DIY "contiuous" water change system?

[das75]

For water changes, with the use of pumps, valves, etc (semi automated route) can make water changes a pretty simple event (no heavy lifting etc).

I'm still siphoning out the crub from the display, sump and refugium, something that wouldn't be addressed with a true auto system.

 

[dvlax40]

for the time effort and money why not make or buy a de-nitrator?

 

[Doahh]

Because Water Changes are better than a De-Nitrator...
30 bucks to never have to do a water change again and have all of the trace elements replenished

 

[dvlax40]

um what are you a talking about? water changes cause multiple parameter spikes each time you do one... in a system where consistency is key that seems a little absurd

 

[OAD]

Heh, let me work on some diagrams, just thought of a way to make this work.

 

[OAD]

I am gonna be brief about this as I find it pretty easy to understand.

Rough Design

Rough Schematic

DUMPING
You set a time of day that you want to run the auto water change system (maybe 15 minutes?). Your timer will supply power through fs3 which is normally closed to p1. The dump tank will fill until the water level sets fs3 to open. You have now dumped your specific amount of water.

REPLENISHING
Normally P2 has no power as fs4 is open. When dump tank reaches specified level turning off P1, fs4 closes supplying power to fs5 which is normally closed to p1. P1 pumps water until fs5 detects minimum water level specified. Fs5 will open turning off p1 completing the auto water change

CONTROLLING ATO
If you have an ATO you would run into the problem of the system running while water is being dumped. This is the solution.

Normally fs1 is open until you need water so lets say it is closed detecting a low water level state. It will search for ground through fs2 or fs6. fs2 is normally closed which means the process has not started or barely has allowing the ato to get ground and work. Now lets say the process has started. Fs2 will open removing ground from fs1. fs1 can't get ground through fs6 because it is normally open. When your new water is finished replenishing your sump (low water level condition in the new reservoir) fs6 will now close allowing your ato to get ground again.

The system does require a lot of floatswitches (5 if you already have an ato) but will automatically readjust itself to be used after you dump the water out yourself and replenish the new water reservoir. I know that the post may sound really confusing, but I will be here to help.

 

[Doahh]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12949955#post12949955 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dvlax40
um what are you a talking about? water changes cause multiple parameter spikes each time you do one... in a system where consistency is key that seems a little absurd

That's the point of a CONSTANT water change system... If set up when the tank has nothing in it it's pumping good SW out and good SW in... Technically when you put livestock in this will still be happening. A parameter spike can't happen when your changing Less than 1/8 gallon over 15 minutes every two hours...

 

[Doahh]

"CONTROLLING ATO
If you have an ATO you would run into the problem of the system running while water is being dumped. This is the solution."

Unless you can pump water out and in at the same rate at the same time...
I'll make some diagrams for mine...

 

[Doahh]

OK so...
Red things are .5 GPH Sprinkler Drippers.
There is a timer that both Aqualifters (Teal Boxes) are connected to that comes on for 15 minutes every 2 hours.
The neon Green are Float Switches. the 2 on the left in the sump are Emergency ones. The one on the left in the sump is ATO. There is one in the NSW container that cuts everything out when it's empty. In this system you'd only need one relay for everything. The emergency low water level one (If the New saltwater pump fails) will cut out everything as will the low water levle one (If the Bad SW fails)

You could even hook this up to the ATO where if the bad one fails it cuts out the ATO too so that instead of constantly diluting the water it'll shut that down too.

 

[OAD]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12952390#post12952390 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Doahh
"CONTROLLING ATO
If you have an ATO you would run into the problem of the system running while water is being dumped. This is the solution."

Unless you can pump water out and in at the same rate at the same time...
I'll make some diagrams for mine...

Negative, this system does not rely on syncing pumps.

Dump pump runs until it sucks out its amount. Turns off ATO while it is doing its thing. When dump stops new water pump kicks on filling the exact amount the dump pump took out. When water runs out in the new water tank it signals the ATO to turn back on. Syncing pumps is idiotic. Running both pumps at the same time means you run into a risk of sucking out freshly made water.

 

[Doahh]

Not if you pump fresh salt water Straight into your return pump intake...
In my system I doubt 1/8 Gallon of water taken out upstream of the sump and put in Downstream of the pump will suck out freshly made SW

 

[OAD]

Neither does your system ensure that only old water is taken out.

 

[OAD]

I would like to see an electrical schematic to better understand your idea.

 

[Doahh]

There is no real Schematic... a timer and 3 float switches... 2 of wich make sure not too much water is drained/added and one to shut the system down when the New SW is empty

 

[OAD]

You could make one...

 

[kgouso]

Nice concept.

You have basically the same components that I use for a manual water change... A dump bucket and a fresh bucket (a siphon hose for Dump and a Mag 7 pump for New)

When this will catch my interest is...

When you design a automated method for mixing the new SW...and a drain for the dump water.

Otherwise you will be mixing, topping and dumping quite often.

Also...I would imagine that most siphon out the water during a water change to take advantage of the opportunity to "stir the tank" a bit before the siphon to get out extra detritus.......That would need to be automated also.

Plus the extra space needed for full time hooked up equipment....


However...for those with the larger systems and have the space (and or fish rooms) and money.... an added idea for the automation is to purcahse a washing machine and hook it up to your "new" bucket...scoop in your pre-measured salt and set the washing machine to the desired cycle and load (water) size and run...Your water would be supplied directly from your RO unit and your washing machine drain would be set to go directly into your "New" holding tank.

Your "dump" bucket could hooked into a drain of some kind and have a timed automated dump into drain so the dump is empty the next day.

So basically...your whole daily process would be to dump a scoop or two of salt into your SW machine.... :rollface:

 

[OAD]

I imagine you can accomplish it by having a mix bucket or whatever just keep mixing and 15 minutes a day or however long it will take, fill up your new water container until a floatswitch senses a full state and cuts power.

 

[dvlax40]

seems like a loot of extra stuff..... on the other hand a denitrator will zero out nitrates and maintain calcium levels....

 

[Doahh]

But a denitrator can't replenish trace elements...

 

[dvlax40]

i can replenish tace elements by dosing.... still eaiser then water change and far eaiser then system.... also salt falls out of the water coloum over time becoming sediment,... so addong salt is nessicary