SB Reef Lights
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If you are running the Evergrow D120 or D2040 [profanity] chinese LED lights, then you know they are PAR monsters and can grow coral. However, even the full spectrum versions could have their spectrums tailored a little. Too much warm white, not enough 420nm. No true UV (385nm). You can easily take a good light to great with a couple diode swaps.
I got more UV diodes in and thought I would share how to change them out. This works for any diode you want to change. I chose to swap out two warm white 3500k for the 2 385nm UVs. They also make 14k and 20k diodes which our units do not have stock. You can also swap half of your 460/470nm blues for 420nm violets for a more purple look and more coral glow.
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, soldering iron, flux core solder, Needle nose pliers, pick. Possibly thermal paste. Mine was still soft enough to get a good seal between the bottom of the diode and heat sink. If yours is dried up, you will need to scrape it off and re-aply new paste. They sell it at radio shack.
Parts needed: 2 Epistar or Bridgelux 3w 380nm up to 405nm UV Diodes. I got 10 385nm shipped for under $15. Do not go below 380nm, you are in sunburn land then with unhappy corals.
1. Note location of diode you will be replacing. Note on paper with location of power cords in case you get spun around.
2. Remove 8 screws from outer case. Pull up top cover and carefully flip over Pic 1 and 2.
3. Disconnect two wires connecting drivers to heat sink plate. You can mark the right side with a marker in case you get the heat sink turned around at some point.
4. Remove 4 small screws holding down the heat sink.
5. Carefully pull up on heat sink, you may need to use the pick in the screw holes to get it up enough to grab.
6. Flip over heat sink to expose diodes and optics. Note which way you flip it, it will now be 180* off your paper.
7. Remove the optic from the diode you plan to replace. The optics just slide over the diodes and clip in place. Yours may be stuck slightly on the thermal past. Give it a slight tug and it will come right off.
8. Use the soldering iron to heat the solder on the right side, once shiny use the pick or needle nose to pull up on that side of the diode. Keep the heat on the tab. It will slowly heat through and release. Give a second to cool before letting go with the pick.
9. Repeat on the left side. You now have the diode removed. Check the thermal past, it should be tacky to the touch.
10. Use the soldering iron to smooth out any solder left on the board, it must be flat in order for the new diode to rest all the way down making contact with the heat sink.
11. Holding the diode in place, pushing down, heat the right tab until the solder underneath turns shiny. Remove the soldering iron but keep pressing the tab down for a couple seconds.
12. Repeat on the left side, making sure the diode is contacting the heat sink. When completed, you can then add a small amount of new solder to each tab. Do not go crazy and keep it neat, the optic must clear the tabs and solder to snap in place.
13. Replace optics. Reverse instructions to put casing back together.
14. Optional - Remove all optics. If you have a shallow tank , 20 inches or less. (55g, 40B, 29g etc) you can remove all of the optics. This will give you 120* spread per diode instead of 90*. In a deeper tank you need the 90* spread for depth penetration. However on a shallower tank, you get a much better color blend with 120*. You also get wider coverage and more prisming on the sand with less colored disco effect. It looks like a whole new light. Last pics are of my 40B that used to be dim on the edges. NOw it looks great all over.
Here are pictures of the process.
I got more UV diodes in and thought I would share how to change them out. This works for any diode you want to change. I chose to swap out two warm white 3500k for the 2 385nm UVs. They also make 14k and 20k diodes which our units do not have stock. You can also swap half of your 460/470nm blues for 420nm violets for a more purple look and more coral glow.
Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver, soldering iron, flux core solder, Needle nose pliers, pick. Possibly thermal paste. Mine was still soft enough to get a good seal between the bottom of the diode and heat sink. If yours is dried up, you will need to scrape it off and re-aply new paste. They sell it at radio shack.
Parts needed: 2 Epistar or Bridgelux 3w 380nm up to 405nm UV Diodes. I got 10 385nm shipped for under $15. Do not go below 380nm, you are in sunburn land then with unhappy corals.
1. Note location of diode you will be replacing. Note on paper with location of power cords in case you get spun around.
2. Remove 8 screws from outer case. Pull up top cover and carefully flip over Pic 1 and 2.
3. Disconnect two wires connecting drivers to heat sink plate. You can mark the right side with a marker in case you get the heat sink turned around at some point.
4. Remove 4 small screws holding down the heat sink.
5. Carefully pull up on heat sink, you may need to use the pick in the screw holes to get it up enough to grab.
6. Flip over heat sink to expose diodes and optics. Note which way you flip it, it will now be 180* off your paper.
7. Remove the optic from the diode you plan to replace. The optics just slide over the diodes and clip in place. Yours may be stuck slightly on the thermal past. Give it a slight tug and it will come right off.
8. Use the soldering iron to heat the solder on the right side, once shiny use the pick or needle nose to pull up on that side of the diode. Keep the heat on the tab. It will slowly heat through and release. Give a second to cool before letting go with the pick.
9. Repeat on the left side. You now have the diode removed. Check the thermal past, it should be tacky to the touch.
10. Use the soldering iron to smooth out any solder left on the board, it must be flat in order for the new diode to rest all the way down making contact with the heat sink.
11. Holding the diode in place, pushing down, heat the right tab until the solder underneath turns shiny. Remove the soldering iron but keep pressing the tab down for a couple seconds.
12. Repeat on the left side, making sure the diode is contacting the heat sink. When completed, you can then add a small amount of new solder to each tab. Do not go crazy and keep it neat, the optic must clear the tabs and solder to snap in place.
13. Replace optics. Reverse instructions to put casing back together.
14. Optional - Remove all optics. If you have a shallow tank , 20 inches or less. (55g, 40B, 29g etc) you can remove all of the optics. This will give you 120* spread per diode instead of 90*. In a deeper tank you need the 90* spread for depth penetration. However on a shallower tank, you get a much better color blend with 120*. You also get wider coverage and more prisming on the sand with less colored disco effect. It looks like a whole new light. Last pics are of my 40B that used to be dim on the edges. NOw it looks great all over.
Here are pictures of the process.
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