freddie40
New member
I have experimented with Ozone over the last 4 years and I finally have hit upon a formula that works well. So I thought I would share my setup with you.
1)Read Randy Holmes-Farley's articles on ozone.
2)Reread Randy's articles.
Now that you have read those here is my system.
1)I use a Coralife Luft pump that I run at full blast.
2)Using silicone tubing the air goes to an Air dryer that I got from Bulk reef supply. This air dryer can handle the back pressure that is generated.
3)Next is a RedSea 50MG/Hr Ozonizer that I run at 50 MG/Hr and have set to turn off with the ORP reaches 380.
In my sump I have a Eheim 1262 pump that I use for my return. I have the return split in to and one side goes to the ozone reactor. Before the water gets to the Turbo Venturi I have a ball valve (to turn off the pump if necessary, otherwise fully open) and a check valve (to make sure ozone does not reenter my system).
4)The air exits the Ozonizer and after a 4 foot run (broken by an ozone safe check valve) enters a Kent Turbo Venturi where it is mixed with the water.
5)Add another ball valve before the Ozone reactor. This is in case I want to remove the reactor, I can close the valve to keep the water in. I normally keep it fully open.
6)The mixture of air and water finally enters the ozone reactor. I built this using 2 feet of 4 inch PVC capped at both ends and filled (a couple of handfuls short) with bioballs lightly tossed in. I figure the total volume of this chamber is .75 gallons.
7)At the exit of the Reactor is another ball valve (to control the amount of water through the system).
8)After it exits the system the water goes though a Carbon reactor and the exits the system.
9)The ORP probe is in my overflow.
All of that being said here's the trick. The airflow is at full blast, the ozone is at full blast. However, I want to choke back the water flow so that there is just 50 gallons per hour exiting the Carbon reactor. I use the ball valve at the exit of the ozone reactor to control this flow. Because the exit is blocked and the flow is high pressure builds up (a bit) and the ozone "œshould" react with the water better under pressure. Why 50 gallons per hour. I want the flow rate to be 0.3 mg/L so with my system 50mg/189 liters per hour = 0.265. A little bit short of 0.3 recommended minimum, but close enough for me.
I am assuming that I am getting 50mg per hour. Because of the back pressure of the air the 50mg may be off, but since I have no way to check I will have to use that figure. Reaction time is approximately 37 seconds through the Ozone rector (figuring that the chamber holds .75 gallons and the flow rate is 50 gallons per hour). The minimum reaction time should be 30 seconds.
How does it work: I am very happy with the results. Given that my system has a total volume of 80 gallons of water (75 gallon tank + 25 gallon sump "“ rock, etc) and that 50mg ozonizer may be small for my system. After about 1 month of use (after adding the air dryer) my ORP has risen from 285 to 353. My water is visibly clear, the algae seems to be going away and the corals look better. Before I had the air dryer I could only get the ORP up to about 320. The Air Dryer was a very good addition.
What would I do differently. I would reverse engineer my project. I guess the limiting factor in my case would be space. I only have room for a 2 foot piece of PVC, 4 inches in diameter. Thus the total volume is .75 gallons so the maximum flow rate is probably about 60 gallons per hour. If I had a 100mg Ozone generator I would have a flow rate of 0.44mg/l, or closer to the the high and of recommendations which is .5mg/l.
Cost:
Coralife Luft pump: $64.99
Ozonizer: Red Sea AquaZone Deluxe 50 mg/hr ozonizer: $429
Air Dryer: $59.99
Kent Turbo Venturi: $19.99
Carbon Reactor: I use a Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor $31.99
Ozone Reactor, Ball Valves, Check Valves + Ozone Safe Tubing: About $100
1)Read Randy Holmes-Farley's articles on ozone.
2)Reread Randy's articles.
Now that you have read those here is my system.
1)I use a Coralife Luft pump that I run at full blast.
2)Using silicone tubing the air goes to an Air dryer that I got from Bulk reef supply. This air dryer can handle the back pressure that is generated.
3)Next is a RedSea 50MG/Hr Ozonizer that I run at 50 MG/Hr and have set to turn off with the ORP reaches 380.
In my sump I have a Eheim 1262 pump that I use for my return. I have the return split in to and one side goes to the ozone reactor. Before the water gets to the Turbo Venturi I have a ball valve (to turn off the pump if necessary, otherwise fully open) and a check valve (to make sure ozone does not reenter my system).
4)The air exits the Ozonizer and after a 4 foot run (broken by an ozone safe check valve) enters a Kent Turbo Venturi where it is mixed with the water.
5)Add another ball valve before the Ozone reactor. This is in case I want to remove the reactor, I can close the valve to keep the water in. I normally keep it fully open.
6)The mixture of air and water finally enters the ozone reactor. I built this using 2 feet of 4 inch PVC capped at both ends and filled (a couple of handfuls short) with bioballs lightly tossed in. I figure the total volume of this chamber is .75 gallons.
7)At the exit of the Reactor is another ball valve (to control the amount of water through the system).
8)After it exits the system the water goes though a Carbon reactor and the exits the system.
9)The ORP probe is in my overflow.
All of that being said here's the trick. The airflow is at full blast, the ozone is at full blast. However, I want to choke back the water flow so that there is just 50 gallons per hour exiting the Carbon reactor. I use the ball valve at the exit of the ozone reactor to control this flow. Because the exit is blocked and the flow is high pressure builds up (a bit) and the ozone "œshould" react with the water better under pressure. Why 50 gallons per hour. I want the flow rate to be 0.3 mg/L so with my system 50mg/189 liters per hour = 0.265. A little bit short of 0.3 recommended minimum, but close enough for me.
I am assuming that I am getting 50mg per hour. Because of the back pressure of the air the 50mg may be off, but since I have no way to check I will have to use that figure. Reaction time is approximately 37 seconds through the Ozone rector (figuring that the chamber holds .75 gallons and the flow rate is 50 gallons per hour). The minimum reaction time should be 30 seconds.
How does it work: I am very happy with the results. Given that my system has a total volume of 80 gallons of water (75 gallon tank + 25 gallon sump "“ rock, etc) and that 50mg ozonizer may be small for my system. After about 1 month of use (after adding the air dryer) my ORP has risen from 285 to 353. My water is visibly clear, the algae seems to be going away and the corals look better. Before I had the air dryer I could only get the ORP up to about 320. The Air Dryer was a very good addition.
What would I do differently. I would reverse engineer my project. I guess the limiting factor in my case would be space. I only have room for a 2 foot piece of PVC, 4 inches in diameter. Thus the total volume is .75 gallons so the maximum flow rate is probably about 60 gallons per hour. If I had a 100mg Ozone generator I would have a flow rate of 0.44mg/l, or closer to the the high and of recommendations which is .5mg/l.
Cost:
Coralife Luft pump: $64.99
Ozonizer: Red Sea AquaZone Deluxe 50 mg/hr ozonizer: $429
Air Dryer: $59.99
Kent Turbo Venturi: $19.99
Carbon Reactor: I use a Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor $31.99
Ozone Reactor, Ball Valves, Check Valves + Ozone Safe Tubing: About $100
