, the float switch drops and completes the circuit. This then turns the pump on and water is pumped from the bucket into the sump. When the water level rises back to where you want it, the float switch rises and breaks the circuit hence turning off the pump. Pretty simple. I like the ones that have two float switches so that if one fails, it won't continue to pump water into your tank. Hope that helps.

BTW, I will be setting one up as soon as I can find a piece of furniture to hide the 5 gal bucket from my wife. My tank cab is not big enough.

 

[kfowler]

Here's one for ya:

http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...roduct_Code=AH-BASIC-ATO&Category_Code=Dosers

 

[sxtsvnstng]

So do you guys think that if i used this design as a basis that it would be a big enough fuge for my 55 gallon? I would have a skimmer in there also so at least that would not be my only filtration.

 

[kfowler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8901163#post8901163 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sxtsvnstng
So do you guys think that if i used this design as a basis that it would be a big enough fuge for my 55 gallon? I would have a skimmer in there also so at least that would not be my only filtration.

I've read of several people doing this for a 55g. Any chance a 20g Long would fit? I would try that first but the 10g will work also. Couple things to keep in mind.
1.) Size of your skimmer. May take up more room than my Urchin. If you don't have a skimmer yet you may want to consider the Urchin Pro for a 55g. Would be larger though. Make sure your cabinet is tall enough for it.
2.) Your heaters will obviously be bigger. You'll need to plan how and where you'll place them. My tank runs very cool due to a canopy fan. So I'm having to run a 100 watt and 50 watt heater to maintain temps. BTW, I really like using two heaters spaced apart.
3.) Finally and I sound like a broken record here, a 55g will evaporate a heck of a lot more water than my 20 High, so you definitely want to make your return/fuge area as large as possible and seriously consider an auto top-off.

 

[The Saltwater Kid]

Kevin can you tell me the exact size of your baffles? I think this would be the easiest way to make them. Also what thickness did you use? Thanks!!!

 

[kfowler]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8904007#post8904007 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by The Saltwater Kid
Kevin can you tell me the exact size of your baffles? I think this would be the easiest way to make them. Also what thickness did you use? Thanks!!!

I was afraid you were going to ask me this. I don't recall off hand but I'll see of I can get a close measurement when I get home. I know the thinkness is 1/8".