DIY 90 stand

jet_jer

Premium Member
Just thought I would post some progress pics from my new 90 Gal tanks stand and hood.

Here is the 2x4 base frame with 1/2" plywood for the top and bottom:
stand-base.jpg


Here it is after a long days work (for me ) and about 50 pocket holes drilled :) - It's pine wood (stainable panels) from Lowe's for the sides and the front is made of pine 1x6's.
stand-premoulding.jpg


and from the back:
stand-back.jpg


I have to finish the mouldings around each of the sections and will get to the doors next weekend. I'll post pics later tonight with the moulding on as it will take awhile (I am mimicing the entertainment center as they will be in the same room) so I am making the moulding myself.

I plan to paint the inside of the stand and canopy with Killz and then a marine enamel - If that is the perfered wayt o do it. The outside will be stainged to match the entertainment center and will have a satin polyurthane finish.

Let me know what you think.

jer
 
things are looking good thus far, however, concerning the "plywood top" is that a solid plywood top that the tank sits on? If so, I believe those glass tanks are designed to be supported on the outside (on the trim base) and can potentially crack on a solid base.

I think someone else should verify this, but that is what i have heard, and I have had my tank on a stand that supports it only around the edges with no problems.

hope that was coherent,

Matt
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8216861#post8216861 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheVillageIdiot
things are looking good thus far, however, concerning the "plywood top" is that a solid plywood top that the tank sits on? If so, I believe those glass tanks are designed to be supported on the outside (on the trim base) and can potentially crack on a solid base.

I think someone else should verify this, but that is what i have heard, and I have had my tank on a stand that supports it only around the edges with no problems.

hope that was coherent,

Matt

???? I don't get that? The plywood top is supporting the tank via the trim as the glass bottom does not touch the wood surface at all. It really makes no difference...

T
 
Tank is a 90Gal AGA. I guess I'll email AGA just to be safe, but I wouldn't think that it would hurt anything.

Can glass actually bend after it's been tempered?

jer
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8217495#post8217495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jet_jer
Can glass actually bend after it's been tempered?
jer

Yes it can. This won't because of the size but virtually everything will flex prior to breaking.
Place a piece of the ridgid pink insulation down fist then the tank. Works great and takes up any differences.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8217555#post8217555 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newtophish
Yes it can. This won't because of the size but virtually everything will flex prior to breaking.
Place a piece of the ridgid pink insulation down fist then the tank. Works great and takes up any differences.

I am pretty sure All-Glass has recommended against the use of rigid foam specifically. I think your best bet is to contact the manufacturer and ask them directly.
 
I called Rob at all glass and left a message for a call back - at this point it would be very easy to remover the plywood base top.

I wouldn't put it on foam as I can see where that would possibly cause major havok.

jer
 
Tagging along here, getting ready to build a 125 stand and wondering about the plywood issue. If you happen to read this before he calls you back and you dont mind doing me a quick favor ask if he has a different answer for the 125 than the 90, Its is 2 feet longer so maybe it makes a difference
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8217555#post8217555 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by newtophish
Yes it can. This won't because of the size but virtually everything will flex prior to breaking.
Place a piece of the ridgid pink insulation down fist then the tank. Works great and takes up any differences.

I would think the foam would much more likely put pressure on the glass bottom of the tank. Be interested to see what AGA has to say.

BTW your Tanks and stand/canopy are looking great.
 
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I don't think you need to support the edge. The plastic lip on the bottom does that. Lots of folks do DIY stands that are flat tops.

If that were the case they would put a label on the tank. My 90 sits on a flat plywood top( four years now- along with dropping rocks on the bare glass), along with dozens of other folks doing a DIY stand and I don't believe I ever heard of the bottom busting out. I have a 26 bow with the AGA stand that is a solid piece of wood.

My thinking is if you have to support the bottom then you would have to support the front of the tank near the bottom. The pressure is probably just as great near the center/front/bottom as it would be anywhere on the bottom.

Get the info from AGA and pass it along.

Rich
 
ummm his stand is completly fine. i think someone got confused or something and that they thought the tank was held by the bottom glass and not the black rim... his tank (the black trim) sits on 1/2" plywood base and the glass is off of the plywood by however much aga made the gap. he can run the 1/2" pink or blue insulation if he wants, to take up any level problems, but its not necessary, and its not going to break his tank either. people run the insulation on flat bottom glass tanks (which are diy) and flat acrylic tanks ( which are diy and fabricated that way). this is done because the whole bottom is supported by the plywood (actually insulation) and any point loads (read- a high spot in the wood/insulation) will put excess pressure on the flat glass because its not raised with black trim like most major manufactured glass tanks ... hth

fwiw - i have a 180 setup the same way - no insulation - and its fine. i could have put some in there if i wanted but not 100% necessary. if you do, you only need it where the black trim touches the wood.
 
No answer from AGA yet, I'll try again today. I'm leaving it as is for now after looking at a bunch of DIY stands that were using 90 or 120 AGA tanks all using the plywood top to sit on.

Once I get the ofiicial word, I'll pass it along.

jer
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8217247#post8217247 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheVillageIdiot
it depends on the size of the tank, if the glass begins to flex and bend down, it can push against the plywood bottom.

I still don't understand the above statement... If in fact, the bottom of the tank were to deflect far enough to touch the plywood, wouldn't the plywood be holding it up and stopping it from deflecting more and therefor a benefit?

What am I missing? I ask becasue I build my stand the same way...

T
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8224088#post8224088 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Liquid Hobby
I still don't understand the above statement... If in fact, the bottom of the tank were to deflect far enough to touch the plywood, wouldn't the plywood be holding it up and stopping it from deflecting more and therefor a benefit?

What am I missing? I ask becasue I build my stand the same way...

T

This has long been an argument here. I think the implication is that the glass is meant to flex some, but when it runs into the plywood, the 'upward pressure' of the plywood would create uneven forces on the bottom of the tank, making it morelikely to crack because it was designed to be supported by its edges and not its center.

Honestly until we have an answer from AGA there is no 'good' answer. My guess is that all those glass tanks that have a solid plywodd bottom aen't under anyrisk unless the plywood gets wet, waps and pushes up on the bottom of the tank.
 
AGA's Answer: As long as there are no high spots on the plywood in the corners - there is nothing wrong with having the plywood top on the base. I asked if this was for all AGA glass aquariums and the respose was yes.

So it seems that as long as the base of the aquarium does not get twisted when sitting in the plywood then all is well.

jer
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8224769#post8224769 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jet_jer
AGA's Answer: As long as there are no high spots on the plywood in the corners - there is nothing wrong with having the plywood top on the base. I asked if this was for all AGA glass aquariums and the respose was yes.

So it seems that as long as the base of the aquarium does not get twisted when sitting in the plywood then all is well.

jer

Nice to have a definitive answer from the pros :)
 
AGA says not to put foam under the tank as it will compress along the sides where the weight of the tank is and potentially push up against the unsupported middle if it compresses enough. So it's not the foam per se, but pressure on the glass bottom. All the weight needs to be carried on the plastic rim.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8224769#post8224769 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jet_jer
AGA's Answer: As long as there are no high spots on the plywood in the corners - there is nothing wrong with having the plywood top on the base. I asked if this was for all AGA glass aquariums and the respose was yes.

So it seems that as long as the base of the aquarium does not get twisted when sitting in the plywood then all is well.

jer



Makes perfect sense to me!!
 
stand-post-molding.jpg


stand-post-molding-2.jpg


Molding is on and the stand is in the house for a temporary fit.

Staining and painting for the next couple days.

jer
 
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