DIY MaxiJet Stream (Pic Intense)

Good luck solving the starting direction issue! Without it you've basically made an in-tank cuisinart.. :)

jb
 
Just FYI there is a guy on E-bay that goes by Titanium Joe if you email him he can get 3/32 titanium rod.
 
grim said:
Good luck solving the starting direction issue! Without it you've basically made an in-tank cuisinart.. :)

jb
Click to expand...


hehe, can anybody say SUSHI... hehe, seriuosly though. I already have this one solved becasue someone on the other forum was havining the issue as well. The trick is to just make a stop that sticks out far enough that the blad will hit it. When the blade is turning in the correct direction, the water force causes it to slide on the rod towards the maxi. If it is spinning in the wrong direction, it slides away from the maxi... So I am going to put a stop on the bar that goes across the end and holds the rod.

As for aluminum being toxic, man I hope not, that would be a catastrophy. I will be looking for the titanium rods tonight. I know they make them as I have used them in the RC hobbie. Thanks for the comments, they all help to th edesign of the next.

Wayne
 
If you really are using Aluminum take it out please. I really dont think it can be good.

I did look up this but still im sure its not good for a closed system.

<b>Although it is chemically very reactive, aluminum resists corrosion by the formation of a self-protecting oxide coating. It is rapidly attacked by alkalies (such as lye) and by hydrochloric acid.
</b>
 
The shaft must be inert, over time the shaft *will* wear down due to the friction of the magnet assembly.

jb
 
what about a powder coated aluminum rod?


... the coating may still wear away over time i suppose.

Anyone here have access to or work at a hardware store? I would think that there would be a stainless finishing nail of sorts that could be close to the diameter needed.
 
The only thing I could find on McMaster Carr in that size was 303 stainless which I don't think will get you where you need to be. But if you are interested....

www.mcmaster.com

Part# 88915K39
 
I have another idea for the stop mod.

You could cut a flap in the PVC, and push it in a bit, so if it spins the wrong way it will hold it back, but if it spins the right way it will get pushed down... Kinda hard to explain, and I dont know if it would work, but it might.

I like the differnt hole sizes also.
 
on the next model try making the holes only on 3/4 or 2/3 of the ring to prevent vortexing air from the top, this will allow you to place the powerhead closer to the surface...skip

one other thing sch 80pvc might look better for this application, if the sizes line up right.
 
pyrrhus said:
on the next model try making the holes only on 3/4 or 2/3 of the ring to prevent vortexing air from the top, this will allow you to place the powerhead closer to the surface...skip

one other thing sch 80pvc might look better for this application, if the sizes line up right.
Click to expand...

I will keep that in mind on the next one, and I will see if I can find that particular PVC.

I almost think it needs larger holes. Correct me if I am wrong, but the vortex is caused because it can not draw enough water in quick enough. I asume the vortex would be larger with less holes. However I will do less holes on the next one just to see what happens. I can always drill more holes if nessesary.

Also wanted to give everyone an update on where I am with things. I found Titanium Joe and after doing some consideration, I am not sure the extra cost of the titanium would be worth it. The titanium comes out to about $1.32 per inch of material. that would bring it to almost $5 a shaft. I could get SS for next to nothing and have plenty left over for mor mods.

What does everyone else think,

I also have evreything worked out for the piece that holds the rod on the end as well as the propeller stop for when it spins in the wrong direction. Can't wait to get that together and let everyone see what I am going to do there. It will also be very solid rather than that flimsy piece of plastic going across.

I will probably be ordering some SS in the next few days just so I can get started with the next rendition. I will keep everyone informed.

One Last thing. I would like to say thanks to the MODS for fixing my post. They went through and broke it up so that all Pics would show up and it is greatly apreciated. I hope it helps out those who may have otherwise skipped over the thread due to having to continuously click on links.

Hope everyone has an awsome day and may God Bless you throughout it.

Wayne
 
pyrrhus said:
on the next model try making the holes only on 3/4 or 2/3 of the ring to prevent vortexing air from the top, this will allow you to place the powerhead closer to the surface...skip

one other thing sch 80pvc might look better for this application, if the sizes line up right.
Click to expand...

Actually, now I think I understand what you are saying, make it so that a small portion is solid and have that facing the top. Only problem with that, is there is no way to know exactly where to make the solid side. I may have it in the tank this way, but someone else may put it in a different way. I guess a plastic shield could be made to cover up the nessesary holes.

Wayne
 
FANTASTIC JOB :-)
Instead of using a female adaptor, would a coupler work? Maybe the interior threads help with water flow?? Just a dumb question.
 
pioneerlog said:
FANTASTIC JOB :-)
Instead of using a female adaptor, would a coupler work? Maybe the interior threads help with water flow?? Just a dumb question.
Click to expand...

I looked at several couplers and none of them would work with the cap. Keep in mind I was not really planning on using the cap the way I did but It worked ou tfor the better. I also like the look of the adapter alittle more than just the flat look of the coupler. My only problem with it was like you said, the threads on the inside, but now that I think about it, they may actually help. Becasue the inside diameter is smaller at the end than where the water comes in, making it actualy FORCE the water out rather than just blowing it through.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

All comments and suggestions are welcome.

Wayne
 
dcoufal said:
Nope.

Needs to be at least 316 Stainless Steel.

Other options, in order of increasing chemical/saltwater resistance:

Nitronic 50 Stainless Steel
Type 20 Stainless Steel
(both of the above will be incredibly difficult to find, hence the 316 recommendation)

and, the best option:

Titanium

3/32" Ti Rod is difficult to find. It's normally only available in 1/8" increments. If you can find 14AWG, you'll be incredibly close... Ti Welding rod comes to mind.


But, 316 Stainless Steel should last 12 months in a saltwater tank without difficulty.


Dwain
Click to expand...

Dwain,

Forgot to thank you for your input. I was able to find the titanium rods but the expense is not worth it to me. I am going to be ordering the SS very soon. Thanks again.

Wayne
 
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