DIY AutoTop Off Workshop (Sign up here)

funman1

funman1

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OK, it seems there is now enough interest to make a workshop for a DIY ATO unit.

There ARE MANY options for building these.
I will recommend what I feel is best BUT you may build yours with us however you wish.


Parts needed that MUST be ordered by you.

Float switches: (I recommend at least 2. But if you are using a PH as a pump you will need 3. People who want to use the AquaLifter (I highly recommend this pump) Will only Need 2 FS's)

Snail guards (Optional): I highly recommend at least 1 of these to protect your FS from objects and critters

Mod a Holder (Optional): You can use acrylic or other means, but this stuff is by far the fastest IMO


Stuff you need that either you can get, or I can get for you...

Prices listed are what I would charge for the item, you may be able to get them cheaper, and you may bring these items your self.
I'm just offering this service to help those who can't find this stuff on their own, or are too lazy :)

2 gang deep residential (blue) electrical box: This is where all your goodies will go to control the outlet. $2.00

1 normal outlet plug (Receptacle) $1.00

1 light switch: This is optional but HIGHLY recommended so that you can shut OFF your ATO during water changes. $1.00

1 Two gang cover plate for plug and switch $1.00

12Volt Relay $4.00

12V Wall-wort 12VDC power supply $15.00

Old Computer power cord or other extension cord we can hack up. $2.00

So if you get the "MUST ORDER" stuff and want me to get the rest for you, then it's a cost of "2+1+1+1+4+15" = $24.00

You are more than welcome to get all the parts on your own and bring them to the workshop and get help building it for NO COST.
 
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Get the $6.99 i-Float Switch (2 or 3 depending on your application).

Steve has the relays for cheaper, so buy that from him. I'd recomend trying to dig up a spare transformer from your box of unused electronics (come one, we all have at least one) or find one at a garage sale, otherwise buy from AquaHub for $7.59.

And don't forget to get the 'Mold-A-Hold' for the switches if that's the route you are going for mounting them.

FYI: TAP Plastics has super cheap bottles that can be used for the 'snail guard' if you require one. Way cheaper than the $1.79 that Aquahub charges. I'd recommend just finding something around the house (like an empty aspirin bottle) to save some $.

You will also need a pump of some sort (aqualifter, MJ4000, etc).



Steve, do you use Kalk? Think there is any chance we can incorporate a kalk top-off tutorial/instructional along with this class? That is what I plan to use for top off water, but not sure how.
 
WIll this work for my application?

I just got that blue 55 gallon drum and was going to use it to mix salt and and was hoping i could also hook something like this to it and have it top off my sump when needed,
 
You don't want to top off with SW. Top off is for evaporation which is FW, and should be replaced with FW.

Also, people would say its a bad idea to top off directly from a very large resevoir. If, by some freak chance, your pump was stuck on (stuck switch?), all 55 gallons would end up in your sump. I've read recommendations to have a smaller resevoir that the 55 feeds (like a 7 gallon) and the smaller resevior is used by the ATO for top offs.
The other 'failsafe' I've seen recommended is to put your ATO pump on a timer (I'll be using this method with my AC Jr). This way there are now 2 measures in place for top off: 1) float switch - only tops off if water level low, 2) timer - top off is only for x amount of time set by timer - set for many short periods per day. This protects against a float switch sticking or a pump staying on due to a crack/leak/etc.
 
Mark,

So what do you top off from a small container? That doesnt sound very effiecent to me then you are always refilling that?

I would just rather do it by hand when it gets low.

Just trying to get an idea cause when it comes to ATO and RO/DI units and installing I'm clueless. But i really need to get a unit. paying $10 a pop for water is lame and a unit will pay for itself fast.

So can i hook up a RO/DI unit that would go right into my 55 drum?
 
Hooking up your RO/DI directly to your 55 drum is a good idea. You just need one of these float valves and a ASO (auto shut off) for the filter. A similar float valve can be used to feed your ATO resevoir. You can certainly run your ATO directly from the 55, you are just exposing yourself to more risk, from what I have been told.
 
The date and time will be determined in a few days, after everyone has had time to order their parts.

Ok list of people in for this session so far.

Name / Needs Me to supply extra parts?
bored4long / Unknown
D&KSac / Unknown
boviac / Unknown
bladeruner143 / Unknown
Auntbeez / Unknown
C4SxM5 / Unknown
?kdblove_99? / ????????



Questions,
bladeruner143, Yes the cheap ones mentioned above are the ones I would go with.

bored4long, Yes I have run Kalk before on this system, because I never seal my containers alot of kalk precipates back out of solution, BUT it's still very effective in dosing. I no longer dose kalk because I use the litermeter for dosing, and find it to be WAY better than dosing kalk.

kdblove_99, Yes you could hook this you your 55G drum, however like Mark said, you top off with fresh RODI water not salt water. So the 55G drum would be full of fresh RODI

For the super paranoid that their ATO system will fail there is always this you can add to the output of your ATO system, so if the water is simply too high in your sump it can't come out of the valve no matter what your ATO is doing.
Something similar to this one
fv.jpg


I'm not a big fan of time out timers on my ATO stuff. Because I use the aqualifters, when they run dry (Will not harm them to run dry) They make a VERY loud gurgling sound, and that's how I know when to refill my ATO containers.

So please respond here, or in PM if you need me to get the other parts for you, or if you plan to get them on your own.
ALSO let me know when you have your MUST ORDER parts in, So I can tell when all have their parts in order.

I will update the list now and then so people can see the list.

The closing date for this Workshop will be the day we do it.
If everyone has their parts in by Feb 5th then we may shoot for the 9th (Sat) for the workshop.
 
Steve,

Do you think it would be ok if i auto top offed from my 55 drum with fresh water?.

I know Mark said units can fail and empty the drum and create quite a mess. Do these act up alot?

Even if it did over flow it wouldnt be too bad since all that stuff is in the garage anyways
 
Steve ill pick up the extra parts i need i have extra recepts and switches i think laying around in the garage need to take inventory on what i have left over from side jobs ive done. ill see and post on here might save some people some money.
 
Sounds good Mihn, Thanks.. Hope to see you there, we can always use help..

kdblove_99,
It's not the mess you have to worry about so much when a unit fails,
it's the MASSIVE drop in salinity that will kill everything in your tank AND make a colossal mess.
It's the worst of both worlds :(
I personally have never had a unit fail with 2 float switches on it.
I keep them cleaned every 3-6 months and I think you "should" be fine.
HOWEVER if I was to place a 55G drum on my tanks, I would use the float valve FOR SURE,
that way it's almost 100% fool proof.


This list will automatically update inside ANY post I put in.. So if you can see it; you are seeing the current updated list.
Even if this post is very outdated, the visible list will be current

DIYATOList.bmp
 
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February 9th may not be a good day seeing how thats Chinese New Year weekend. I and most South East Asians probably will be with their family, so may cause a conflict ;)

Concerning parts, I would like Funman to supply the parts for $24 and need time to locate the MUST ORDER parts unless someone can pick up double of everything:)
 
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