DIY LEDs - The write-up
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rcgates
Premium Member
I think that should work as long as you reduce the power supply voltage. if you have 5 Cree LEDs with a forward voltage of 3.7 V * 5 = 18.8 V so you would supply at least 20.8 V to operate. The trick is not to supply too much or to little voltage. With any voltage converter you need to limit the voltage difference the higher the difference the more power dropped in the conversion process. I have a real problem with the data sheet on the Buck puck in that it is so vague you almost have to guess what’s going on with it.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14535197#post14535197 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by EBOLII
So then what is the difference about these units and the buckpucks? Why am I unable to find those above pictured units? I can find dozen of buckpucks from different retailers.....
anyone...
These are homemade PCB boards that use a voltage regulator (Best Educated guess) configured as a constant current source. Look up a LM317 data sheet and most likely it will show how this device can be configured as a constant current source. The voltage Regulator is a very inefficient way to do this.
rcgates
Premium Member
the part is on top of their list...
http://smgsllc.com/parts.html
but , if you're looking to build your own from their work...then you'll have to buy one and reverse engineer ;-)
There is a fair number of LED driver circuits on the web, pick one you like and build it.
I expect you have also looked at those too
The Buck Pucks are whats called a DC to DC converter a much more efficient way to make a constant current source. There are several types of DC to DC converters such as Buck, Boost, etc. The Buck Puck is the Buck verity so you need to supply a higher voltage to it then what you need.
EBOLII
New member
rcgates thanks hope I didn't sound rude.
I did not associate the "Pre-wired quad board" as the actual unit. And you have a great Idea to reverse-engineer. Think it would be worth it? But then that goes back to my original Question. What is the difference between these "Pre-wired quad board" and the buckpucks or powerpuck
I did not associate the "Pre-wired quad board" as the actual unit. And you have a great Idea to reverse-engineer. Think it would be worth it? But then that goes back to my original Question. What is the difference between these "Pre-wired quad board" and the buckpucks or powerpuck
EBOLII
New member
http://www.leddynamics.com/LuxDrive/datasheets/4016-QuadPuck.pdf
these appear to be simular design and better quality
these appear to be simular design and better quality
EBOLII
New member
As I was saying I am planning for a large build [72"Length x 24"Width x 30"Deep]
And I was hoping to have One power source maybee 2. I don't want a light with X number of power cords hanging so I am in the process of understanding the design
right? I think Soundwave had the right idea and in the right direction. Just trying to improve the DIY
And I was hoping to have One power source maybee 2. I don't want a light with X number of power cords hanging so I am in the process of understanding the design
right? I think Soundwave had the right idea and in the right direction. Just trying to improve the DIY
How about this for a design:
Computer Power Supply, using the 12V outputs.
If you want 1amp on each LED, then you can run strings of 3 led's + 1 900 ohm resistor in parallel with each other, plug it in at ledcalc.com to see what I mean for a bank of 24 of them, at 3.7V, 1000ma, with a 12V supply.
Many newer power supplies run 4 or more 12V rails at 17A. 8 strings of 3 should pull around 7.5 amps, so you are well under each.
Thoughts?
Computer Power Supply, using the 12V outputs.
If you want 1amp on each LED, then you can run strings of 3 led's + 1 900 ohm resistor in parallel with each other, plug it in at ledcalc.com to see what I mean for a bank of 24 of them, at 3.7V, 1000ma, with a 12V supply.
Many newer power supplies run 4 or more 12V rails at 17A. 8 strings of 3 should pull around 7.5 amps, so you are well under each.
Thoughts?
Soundwave
New member
I'm not trying to sound negative, here, but some of you guys are making this harder than it is. I've found a great combination and it is working flawlessly. I understand that there may be a slight voltage decrease vs what is stated but the output of the fixture speaks for itself.
Even with the fixture that I made, I can still improve it on a few different levels. However, I have no need or want to.
There are dimmable versions of buckpucks that, from my understanding, can be hooked up to a controller like the Arduino. The output of the board can act as a potentiometer (dimmer) and adjust the output of the LEDs a la Solaris.
Also, as stated, the optics will help immensely with the output of the fixture. For my current needs, again, I don't want or need them, either.
My main focus for this project is to help the reefing community by allowing all of you to have the information to build your own functioning fixture that will save you money and still put out a ton of light.
I have done research with 1 and 3 watt luxeons and they just don't put out like the Crees.
Also, by all means, please improve upon or completely redesign this idea.
I am happy that this thread has become a springboard for the discussion and I hope that this technology will help all of you.
One last thing... I have a friend coming soon that will bring the meter to test the amperage draw so I can actually find out what kind of power I'm consuming.
Keep rolling with the ideas, guys. Keep in mind, though, it's true that sometimes the simplest solution can be the best.
Even with the fixture that I made, I can still improve it on a few different levels. However, I have no need or want to.
There are dimmable versions of buckpucks that, from my understanding, can be hooked up to a controller like the Arduino. The output of the board can act as a potentiometer (dimmer) and adjust the output of the LEDs a la Solaris.
Also, as stated, the optics will help immensely with the output of the fixture. For my current needs, again, I don't want or need them, either.
My main focus for this project is to help the reefing community by allowing all of you to have the information to build your own functioning fixture that will save you money and still put out a ton of light.
I have done research with 1 and 3 watt luxeons and they just don't put out like the Crees.
Also, by all means, please improve upon or completely redesign this idea.
I am happy that this thread has become a springboard for the discussion and I hope that this technology will help all of you.
One last thing... I have a friend coming soon that will bring the meter to test the amperage draw so I can actually find out what kind of power I'm consuming.
Keep rolling with the ideas, guys. Keep in mind, though, it's true that sometimes the simplest solution can be the best.
goofyreefer
Member
I have a question after reading all these posts....
Is there something wrong with the design that Soundwave is using? Is the design not being used to it's full potential or is it going beyond it's limits?
I just think if it ain't broke don't fix it.
Is there something wrong with the design that Soundwave is using? Is the design not being used to it's full potential or is it going beyond it's limits?
I just think if it ain't broke don't fix it.
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