Im running 48 royal blue xte 3 watt Crees as 24 cool white xpg 3watt crees. Hooked up to 4 meanwell eln 60-48p drivers. 24 blues per driver and 12 whites per driver. I have them connected to a typhoon controller. The whites work flawlessly and the blues come on immediately when plugged into the wall. When I mean they come on they all dim very low. Can't figure it out. My thought was with out them connected to a controller they should see no power whatsoever.. any input would help. This is my first attempt with this kind da of thing and very frustrated.. thank you
DIY Led help
- Thread starter Jeremy81
- Start date
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
You cannot run 24x XT-E on a 48v driver. 15x or less.
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
They're wrong unless you wired them in parallel (which doesn't make any sense).
oreo57
Well-known member
They were wrong if the 24 are in series.. If 2 strings of 12 in parallell..then possibly OK (not going to check right now).
As to the bleed current.. possible brdge to heat sink. Also, oddly enough apparently one LED can excite the phosphors in another. Unfortunately this usually wouldn't apply to single bandwidth diodes like the blue.
I only played w/ the ELN's for a short time before going to "real drivers.. (LDD's)..
oreo57
Well-known member
Wire solder bridges to the heatsink..Use a volt/ohm meter set to ohms or diode (whichever one makes a single diode light up)
Pad to heat sink.. See if the diode lights.. Make sure polarity is correct and you test each side.. neg/heatsingk and pos/heatsink
oreo57
Well-known member
Each branch see 433mA.. @ 27V approx. Yes that should work fine.. Most would recommend a 1A (correct if wrong) fuse on the end of each branch.. some would recommend a current balancing circuit..
Just an FYI..
oreo57
Well-known member
If you take a loose diode and "check" ohms between the 2 contact pads.. It usually will dimely light..
If it does then you can use your meter as a test probe. Some set it to diode.
note this seems to only apply to digital meters..
To test the heat sink you just put the plus probe to the plus pad and the neg to the heat sink.. See if it lights.. Repeat for the neg probe to neg pad and plus to heat sink...
Repeat for every diode..
oreo57
Well-known member
That can be a driver thing.. As I mentioned above, I tossed the ELN's due to oddities like this.. Had some large 10W chips that never "shut off"..
Had some that flashed off , which seems to be caused if you dim past 10% and then shut the light off.
The ELN's don't technically dim to zero....
Eln experts need to chime in here..I just have some of the basic trouble shooting..
oreo57
Well-known member
but that doesn't answer if they are shorted to the heat sink.. causing leakage voltage..
you need to test each as mounted on a heat sink (they are mounted to some metal correct? ... neg to heat sink pos to heat sink See if any light.. .If they do you need to re-solder the wires.. You would have a solder bridge from pad to aluminum star.. to heat sink..
oreo57
Well-known member
No, not plugged in...
It is like this but you test from the contact to the heat sink. IF there is abridge it is just like putting the probe on the positive and negative pad..
http://youtu.be/vC6TjdkML2E
jedimasterben
LED world domination!
No, current doesn't double from the driver - it is cut in half. So if the driver gives 700mA, each LED string, if voltage matches exactly, will receive 350mA.
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