Young Frankenstein
New member
Any Ideas where to start. Equipment etc.
DIY micro-brewery
- Thread starter Young Frankenstein
- Start date
Young Frankenstein
New member
Note : This was pedromaticos idea !
saltwaterfishlover
Active member
I used to brew up north... snowbanks are a big help....
nuh-uh!
ReefWreak seems to have a pretty good idea how to do it. I guess he's running a micro-brew out of his dorm room. Go 'Noles!
MinibowMatt
New member
rec.crafts.brewing newsgroup is an amazing resource.. by far the oldest archive of home-brewing info on the web.
If you were local I would sell you all my equip...
If you were local I would sell you all my equip...
davester1
Member
A friend of mine uses:
Brewmasters and it's on 84, just west of university on the south side of the road.
he also orders from www.homebrewadventures.com
Brewmasters and it's on 84, just west of university on the south side of the road.
he also orders from www.homebrewadventures.com
I'm using a Mr. Beer that sat in my dad's closet for the better part of the last decade. The original yeast and extract cans were still in the kit, and safe to say, when then metal top and bottom of a tin can is bulging out, you probably shouldn't use it. The expiration dates were 2001....
But anyway, Mr. Beer is a less expensive (as far as startup costs go), it's only 2.5g, which is easier to manage, easier to bottle for the carbonation part, and I really don't want to have 5 gallons of beer done at once. I don't think I will drink 5 gallons worth of beer every month unless I pick up my habit a bit more.
The best place to start if you're willing to make the initial investment (still $80-$150) for a good 5 gallon beginner kit is at a local brew store, which there HAS to be one around down there. I found one up here, and that surprised the heck out of me. They sell the same kits that can be found online for the exact same price, but no shipping, and if you want to ship them, it's expensive as heck because they're a bunch of 7 gallon paintbuckets and other equipment.
I ordered 2 Mr. Beer kits, which I heard were good, much better than the crap ones that originally come with the $20 startup kit. They ran $30. The Mr. Beer brewing keg is $10 on their site. I drank 12 Grolsch swing type bottles, so I don't have to re-cap a bunch of other bottles for the final fermentation, that ran $24. That's really all I'm going to end up spending. I might "upgrade" my sugar at some point from table sugar to dextrose, which is supposed to make the beer much better, but it's just another thing to spend money on. I'm not buying expensive tubing, or bottle brushes, or spigots that attach to the fermenter, or secondary fermenters, etc, but most of that does come with the $80 5 gallon kits (except the dextrose).
Anyway, O Aigos, I highly suggest finding a brew shop around down there and going in and talking to them, but don't let them talk you up to a high kit, you may want to upgrade later, you may not, but regardless all that would be replaced are those plastic paint buckets to $20 "carboys" which are the same thing as those office water cooler 5g buckets, except glass. Lots of different ways to approach getting started (where have I heard that before on this forum?).
Cheers
But anyway, Mr. Beer is a less expensive (as far as startup costs go), it's only 2.5g, which is easier to manage, easier to bottle for the carbonation part, and I really don't want to have 5 gallons of beer done at once. I don't think I will drink 5 gallons worth of beer every month unless I pick up my habit a bit more.
The best place to start if you're willing to make the initial investment (still $80-$150) for a good 5 gallon beginner kit is at a local brew store, which there HAS to be one around down there. I found one up here, and that surprised the heck out of me. They sell the same kits that can be found online for the exact same price, but no shipping, and if you want to ship them, it's expensive as heck because they're a bunch of 7 gallon paintbuckets and other equipment.
I ordered 2 Mr. Beer kits, which I heard were good, much better than the crap ones that originally come with the $20 startup kit. They ran $30. The Mr. Beer brewing keg is $10 on their site. I drank 12 Grolsch swing type bottles, so I don't have to re-cap a bunch of other bottles for the final fermentation, that ran $24. That's really all I'm going to end up spending. I might "upgrade" my sugar at some point from table sugar to dextrose, which is supposed to make the beer much better, but it's just another thing to spend money on. I'm not buying expensive tubing, or bottle brushes, or spigots that attach to the fermenter, or secondary fermenters, etc, but most of that does come with the $80 5 gallon kits (except the dextrose).
Anyway, O Aigos, I highly suggest finding a brew shop around down there and going in and talking to them, but don't let them talk you up to a high kit, you may want to upgrade later, you may not, but regardless all that would be replaced are those plastic paint buckets to $20 "carboys" which are the same thing as those office water cooler 5g buckets, except glass. Lots of different ways to approach getting started (where have I heard that before on this forum?).
Cheers
Young Frankenstein
New member
Thanks for the info fellas
Guys,
I've been brewing beer for 12+ years. One of he best online stores is Northern Brewer (www.northernbrewer.com). They have quality equipment and kits for the beginner (wort kits), intermediate (wort and crushed grain mix) or advanced (I.E.: all grain brewing). They also have huge starter kits for those who want to go ugly early. Get on their E-mail list - they frequently have great deals - four 5 gallon kegs for $75.00 - used and not pretty but they are for beer, not your livingroom.
There used to be a local brew club called Fort Lauderdale Area Brewers (that's right, FLAB), but I have not received an E-mail from them in several years - when the sponsoring store went out of business. If they still exist, I'll post a message.
With beer, sanitation is everything. One bit of contamination and the entire batch is ruined - I have dumped a couple of 5 gallon batches into the drain because someting got into the fermenter and - PRESTO! Instant penecillin (mold).
Anyway, call or write if you have questions - I have tried a lot of different things and may save you the trouble of making the same mistakes I have.
Mike
I've been brewing beer for 12+ years. One of he best online stores is Northern Brewer (www.northernbrewer.com). They have quality equipment and kits for the beginner (wort kits), intermediate (wort and crushed grain mix) or advanced (I.E.: all grain brewing). They also have huge starter kits for those who want to go ugly early. Get on their E-mail list - they frequently have great deals - four 5 gallon kegs for $75.00 - used and not pretty but they are for beer, not your livingroom.
There used to be a local brew club called Fort Lauderdale Area Brewers (that's right, FLAB), but I have not received an E-mail from them in several years - when the sponsoring store went out of business. If they still exist, I'll post a message.
With beer, sanitation is everything. One bit of contamination and the entire batch is ruined - I have dumped a couple of 5 gallon batches into the drain because someting got into the fermenter and - PRESTO! Instant penecillin (mold).
Anyway, call or write if you have questions - I have tried a lot of different things and may save you the trouble of making the same mistakes I have.
Mike
Yea I made my first batch yesterday afternoon. I was terrified about not having everything sterile enough. I soaked everything in bleach and water for like 30 minutes, the first 10 minutes the temp was in the 115 range, then it lowered to the 95 range. I boiled up the UME and pre-made brew extract (it's from Mr. Beer, so yeah), then poured them into the 2.5g keg, kept adding tap water from the sterilized measuring cup, mixed it up a bunch with a plastic cooking spoon that was sterilized as well. I even sterilized the can opener. I let it sit for 5 minutes after putting the yeast in once the hot/warm wort was into the keg, then I mixed ferociously, then capped it, let it sit for about an hour, then put it away in my room and cleaned up the mess from the disgustingly sticky UME and concentrates.
Today it's got a nice foam head on the top of it, and I can smell beer from the gheeto Mr. Beer airlock system, so I think we're going well. We will see in 14 days.
Is there a way to find out if it went stale or didn't work out right before you bottle and carbonate it?
BTW it smelled like sugary molasses when I made it. it smelled so sweet it made me want to vomit. But the smell from the airlock actually smells like delicious beer though. I made the heffewisse beer (white beer, like fraziskainer), so it should be a decent brew when done. The next batch will be the Hoegaarten Witbier.
Today it's got a nice foam head on the top of it, and I can smell beer from the gheeto Mr. Beer airlock system, so I think we're going well. We will see in 14 days.
Is there a way to find out if it went stale or didn't work out right before you bottle and carbonate it?
BTW it smelled like sugary molasses when I made it. it smelled so sweet it made me want to vomit. But the smell from the airlock actually smells like delicious beer though. I made the heffewisse beer (white beer, like fraziskainer), so it should be a decent brew when done. The next batch will be the Hoegaarten Witbier.
The foam is a good sign - the yeast made it through the initial stage and is fermenting the beer - changing the sugar into alcohol one bit at a time. Many times the yeast is added to wort that is too hot and is killed. I have used a wort chiller, but I find it better to make up some ice cubes beforehad and add them to the wort to cool it quickly - then add filtered water to top off the mix and pitch the yeast.
The best way to check your progression is to get a Specific gravity hydrometer or hydro/thermometer. This will measure sthe specific gravity, Brix/Balling (English measurements) and potential alcohol. If you have a refractometer, there is a conversion scale from SG to Brix to Balling on Wikipedia (1.025 is 6.32 brix). I don't know what scale the kit you are using calls for.
After the fermentation slows (after the first week or so), do a daily check and see when the SG stops changing. Once it is stable for two days - it's ready to bottle (or keg in your case). The Mr. Beer kits have premeasured priming sugar - Correct? I always premix my wort with the priming sugar in a second bucket prior to kegging as this allows two things - you can restrain the beer so it will be clearer (though the heffewisse will have a cloudy look) and it allows a homogeneous mixture of the wort. For those of us who bottle, some add a measured amount to each bottle or keg (the amounts differ significantly and do not correlate well) and I have seen more than one popped cap or broken (blown up) bottle.
It sounds like the batch will come out well. Prost!
The best way to check your progression is to get a Specific gravity hydrometer or hydro/thermometer. This will measure sthe specific gravity, Brix/Balling (English measurements) and potential alcohol. If you have a refractometer, there is a conversion scale from SG to Brix to Balling on Wikipedia (1.025 is 6.32 brix). I don't know what scale the kit you are using calls for.
After the fermentation slows (after the first week or so), do a daily check and see when the SG stops changing. Once it is stable for two days - it's ready to bottle (or keg in your case). The Mr. Beer kits have premeasured priming sugar - Correct? I always premix my wort with the priming sugar in a second bucket prior to kegging as this allows two things - you can restrain the beer so it will be clearer (though the heffewisse will have a cloudy look) and it allows a homogeneous mixture of the wort. For those of us who bottle, some add a measured amount to each bottle or keg (the amounts differ significantly and do not correlate well) and I have seen more than one popped cap or broken (blown up) bottle.
It sounds like the batch will come out well. Prost!
I used the alton brown method of measuring EVERYTHING YOU DO with a thermometer, so I made sure the temp was a nice peaceful 78 before the yeast went in. I believe that's the ideal temp for yeast. I've now got the cooking thermometer sitting next to the keg to tell me the temps around it, so I can make sure it doesn't get too warm or too cold (though I do worry about it going down to the 60s during the night. We don't pay the power bill being in the dorms, so people tend to crank the AC.
I don't think that I'll measure the SG to be honest, because it's just one more complicated step, and even then I don't know what the SG is supposed to be, because Mr. Beer isn't an exact science.
I like the idea of the bottling bucket, but for now I'm going to make it work with just the primary fermenter and use just table sugar into 16oz grolsch swing type bottles. As I go along, I'll do secondary fermentation and filtering and such so I get a cleaner end product, but for now, meh.
They do not have premeasured priming sugar. They tell you 1 teaspoon for 16oz, and to use table sugar, although I do want to get dextrose instead, since it's supposed to taste or work better or something like that. Any advice? Would it be the same quantity as sugar, or is there a seperate ratio?
Thanks
I don't think that I'll measure the SG to be honest, because it's just one more complicated step, and even then I don't know what the SG is supposed to be, because Mr. Beer isn't an exact science.
I like the idea of the bottling bucket, but for now I'm going to make it work with just the primary fermenter and use just table sugar into 16oz grolsch swing type bottles. As I go along, I'll do secondary fermentation and filtering and such so I get a cleaner end product, but for now, meh.
They do not have premeasured priming sugar. They tell you 1 teaspoon for 16oz, and to use table sugar, although I do want to get dextrose instead, since it's supposed to taste or work better or something like that. Any advice? Would it be the same quantity as sugar, or is there a seperate ratio?
Thanks
MinibowMatt
New member
for the 9 years I have been brewing, I never got a bad infection from lack of sanitation. Sanitation is important, but 30 min in bleach/water is a long time for your equip.
I used onestep for most everything and iodophor for everything else. Iodophor is an awesome sanitizer, 3-5 min contact, drip it dry and its ready to go...
Temps are important also, you will find some yeast form different "flavors" at less than ideal temps (hi or low). I suggest you start with an extract kit, and move from there. a good homebrew shop/club would be a great asset too. Also stick to a good, hardy dry yeast until you know what your doing. They are more stable than the liquid cultures, and will be more forgiving to temp swings...Try Nottingham for most of your ales in the beginning. Very forgiving yeast. Not too many flavors in low temps, and it will stay fairly active if your fermenter drops into the 60's...
Definetly consider going with corny kegs asap... you will never look back.
GL with the MR. Beer, I started with it, got a half decent batch out of it, and then I was hooked!
I tried to make my own rasberry wheat in the Mr. Beer too... that blew up all over the closet... dont try that...what a mess.
FYI- if you havent bought more MR Beer kits, dont. go find a shop and talk to them about extracts. You can grab a glass carboy for 20$ and an airlock and your in the house (providing you have a brew pot already) Also, go for the turkey fryer to boil with, a home stove will take forever.
Its funny, I just opened a 5 year old Choc Stout I made, because a friend wanted to try it. It was SOOOO much better than when I made it... it almost wanted to make me brew another....but I cant drink beer anymore...(health issue) so it was just a tease....
GL if you have any Q's hit me up.
I used onestep for most everything and iodophor for everything else. Iodophor is an awesome sanitizer, 3-5 min contact, drip it dry and its ready to go...
Temps are important also, you will find some yeast form different "flavors" at less than ideal temps (hi or low). I suggest you start with an extract kit, and move from there. a good homebrew shop/club would be a great asset too. Also stick to a good, hardy dry yeast until you know what your doing. They are more stable than the liquid cultures, and will be more forgiving to temp swings...Try Nottingham for most of your ales in the beginning. Very forgiving yeast. Not too many flavors in low temps, and it will stay fairly active if your fermenter drops into the 60's...
Definetly consider going with corny kegs asap... you will never look back.
GL with the MR. Beer, I started with it, got a half decent batch out of it, and then I was hooked!
I tried to make my own rasberry wheat in the Mr. Beer too... that blew up all over the closet... dont try that...what a mess.
FYI- if you havent bought more MR Beer kits, dont. go find a shop and talk to them about extracts. You can grab a glass carboy for 20$ and an airlock and your in the house (providing you have a brew pot already) Also, go for the turkey fryer to boil with, a home stove will take forever.
Its funny, I just opened a 5 year old Choc Stout I made, because a friend wanted to try it. It was SOOOO much better than when I made it... it almost wanted to make me brew another....but I cant drink beer anymore...(health issue) so it was just a tease....
GL if you have any Q's hit me up.
Last edited:
MinibowMatt
New member
Depending what got in, you could end up with a nice malt vinegar!
Thanks for the heads up
I bought 2 kits, a heffewisse, and a "premium" kit to make a hoegaarten type batch. The first was bought as a "I'll try it, see if it works, see how well it works, and hopefully I do it right" and the second kit was a "now that I've toyed with it and made one batch, lets see if I can do it better this time" batch. If both kits go well, I'm going to full blown with the whole glass carboy kit.
The only problem right now is that I'm only in the dorm until April or May, so I don't have too many weeks to make too many batches.
And that I'll have to drink a whole bunch more Grolsch to have enough bottles for a 5g bucket worth. I'm excited to do second fermentations and carbonation down the road, especially with not having to add the sugar to each bottle, then beer, then close, and so on. I'd like to be able to just mix in the sugar into the main container, then stick it in the bottles when it's all brewed, but you don't want to get too much settled yeast into the bottles, so that's why I wouldn't just throw the sugar into the Mr. Beer.
I bought 2 kits, a heffewisse, and a "premium" kit to make a hoegaarten type batch. The first was bought as a "I'll try it, see if it works, see how well it works, and hopefully I do it right" and the second kit was a "now that I've toyed with it and made one batch, lets see if I can do it better this time" batch. If both kits go well, I'm going to full blown with the whole glass carboy kit.
The only problem right now is that I'm only in the dorm until April or May, so I don't have too many weeks to make too many batches.
And that I'll have to drink a whole bunch more Grolsch to have enough bottles for a 5g bucket worth. I'm excited to do second fermentations and carbonation down the road, especially with not having to add the sugar to each bottle, then beer, then close, and so on. I'd like to be able to just mix in the sugar into the main container, then stick it in the bottles when it's all brewed, but you don't want to get too much settled yeast into the bottles, so that's why I wouldn't just throw the sugar into the Mr. Beer.
bureau13
New member
I had a Mr. Beer starter kit a while back...and I did the Grolsch swing-top thing too!
Never really cared for the results of the Mr. Beer stuff though, it just tasted off to me. I don't know if it was bacteria, or I just didn't like the results. Hopefully yours will work out better!
jds
Never really cared for the results of the Mr. Beer stuff though, it just tasted off to me. I don't know if it was bacteria, or I just didn't like the results. Hopefully yours will work out better!
jds
I've been using the Grolsch swing tops and mini (2.5L) kegs for years (I like the replacement process as well - I just order a case and drink it waiting for my next batch to brew). The swing tops are nice, but the rubber seals shoudl be replaced whenever they look cracked or begin to dry out - I keep spares on hand whenever I bottle.
The bottling bucket is a great investment if you are going to carry on with this. It makes it easier to add the sugar (Use dextrose or dry malt) and then use the spigot to fill each bottle. I have used a spring tip bottle filler for years and it is indespensible. A bottle washer that hooks up to a faucet will be usefull in the future as well, as will a drying rack, though I just use my dishwasher rack for drying.
For the yeast, the optimum tempature depends on the yeast and the style of beer you are making. Ales are top fermented and the yeast is active between 65 - 85 deg, lagers are bottom fermenting and are active in a range from 50-65 deg F. There are other styles as well but 90 % fall into those two. Your yeast should have the optimum temp on the package - I prefer White Labs or Wyeast - they come in a "smack pack", a package woth two seperate (internal) containers - you "smack" the pack to activate the yeast, wait 12-24 hours, then pitch the yeast. It is a liquid yeast that is already active and hase more active cells than any dry yeast I have ever used.
Concerning the local stores - I will use them when I need to however (like the LFS) they need to make a profit, bay their bills, etc., and I have yet to find one that can beat a mail-order price, especially on hops and yeast. I have used them in the past if I need a last minute item, but rarely.
Last item - go to the library and get the book "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing" (or buy it online for $14.95). It gives a great rundown of what the beer is doing, why the temperature and sanitation are so important, and even gives some basic to intermediate ideas for brewing. It's a good read as well although the copy I have is pretty dated (as I am).
Like ReefKeeping - you can go from basic (a tank and sump) to immersed (kegging equipment, fridge for laggering, CO2 or Nitrogen equipment, grain mashers, etc.) but whatever you do - Have FUN!
The bottling bucket is a great investment if you are going to carry on with this. It makes it easier to add the sugar (Use dextrose or dry malt) and then use the spigot to fill each bottle. I have used a spring tip bottle filler for years and it is indespensible. A bottle washer that hooks up to a faucet will be usefull in the future as well, as will a drying rack, though I just use my dishwasher rack for drying.
For the yeast, the optimum tempature depends on the yeast and the style of beer you are making. Ales are top fermented and the yeast is active between 65 - 85 deg, lagers are bottom fermenting and are active in a range from 50-65 deg F. There are other styles as well but 90 % fall into those two. Your yeast should have the optimum temp on the package - I prefer White Labs or Wyeast - they come in a "smack pack", a package woth two seperate (internal) containers - you "smack" the pack to activate the yeast, wait 12-24 hours, then pitch the yeast. It is a liquid yeast that is already active and hase more active cells than any dry yeast I have ever used.
Concerning the local stores - I will use them when I need to however (like the LFS) they need to make a profit, bay their bills, etc., and I have yet to find one that can beat a mail-order price, especially on hops and yeast. I have used them in the past if I need a last minute item, but rarely.
Last item - go to the library and get the book "The Complete Joy of Homebrewing" (or buy it online for $14.95). It gives a great rundown of what the beer is doing, why the temperature and sanitation are so important, and even gives some basic to intermediate ideas for brewing. It's a good read as well although the copy I have is pretty dated (as I am).
Like ReefKeeping - you can go from basic (a tank and sump) to immersed (kegging equipment, fridge for laggering, CO2 or Nitrogen equipment, grain mashers, etc.) but whatever you do - Have FUN!
I almost forgot - DO NOT USE TABLE SUGAR. I made that mistake once and, although the beer tasted good, it was virtually non-alcoholic. It carbonated well, had a good head and taste, but almost no alcohol - this is the only time that as happened so I attributed it to the sugar.
Dextrose does well or use dry malt. The malt lends a little more flavor to the beer and is great in a Scottish Wee Heavy, Scottish 80/- or Porter where dextrose is better for a "sweeter" beer like a Rasberry Wheat or Cherry Stout.
If you make it to the next FMAS meeting we can talk there.
Mike
Dextrose does well or use dry malt. The malt lends a little more flavor to the beer and is great in a Scottish Wee Heavy, Scottish 80/- or Porter where dextrose is better for a "sweeter" beer like a Rasberry Wheat or Cherry Stout.
If you make it to the next FMAS meeting we can talk there.
Mike
