DIY Stand Help

[Devilphish]

So, I've finished a new stand for my tank.

Welp, I guess I got a little sanding or saw happy. Looks like I made the stand top depth short by almost 1/4". Not sure how it happened, been measuring the whole time, but here we are. Not sure how I'm going to handle this, but time to come up with some ideas. I really don't want to just slap another sheet of 1/2" on top, but trying to take off the current top will just lead to more problems.

So the question I have that hopefully one of you can answer is if I tack on a strip on the back of the stand to cover the overhang, how tall, top of stand down back does it need to be and is there any certain screws/nails/fasteners I should use. Again, it is "only" 1/4" of overhang but the front and back glass panels do not sit on top of the bottom of the tank.

 

[wvned]

Maybe. I have doubled a back rail to make a stand deeper. I screwed and bolted it on. 55 Gallon tank.
You haven't told us how big the tank is or how the stand is made or what it is made from.

Fine furniture or a Rocket plan stand?
If you put a piece on the rear it will be subject to a force twisting it off. It cant transfer the weight down to the floor. It has to be fastened to something very thoroughly that is strong enough to hold it. You could add a 3/4 by 4 inch wide piece to the back and it would do what you want. I would drill it and countersink the holes and use screws every 6 inches.
That would probably work up to a 75 gallon tank.
I would be tempted to put one inside the front as well so the front and back have equal stiffness.

Small tank is easy, bigger ones not so much.

 

[Devilphish]

Thanks for the reply. Tank is approximately L 35.5" x W 23.625" x H 11.75" for volume of 43 gallons. I never took pictures when I started the project so these are halfway through the build. If I remember correctly the 1x's are poplar and the 2x2's may be pine but I can't recall.

 

[wvned]

What if you made a false frame for the top that met the edges on 3 sides and was slightly longer in the back. Route the edges to make it interesting. Most tanks are only supported around the perimeter.
or
If there is an inset frame on the back like the front you would have to fill the top edge flush with the solid top and then place a second piece over it for the width and then run screw through both those pieces into the back.
or
If you have a frameless tank that needs full bottom support and a mat I think I would go over the entire top but with 3/4 inch plywood.
or
Practice makes perfect. Build another one and use that on as an occasional table.

My father in law was a carpenter. He was fond of telling me the wood products we pay so much for now were all considered junk softwood back in the day, used to make concrete forms or temporary scaffolding that was discarded after use.

 

[Devilphish]

Was thinking getting a 2x4, routing out 3/4” and mounting to back with structural screws for the inside. 3/4” under lip and 3/4” under tank edge.

 

[griss]

I can’t add anything @wvned hasn't already said.

 

[kharmaguru]

I'd nail and glue a 1/4" piece of flat stock on the sides and back and call it a day.