DIY geothermal chiller

Thats my plan, the titanium can def be bent that tight. The copper i will bend into a 4-6" wide corkscrew about 4 feet long, and the titanium with be a 12" coil.
 
why not just add a valve onto the system then you can easily control the flow? It might ad a little more stress on the pump but then you can dial it in easier.
 
I could do that. I also think i could wire it to a dimmer switch to control the flow??? I know magnet driven pumps will not work this way, but depending on wht type of pump i end up with i think i could. anyone know this for sure?
 
I would think a dimmer switch would mos tlikely damage a pump but I couldnt say for sure, most things dont work with them. I would say some type of valve would be safer than limiting the current going to the motor, but Id like to see what others have to say, I would think if it was safe then everyone would be doing it on their tank pumps as well.
 
The only problem is i would like to limit the amount of electricity being used by the pump. valving down a pump that uses 80 watts it will most likely still use 80 watts. But if it comes down to having to slow the flow down a valve might be the way to go.
 
Do you think you are going to need a pump that big? Plus Im sure this will be on a controller, so it wont be on all the time. and like cb says your not running a mini fridge the ground will be taking care of that :)
 
Instead of bending the titanium into a coil why not connect straight lengths of tubing similar to the design of a car radiator.
 
Scott:

I just got back from a trip to Las Vegas and saw this thread.

If you like, I can show you the Geo Loop - it has been working great since September, 2006.

Shoot me a PM and let me know.


--Dave--
 
Instead of burying a loop of copper, why not two sections of baseboard heating tube soldered into a loop. the baseboard has aluminum fins that will help dissipate the heat. the hole can be back filled with sand or soil slowly as to not crush the fins too much. the pipe is 3/4 ". Any thoughts?
 
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