Aqua Keepers
New member
miwoodar, the link on pg1 for the rc car tie-rod is dead. Can you help me out? I ordered two motors from the guy on eBay.
DIY Swirler Stein
- Thread starter miwoodar
- Start date
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
These look pretty close (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXSGU2&P=7). They might be a touch longer than you need, I can't tell. If they are you'll need to shorten them a little (wire clippers).
In case the link dies....Traxxas Turnbuckles Camber Link 36mm
I got mine from a local RC shop. I went in and asked for their cheapest options and came out for $5.
In case the link dies....Traxxas Turnbuckles Camber Link 36mm
I got mine from a local RC shop. I went in and asked for their cheapest options and came out for $5.
Aqua Keepers
New member
what about these? Looks like 4 for $4 & no shipping cost if you use USPS Mail or UPS Ground!!!
http://www.hobby-estore.com/11tierod204p.html
http://www.hobby-estore.com/11tierod204p.html
Last edited:
Powerhead Swivel units
Powerhead Swivel units
http://tinyurl.com/5b5ak8
These units have a heavy duty motor with a 90 degree swing.
Comes with a prewired on-off switch and an outlet for the powerhead to plug into (handles 1500 W heaters so is heavy duty enough for our usage).
Remove the plate the heater sits on, extend the existing central tube with a piece of 1/2" PVC and connect your powerhead.
Little construction skill needed even if you take all the parts out and build your own mounting box.
Forgot to mention. The ebay post isn't mine. It's just the only place I could find a usable photo / description. I bought mine at a local hardware store, but I've never seen them again.
Powerhead Swivel units
http://tinyurl.com/5b5ak8
These units have a heavy duty motor with a 90 degree swing.
Comes with a prewired on-off switch and an outlet for the powerhead to plug into (handles 1500 W heaters so is heavy duty enough for our usage).
Remove the plate the heater sits on, extend the existing central tube with a piece of 1/2" PVC and connect your powerhead.
Little construction skill needed even if you take all the parts out and build your own mounting box.
Forgot to mention. The ebay post isn't mine. It's just the only place I could find a usable photo / description. I bought mine at a local hardware store, but I've never seen them again.
Aqua Keepers
New member
Anyone understand that^^^???
Wanna break it down??
Wanna break it down??
It is a rotating device to rotate home heating device back and fore to provide better heat distributions. You just place your home heater on the plate. You must be thinking of aquarium heater instead. So I guess if you take off the top plate and mount the pipe, then put it upside down, you can use it to rotate your powerhead.
It is a pre-built unit that can be used to do exactly the same thing the DIY units described here will do.
Take the plate off where the heater would sit.
There is a small tube sticking up in the center -- it is driven by the motor.
Super glue a piece of PVC to that tube (make the tube as long a you need to mount the unit out of the water and ensure the powerhead will be in the water).
Mount the Powerhead on the other end of the PVC.
Mount the unit => upside down so the PH is in the water and the base uint isn't.
Plug the PH into the outlet on the unit.
Plug the base unit into an outlet and turn it on.
It's just simpler than building one.
Or as mentioned, take it apart and you will have the motor, switch, outlet, etc already wired. Put it in a utility box as in this thread.
I paid $5 ea for 10 of these at the end of winter so they were much cheaper than other sources of the motors.
Take the plate off where the heater would sit.
There is a small tube sticking up in the center -- it is driven by the motor.
Super glue a piece of PVC to that tube (make the tube as long a you need to mount the unit out of the water and ensure the powerhead will be in the water).
Mount the Powerhead on the other end of the PVC.
Mount the unit => upside down so the PH is in the water and the base uint isn't.
Plug the PH into the outlet on the unit.
Plug the base unit into an outlet and turn it on.
It's just simpler than building one.
Or as mentioned, take it apart and you will have the motor, switch, outlet, etc already wired. Put it in a utility box as in this thread.
I paid $5 ea for 10 of these at the end of winter so they were much cheaper than other sources of the motors.
Aqua Keepers
New member
I get it now. It's pretty awesome!! Any probs mounting it upside down? What are the dims?
lovetoreef
New member
couldn't you also mount it upright and simply do a connecting arm to a down pipe and avoid having to mount it upside down??
lovetoreef
New member
regarding the connection lengths, could we do a longer connecting link (larger gap between the motor and down tube) as long as the connecting link length plus the PVC pipe arm is longer than the length of the ground and motor arm??
Unit is 6 1/2" x 5 3/4" x 2".
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/1/94609PvtBtmPostable.jpg
Motor on Right bottom, outlet on left bottom, orange device is a safety switch (held closed by a plunger when the unit is in use as a heater base - have to bypass / remove / tape down - ), on - off switch in center top.
Takes 10 seconds to swing 90 degrees.
http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/1/94609PvtBtmPostable.jpg
Motor on Right bottom, outlet on left bottom, orange device is a safety switch (held closed by a plunger when the unit is in use as a heater base - have to bypass / remove / tape down - ), on - off switch in center top.
Takes 10 seconds to swing 90 degrees.
TorontoBoy
New member
any pics upday
DeathWish302
Clown Hoarder
miwoodar-
I'm @ home for Turkey Day and travel next week, but I will get the spreadsheet when I return next weekend.
DW302
I'm @ home for Turkey Day and travel next week, but I will get the spreadsheet when I return next weekend.
DW302
dngspot
Premium Member
The bushing design has proven to be a bit of a problem. I did get them to work and they are not such a problem at this time but they have failed several times and will require servicing them with grease to keep them running smoothly. So the solution was to get sealed bearings and use them. These are for a fellow some one here on RC that asked me to build them for him. I have made the guy wait for a wile, so I could work out any problems. This is the solution to several. Thanks miwoodar for the idea but, partner I just cannot wrap my mind around how you installed your bearings so this is how I did it.
I took new pvc down tubes to work and machined them down to accept a bearing. This can be done with a dremmel but it took much less time using the lathe. The lathe did not do such a good job cutting the O.D. but it did leave a nice step.
Here is the down tube with the bearing on it. The down tube is a little larger than the I.D. of the bearing so the down tube is held in place by the bearing, it can be removed by pulling with a little muscle but, will not come out by the weight of the power head.
I had to pop the bushings off of the box, both the one on the inside of the box and the one on the outside of the box. The super glue came apart pretty easy. I had to grind the area that the glue was at. The down tube is lowered from the top of the box and rest on the bottom. It is held in place by two screws and a acrylic bracket. The hole in the bottom of the box is wide enough to allow the bearing inner race to move with out contacting the box.
Here it is in its finished form
These are the finished units for the fellow I mentioned earlier.
I took new pvc down tubes to work and machined them down to accept a bearing. This can be done with a dremmel but it took much less time using the lathe. The lathe did not do such a good job cutting the O.D. but it did leave a nice step.
Here is the down tube with the bearing on it. The down tube is a little larger than the I.D. of the bearing so the down tube is held in place by the bearing, it can be removed by pulling with a little muscle but, will not come out by the weight of the power head.
I had to pop the bushings off of the box, both the one on the inside of the box and the one on the outside of the box. The super glue came apart pretty easy. I had to grind the area that the glue was at. The down tube is lowered from the top of the box and rest on the bottom. It is held in place by two screws and a acrylic bracket. The hole in the bottom of the box is wide enough to allow the bearing inner race to move with out contacting the box.
Here it is in its finished form
These are the finished units for the fellow I mentioned earlier.
Similar threads
