DIY Swirler Stein
- Thread starter miwoodar
- Start date
james3370
Premium Member
what i originally thought of wanting was a spraybar that went horizontial that would rotate up & down...but couldn't think of a way to make it rotate.
then i had a idea....gonna try & think of some way to attach the pvc spraybar to the guts of a hydor flow deflector. i think that might just work
*thinking
then i had a idea....gonna try & think of some way to attach the pvc spraybar to the guts of a hydor flow deflector. i think that might just work
*thinking
adamblackburn22
New member
Just put my current Ph setup forsale. I really want one of these. Does anyone have a link to the motor they used? I don't really want to deal with ebay so if someone has another source I would be greatful!
"Umm fish?"
Premium Member
Yeah, I'd bet that I can't reduce the motor speed with the voltage, but 2.5-3.0 RPM might be slow enough for my needs. We'll see.
Thanks!
dngspot
Premium Member
One small problem raised its head. Well I thought it would. It was the noisy motor. It just kept binding. A week ago I contacted the vendor and told them one of the motors were noisy. I even told him that I glued a arm to the motor and was not using for what they are intended for. He said no problem and one was in my mail box with in the week. How is that for service? Not all eBay vendors are out to rip you off.
I installed the new motor and every thing seems smooth and silent. I will know if it is going to bind within the night. The motor on the left side has not missed a beat.
I installed the new motor and every thing seems smooth and silent. I will know if it is going to bind within the night. The motor on the left side has not missed a beat.
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
Andy - I think they will burn up if you hook them to 110volts.
I rebuilt my second swirler stein last night using the sealed bearing approach. I was kind of in a rush and didn't give it the full spit and polish treatment (please excuse the fact that the box, motor, everything is dirty in the pics - if I had more time I would have cleaned everything up better). This motor is over two years old. It is the same one that went for a swim last year...hence the dirty appearance. Also, I cut about an inch off of the height of the project box so it would be low enough to squeeze into the spot without making contact with my hood. The lid still fit. You can see in the pics that I used my old arm as a reference to build the new one.
For mounting, I put the down tube through one of the holes in my eurobrace and used velcro to hold the box in place. I then slipped the MJ mount that had been glued to the end of the downtube into the MJ slot. The dremeling on the downtube could have been a little cleaner.
I rebuilt my second swirler stein last night using the sealed bearing approach. I was kind of in a rush and didn't give it the full spit and polish treatment (please excuse the fact that the box, motor, everything is dirty in the pics - if I had more time I would have cleaned everything up better). This motor is over two years old. It is the same one that went for a swim last year...hence the dirty appearance. Also, I cut about an inch off of the height of the project box so it would be low enough to squeeze into the spot without making contact with my hood. The lid still fit. You can see in the pics that I used my old arm as a reference to build the new one.
For mounting, I put the down tube through one of the holes in my eurobrace and used velcro to hold the box in place. I then slipped the MJ mount that had been glued to the end of the downtube into the MJ slot. The dremeling on the downtube could have been a little cleaner.
Last edited:
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
The ID is 3/4". OD is 1.575". I got them from Racergirlsrock on e-bay. They have some for sale right now via auction number 250305495785. Two for $10 shipped.
The nut is a 3/4" ID.
I used a piece of 1/2" sprinkler pipe (the wall thickness seems a little thicker than regular PVC) for the downtube and shaved down the OD on the table saw so it would slip snugly into the bearing's ID. I then heated the nut slightly with a torch and screwed it onto the pipe to cut the threads. I didn't heat the nut on the last one I made - it's not necessary but makes cutting the threads go a little quicker.
The nut is a 3/4" ID.
I used a piece of 1/2" sprinkler pipe (the wall thickness seems a little thicker than regular PVC) for the downtube and shaved down the OD on the table saw so it would slip snugly into the bearing's ID. I then heated the nut slightly with a torch and screwed it onto the pipe to cut the threads. I didn't heat the nut on the last one I made - it's not necessary but makes cutting the threads go a little quicker.
dngspot
Premium Member
I may be missing something. I understand that the down tube is held in place by the ID of the bearing, what holds the OD of the bearing?
I have ordered the bearings. What I may do is find or make a tube and glue it to the box over the down tube hole. Then fit the bearing in that to keep it centered with the down tube hole. Then the bearing will do the whole support and not have drag from the bushing or the box. Does this make sence?
I have ordered the bearings. What I may do is find or make a tube and glue it to the box over the down tube hole. Then fit the bearing in that to keep it centered with the down tube hole. Then the bearing will do the whole support and not have drag from the bushing or the box. Does this make sence?
"Umm fish?"
Premium Member
Thanks, Mike. Next time I see the electrician I'll ask him how to wire it. Barring that, I'll take the motor in with me to McGuckin's when I go in to get supplies and they'll know. But, thanks for the reminder that I need to ask someone about it.
miwoodar
Likey the bikey
I initially thought it would be necessary to bolt the bearing down or make a frame for it. Rather, the outer ring is resting on top of the larger nylon washer. I did it temporarily as I tested the arm lengths and it worked so well I decided to keep it. The inner nylon ring is essentially pointless (it's thinner than the outer ring) other than to help keep out splashes and/or salt creep. One of my local Ace Hardwares has proven to be a great resource as of late. Their selection is awesome - they had all these washers (minor dremeling) in stock.
Andy - I forgot how resourceful you are.
Your build is looking great BTW.
Andy - I forgot how resourceful you are.
Your build is looking great BTW.
dngspot
Premium Member
I gave it my best shot at video; it is grainy and just looks bad. One thing you will get some idea of how they move. Here is the link.
David
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/dngspot/?action=view¤t=DSCF0001.flv
David
http://s275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/dngspot/?action=view¤t=DSCF0001.flv
dngspot
Premium Member
For the last couple of days I have been having trouble with the left Swirl. I keep breaking the ring around the down tube. The problem was the pumps are putting allot of force on the down tube which is causing down tube to press on the sides of the bushings, the parts that are glued to the box. This causes a bind at the weakest point, the top or bottom of the stroke. I did give some thought to this when I was building the units and put food grade grease inside those bushings and the down tube.
The fix, remove the ring and wipe that worthless grease off and use bearing grade lithium grease. They are running smoother and working less. I must have broken 3 of those stinking little rings. I am getting real good at making them too.
I have beefed up the ring also, they do not look as cool but, you can bet that it is not going to break anymore. I have to say, those little microwave turn table motors have a bunch of torque for as little as they are.
The fix, remove the ring and wipe that worthless grease off and use bearing grade lithium grease. They are running smoother and working less. I must have broken 3 of those stinking little rings. I am getting real good at making them too.
I have beefed up the ring also, they do not look as cool but, you can bet that it is not going to break anymore. I have to say, those little microwave turn table motors have a bunch of torque for as little as they are.
customcolor
New member
just remember they may be rated to turn a 20lb turky for over an hour or so.
"Umm fish?"
Premium Member
McGuckin's guy: "It'll be fine on household current."
Motor: "Chug, chug, puff."
I guess that's why I bought three of them. I'll get with the electrician this time.
Motor: "Chug, chug, puff."
I guess that's why I bought three of them. I'll get with the electrician this time.
Similar threads
