DIY Swirler Stein

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13736326#post13736326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miwoodar
How about mounting them via the method Hmott used on page one or two?

I found it.. Thanks! My box doesn't have the 2 down mounts but it wont be hard to add acrylic and a plastic bolt! Thanks again!
 
I think he heated the tabs to bend them down. Maybe a heat gun would work? I look forward to seeing your results!

I want to play with larger pumps/props at some point. Thanks for the tip Pito!
 
My K4's are putting out roughly the same as my AC70 mods. I tested the AC’s and got a little over 3000 gph. I have a friend that uses the Maxi mods and her MJ1200 does put out a lot of flow but, I think the K4 does better.

The best I could do was 90 degrees, anything over that I had a problem with the down tube arm going over center; things tend to break when that happens.
If I were to rotate the motor a bit and change the arms some I might be able to rotate them more. Maybe the frag tanks might be candidates for that.
 
quick question on the power supply for these motors ... can you just take the 14 gauge wire and add a plug to a normal house plug and power it that way?? or, do you have to use a transformer of some fashion. based on the original pictures, it looks like you went straight to the motor - thanks.
 
Yes - you can go straight to the motor as long as you purchase the right one. The motors shown on page one will be fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13737124#post13737124 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dngspot
My K4's are putting out roughly the same as my AC70 mods. I tested the AC’s and got a little over 3000 gph. I have a friend that uses the Maxi mods and her MJ1200 does put out a lot of flow but, I think the K4 does better.

The best I could do was 90 degrees, anything over that I had a problem with the down tube arm going over center; things tend to break when that happens.
If I were to rotate the motor a bit and change the arms some I might be able to rotate them more. Maybe the frag tanks might be candidates for that.

I feel like I'm going to run into a problem with getting them to do 90. What determines that it goes 90? Is it the rc car tie rod length or the DIY mounting brackets of the Tie rod? And if so how big do they have to be to get a 90 angle. Thanks ahead of time.

Adam
 
The ratio of the arm lengths determines the rotation angle. The tie rod just connects the arms.

What I did on my first one...make the arms about the same length and drill a series of holes so you can try different effective arm lengths. After you're done, if you want to, dremel off any excess. Here's how mine ended up:

Leverarms.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13739958#post13739958 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miwoodar
The ratio of the arm lengths determines the rotation angle. The tie rod just connects the arms.

What I did on my first one...make the arms about the same length and drill a series of holes so you can try different effective arm lengths. After you're done, if you want to, dremel off any excess. Here's how mine ended up:

Leverarms.jpg

So you just drilled holes in the arm that held onto the down pipe? Did you also drill a few holes in the other arm to? Or does it not matter as long as there a few holes in one? Thanks
 
I shaved down the white arm afterwards. You can see one of the 'practice' holes on the right side of the tie rod though.

Leverarms2.jpg
 
This pic gives an idea of the length of the other arm. This arm was used on a different SS but the length is close to the one shown in the prior pic. Whether or not you go with the nut or the bushing method, the arm length from the center of the down tube to the hole in which the tie rod pin is inserted is the distance to pay attention to.

CIMG3023.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13693388#post13693388 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by miwoodar

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CIMG3025.jpg

in this picture it shows a large cut out hole in the box, what is that hole for?? also, where did you get the plastic washers and can you explain what parts connect to the down tube on the underside of the box?? Thanks.
 
The hole is where the downtube went. The nylon washers came from my local Ace Hardware. The washer that you see on the downtube in the photo below is the same washer that you see on the underside of the box in the earlier series of construction photos. The inner diameter of the washer is 3/4"...the same diameter of the shaved down portion of the tube. I wish I had taken a better pic but below the washer the tube is ~1" in outer diameter. Above the washer is ~3/4" in outer diamter. The last inch or so (the top end of the tube) is a touch less than 3/4" because that is where I threaded on the nut.

Maybe this will help:
CIMG3025-1.jpg
 
okay, what about the larger hole, is that for the down tube, and if so, why is it so large ... sorry if this is obvious and i am just missing it!
 
Oh, I missed that part. Yes, it is slightly oversized and no, it does not need to be. This box is over two years old. The bushing method that I used before wore the hole a little bigger over time. It would have been fine to continue running it with the bushing but I switched to the bearing because I needed to rebuild them anyways to get them to go through my eurobrace on the new tank.
 
okay, so, to make sure i am getting this ..

on your down tube, working from the maxijet up ... you have the 1/2" sprinkler tube that has been cut down 3/4" in diameter - the first washer is glued at that point, it then slides into your box for another nylon washer, mower bushing, screwed on 3/4" nut and then your acrylic arm ... is that about right?? Thanks.
 
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