DIY LEDs - The write-up
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
- Status
TheFishMan65
New member
Now malta, I have already responded to this request in 2 other places. Please at least check for a response before posting the question again.
Thanks
Thanks
Names Brucey
New member
Looking for some trouble shooting help. I have finally resolved all my other driver issues but now have a strange issue with one single LED. I have 5 panels of 24 LED's using Fishmans driver boards. All of the panels are lit and look great but I have one single LED that doesn't light. I have tested the LED with some batteries and it is fine, but once powered up, nothing. It is the first LED in the string and all subsequent LED's light just fine? No shorts, grounds, etc. The drivers are running just fine. Any ideas. I presume it is something simple and stupid but need some help. Thanks.
TheFishMan65
New member
So it lights if you use batteries, but not if you use the driver?
Are the batter connection on the same pads as the driver? Did you by chance use 2 + or or 2 -.
Use an ohm meter are all + connected to each other? What about the -?
Try removing the LED from the heatsink. Just a quick test to make sure there is no ground to the heat sink.
You can try unsolder cleaning the pads with a solder wick and resoldering.
I want to know why you have all the fun.
I learned a cautionary tale the other idea. I have a 30 volt (expensive) adjustable power supply with current limiting capability. So I can set it .02 ma and it shouldn't but more than .02 ma through the string. Well I had it set to 9 volt and .02 ma and fried an LED. This is the same issue as connecting ELN when the are powered. I figured I was safe with a good power supply, but no such luck. Just thought I would pass this on.
Are the batter connection on the same pads as the driver? Did you by chance use 2 + or or 2 -.
Use an ohm meter are all + connected to each other? What about the -?
Try removing the LED from the heatsink. Just a quick test to make sure there is no ground to the heat sink.
You can try unsolder cleaning the pads with a solder wick and resoldering.
I want to know why you have all the fun.
I learned a cautionary tale the other idea. I have a 30 volt (expensive) adjustable power supply with current limiting capability. So I can set it .02 ma and it shouldn't but more than .02 ma through the string. Well I had it set to 9 volt and .02 ma and fried an LED. This is the same issue as connecting ELN when the are powered. I figured I was safe with a good power supply, but no such luck. Just thought I would pass this on.
It sounds linteresting, but did you see the spectral charts? I think the colors as shown are the actual colors. Even my wife isn't into that much pink.
It's a fantastic idea though. I'm sure things will just get better and better.
== John ==
lpsouth1978
New member
I recently had the same problem. It turned out that, as thefishman suggested, I had accidentally soldered both + pads instead of 1+ and 1-. A quick resoldering and everything is working great now.
TheFishMan65
New member
jg, did you see
Now if they would tailor them for us, we would be all set.
TheFishMan65
New member
Jushua,
I can't find them on Cutter's site. Do you have link?
Thanks
I can't find them on Cutter's site. Do you have link?
Thanks
JoshuaG
New member
It was in an email from Cutter but they linked this LED site. One and the same? I'm not sure.
http://www.theledstore.com.au/
EDIT-Should have read the email better, doh.
I have 2 strings of 12 XR-E RBs that I'm currently running on 2 Meanwell LPC-35-700s. I just added 2 strings of 12 XP-E RBs that I'm running in parallel on a Meanwell 60-48D and using my Profilux for dimming. Would it be possible to run all 4 strings in parallel with a MeanWell HLG-185H-42B? Or will I run into string balancing issues with the 2 different types of LEDs?
Instead of using the 2 35-700s, should I combine those 2 strings and run in parallel with another 60-48D?
The more that I read about running multiple Meanwell drivers, the more concerned I am. At most, I will probably have 4 60-48D's and 3 35-700 drivers.
Instead of using the 2 35-700s, should I combine those 2 strings and run in parallel with another 60-48D?
The more that I read about running multiple Meanwell drivers, the more concerned I am. At most, I will probably have 4 60-48D's and 3 35-700 drivers.
TheFishMan65
New member
IIRC the only difference between the XR-E and XP-E Royal Blues was the angle the light came out. Check the data sheet for the Vf curves. If they look the same. Measure all 4 strings at 700 ma if they are close ok. If all else fails make each string consist of 6 XR-Es and 6 XP-Es. IIRC the 42 does 4.4 amps so you can go over the limit.
brassmonkyballs
BMB
Jimmy did you ever get your new optics?
Yes, I have them from Rapid last week (I was a little shocked about the size of the XP-E lenses)
I haven't found the time yet to put them on, but if nothing intervenes it looks like it will happen tomorrow.
I also need to install 20 more little heatsinks for the XP-E blues, so it's gonna be up early and try to get the job done in one day.
I haven't found the time yet to put them on, but if nothing intervenes it looks like it will happen tomorrow.
I also need to install 20 more little heatsinks for the XP-E blues, so it's gonna be up early and try to get the job done in one day.
marinelife
Active member
what epoxy is everyone gluing the lenses on with?
brassmonkyballs
BMB
I use gel CA (super glue) but it has to be gel or an odorless CA. If you use a fast curing CA it will fog the lens of the LED and/or the optic. Oderless wold be preferred. I've used gallons of CA over the years on my radio controlled airplane hobby and have learned the hard way how to ruin clear canopies and other parts.
I put a small blob on a piece of cardboard and use a tooth pick to apply a small dot on each side of the lens. Put in place and give a slight twist to spread it while centering it.
I used epoxy on a few and switched after a few. If you want to use epoxy a 15 minute cure available from any hobby shop will do. Apply in the same manner with a small dot.
Either way with they pop off easily enough if you want to remove them.
ps. i just finished replacing 60 lenses with 90 degrees lenses on my fixture and awaiting the lighting to cycle on!
marinelife
Active member
Thanks for the reply, I have Loctite Super Glue Ultra Gel already, is that what you are referring to? Will that would?
brassmonkyballs
BMB
so long as its a gel it will cure slow enough and yes it will work. if you smell a strong odor as its curing then no don't use it. Also remember you don't need much...the lenses weigh nothing. Just a couple dots from a tooth pick,
brassmonkyballs
BMB
90 Degree lenses
90 Degree lenses
made a switch from 60 degree to 90 degree lenses today. Needless to say its a huge difference in coverage. The tank is perfectly covered for me now. The other thing to note is the color blend is much smoother and even. The dimmers are both dialed way back to the 50-60% range and the mix is much more even between the whites and blues. Without optics I had the blues much higher than the whites from a dimmer perspective. Now they are almost even and little tweaks with either one provides incredible drastic changes now. Contrasts as noted by others is terrific.
I'm a pretty happy camper at the moment.
90 Degree lenses
made a switch from 60 degree to 90 degree lenses today. Needless to say its a huge difference in coverage. The tank is perfectly covered for me now. The other thing to note is the color blend is much smoother and even. The dimmers are both dialed way back to the 50-60% range and the mix is much more even between the whites and blues. Without optics I had the blues much higher than the whites from a dimmer perspective. Now they are almost even and little tweaks with either one provides incredible drastic changes now. Contrasts as noted by others is terrific.
I'm a pretty happy camper at the moment.
- Status
