DIY LEDs - The write-up

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tahiriqbal,

Looks cool!

I have the ability to drive 4 strings of LEDs using PWM & a microcontroller.
It uses a Rabbit Micro with 4 hardware controlled PWM circuits & some FETs.

It just doesnt work nicely with constant current drivers that are not made to be controlled.


How many LEDs did you blow out holding the constant current leads on the Stars using your hands? ;-)

DIYfolder051-1.jpg




Stu
 
I got confused too, at first he said that each section would have its own 12v 100w power supply, but then

"I would also like to know if anyone could help me or suggest what type of programmable dimmer controller I could use in conjunction above 400 watts LED driver."

400w LED driver?? If each section is going to be powered by 12v 100w supply (is that really 12v 8.3a?!?) then how is the driver going to be shared? Won't it need a matched driver for each section of LEDs?

*edit* reread and think I understand better.... He's hoping to find an LED driver capable of 400w to avoid controllers for each section. Geez that is higher than any of the stuff I've looked at for sure :)
 
Hi guys,
Thanks for being very kind and for your great comments. First of all, none of these LEDs are either Cree or Luxone as stated in my above statement. Our company is using Cree and another company¡¯s board to mount our own LED diodes. There were several reasons to use Cree boards as they were cheaper to buy from them than manufactured by our company.
We are currently in negotiation with a Chinese manufacturer who would manufacture these boards under our brand name very shortly and this way the whole LED light would be under our own brand name.
You could find the LED drivers which I have bought from China and they will be able to handle 90 watts worth of LEDs per section. Thankfully I have not blown any of my LED¡¯s as tests were done from a much smaller power supply (lol).
You could find LED driver information from following website.
http://led-power.en.alibaba.com/pro...DC12V_100W_with_Super_Thin_Aluminum_case.html
Some of the information is as following
MODEL 12V 100W-S 24V 100W-S
Input Voltage (VAC) 170-250V /90-130V
Input Frequency (Hz) 50/60 Hz
Output Voltage (VDC) 12VDC 24VDC
Output Current (constant) 8.3 A 4.2 A
Output Power (W) 100W
Short Circuit Protection Auto recovery
Overload Protection 20% exceed is allowing
Working Temperature (-10℃~+50℃)
Over current 120%
Over-voltage Protection ≤255V
Efficiency(Typ.) 85%
Thermal Protection ≤85℃
CE Safety Standard
Others Dimension
Carton Size
PCS/Carton
Housing Material
Warranty 3years

There were few questions asked from you as ideally I wanted to have only one LED driver and one dimmer controller in order to make my life simple and more manageable. Sorry if I have caused any confusion and please accept my sincere apology. I was asking for advice and help if anyone knows where I could purchase 12 volt 400 watts waterproof constant LED power driver.

Yes, I would be able to supply LED¡¯s anything ranging from 5K to 25K and you can PM for price quotes but we would only be able to sell them in batches of 20 minimum. Regarding cross flow blowers, yes they are little bit noisy and I will only be using them for prototype and if they become too much to handle then I may use standard heatsink fans to overcome noise issues.
You have also asked me how I am going to run 30 x 3watts per section which is = 90 watts worth of LEDs from 12Volt power driver. Answer is simple, 12volt is input and 100 watts is output. You could read information from the website I have highlighted.
I hope I have answered most of your question and if some of you are still confused then I be more than happy to answer to any of your questions.
 
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I'm still not feelin' it. This does not make sense to me. I would understand if you were using these as power supplies but when they are the actual drivers...

I think you're gonna need to explain a little further. I have a few problems. I don't want you to think that I'm doubting you but, well... The link you provided is nothing more than a picture and a few specs written in pidgeon-english.

Show me some more information. Wiring diagrams, examples, etc.

I'm having trouble believing this one.
 
tahiriqbal,

"First of all, none of these LEDs are either Cree or Luxone as stated in my above statement."

The DIES you show in the pic above are obviously CREE & Luxeon, so I dont know where you are coming from.....

I am currently looking right at a CREE, and the one you are applying the CC PS to is a CREE, regardless of the 'Star board' it is mounted on....


Soundwave,

"I'm having trouble believing this one."

I'm with you.

Stu
 
Would this layout be too much over a 10 gallon tank? It is essentially, 1/2 your fixture.

fixture.jpg


If you think it's just too much light, then how would you space it?

I am considering cutting out the middle two rows and only going with two rows of 6 but any help here would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Aaron
 
I was considering buying star mounting boards and LEDs separately to save about a buck a piece (at the cost of a little more labor on my part), so I can see how you could wind up with a third party LED on a cree mounting board.

lxb-k220-lattice.jpg


Here's a link for empty luxeon boards, I'd assume there are other sources of blank boards.

http://www.luxeonstar.com/led-mounting-bases-c-53.php

Eric.
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14650047#post14650047 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Soundwave
First of all, I am, by no means, an expert.

I just want to see the HOW on this.

What company do you work for?

I work for Coronodo Controls ltd UK and it is run by myself and my buiness partner.

Thanks
 
They are not Cree or Luxeon LED bulbs. We are only using Cree boards for testing but will not use in actual prototype or main lighting fixture.

The pics are to show you what I am planning to do with these LEDs.

I will post all relevant information and diagrams once system is ready and fully working.

I am also posting little project done by one of the guys who assisted me on my project. I hope it will help you.

http://picasaweb.google.co.kr/flworkd/LEDDIY#



Kind regards.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14650827#post14650827 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dogstar74
Would this layout be too much over a 10 gallon tank? It is essentially, 1/2 your fixture.

fixture.jpg


If you think it's just too much light, then how would you space it?

I am considering cutting out the middle two rows and only going with two rows of 6 but any help here would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Aaron

Yes maybe too much for 10gallon unless you are keeping SPS but I would still think it is too much light for such a small setting. Too much lighting could bleach your corals.
 
tahiriqbal,

I am still confused.

In the picture you posted above, you are saying that the LED is NOT a cree that you are applying the power supply to?

I am not talking about the star board.
I am talking about the DIE.

So it is NOT one of these:

XLamp7090XRE_175.jpg


I find it hard to believe that there is another vendor out there that makes their DIE exactly like the CREE.

And the star to the right looks surprisingly like a luxeon:

luxeon.jpg


Just an amazing coincidence if you ask me.....

Stu
 
+1 on that.

However the 100 watt led intruiges me. I wonder how efficient they are. I wouldn't think that two of them would put out more light than my entire fixture.
 
Woah, I just found this thread and I wanna say, Soundwave - great design. This is definitely a great starting-point for everyone wanting to use LEDs over their tanks.
 
One thing I see that bothers me is that the power supply he is giving the specs of:

"Output Voltage (VDC) 12VDC 24VDC
Output Current (constant) 8.3 A 4.2 A
Output Power (W) 100W"

I assume the 12/24VDC is an option?

This means that to drive "banks" of LEDs, you will need several series ( 3 LEDs in series @9Watts) strings placed in parallel to get a full 100 Watts out ( 10 strings of 3 gets you ~100W ).

The problem with a Const. Current power supply & using parallel strings is:

If JUST ONE LED goes out ( they fail open ), then that series string goes away and all the CC power goes into the other strings.
This overloads the LEDs, now you just blew out ALL of your LEDs.

By driving single strings using the CC PS, when just one LED blows out, you save all the remaining LEDs from damage.

Stu
 
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