I'll be using what I call PVC pipe clamps that can be attatched anywhere really and then the pipe is pressed into them and it snaps onto the pipe more or less. Best part you can rotate the PVC after its clamped in but there is friction to prevent it from flopping around. I figure a total of 4 would be perfect. It would also alow fairly quick removal of the box all together if needed. My light setup has a similar hinge
DIY Swirler Stein
- Thread starter miwoodar
- Start date
dngspot
Premium Member
It has been December since I installed the last upgrade to my Swirlers. The bearing is the best thing since sliced bread. I have had no problem with these things and they have been running 24/7. The wife thinks it is the coolest thing that I have built for the display. Corals and fish love the random flow. Wish I would have done this sooner.
Say I am having a really hard time both with center drilling out the props that are ever so slightly undersized and also the impeller assembly any suggestions on how to go about it. I do have a drill press. I really don't want to destroy any more stuff.
I plan on running mine in the day only. And the MJ and the Swirlstien will be running the same circut. I will likely not wire common in the box but rather a split of the timer. Oh and I do plan on installing a on off button. Just in case.
I plan on running mine in the day only. And the MJ and the Swirlstien will be running the same circut. I will likely not wire common in the box but rather a split of the timer. Oh and I do plan on installing a on off button. Just in case.
Yes I tried that. Trying to hold the bugger square proved a real challenge as I stepped through the bits. Also I found some very interesting 3 blade Props I'll post pitches of soon. I've went to 2" Couplings just to make sure I don't choke the thing. I'll post all of this tonight.
DeathWish302
Clown Hoarder
EBAY Motor
Search '6004 ZZ Z 2Z Ball Bearing Free Ship 20mm Shielded' for a bearing on Ebay for less than $4. I'm using this one with no problems.
DW302
Last edited:
ok. Cool thanks a lot.
Still wondering where you get the tie rod and the pieces of plastic that holds that down tube.
Sorry, I am not too good at visualizing. If someone can do a youtube video, that would help out a lot, especially for someone who can't follow instructions too well.
Still wondering where you get the tie rod and the pieces of plastic that holds that down tube.
Sorry, I am not too good at visualizing. If someone can do a youtube video, that would help out a lot, especially for someone who can't follow instructions too well.
dngspot
Premium Member
The down tube is pressed into the I.D. of the bearing. The bearing is held in place by two screws that go through the bottom of the box. A fabricated piece is held in place by the screws, this piece holds the bearing in place.
The piece that is attached to the tie rod and is also attached to the down tube is also fabricated and is pressed onto the down tube.
There is one more fabricated piece and that is the arm on the motor. The tie rod was found at a RC Airplane shop. It is a 4-40 tie rod. To make them I used these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD610&P=7 and http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV03&P=7
To make all of the fabricated pieces I use a dremel tool. For the dremel tool I use two attachments, one is a sanding disk, the other is a round gouging tool.
I use the gouging tool to cut the cross on one end for the motor shaft.
The rest of the tools are a drill and hole saw. I also use a miter saw to cut the down tube.
With the bearing I used, I had to cut down the tube O.D. to accept the bearing I.D. I did this with a lathe but I did the test with the sanding drum and slowly trimmed off material until the bearing would fit. It does not look as neat as the lathe work but, it does work and really is not visible anyway.
The bearing can be found here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/6203-2RS-3-4-LA...h=item250305495785&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262
The piece that is attached to the tie rod and is also attached to the down tube is also fabricated and is pressed onto the down tube.
There is one more fabricated piece and that is the arm on the motor. The tie rod was found at a RC Airplane shop. It is a 4-40 tie rod. To make them I used these http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD610&P=7 and http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFV03&P=7
To make all of the fabricated pieces I use a dremel tool. For the dremel tool I use two attachments, one is a sanding disk, the other is a round gouging tool.
I use the gouging tool to cut the cross on one end for the motor shaft.
The rest of the tools are a drill and hole saw. I also use a miter saw to cut the down tube.
With the bearing I used, I had to cut down the tube O.D. to accept the bearing I.D. I did this with a lathe but I did the test with the sanding drum and slowly trimmed off material until the bearing would fit. It does not look as neat as the lathe work but, it does work and really is not visible anyway.
The bearing can be found here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/6203-2RS-3-4-LA...h=item250305495785&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262
chrismunn
New member
i did mine totally different from everybody else because i had to fit mine into a tiny little all-in-one tank. instead of using the project box, i had to make a custom housing using 1/8" clear acrylic sheet. i got it from regal plastic for like $13.oo for 4- 12"x12" sheets. my down tube was made using 3/8" clear acrylic rod instead of a pvc pipe. it was $6.oo for 6'. im unable to pass the electrical cord through the down tube since its solid core. i also had to mill down the o.d. of my down tube to fit the i.d. of the bearing. since i used a smaller down tube i was able to use a smaller bearing. i used a bearing out of my skateboard, you can find them at any skate shop. they're about $10.oo for a pack of 8 bearings.
i used the same microwave turntable motor from e-bay, and the same tie rods from tower hobbies.
somewhere in this video you can see it in action...
i used the same microwave turntable motor from e-bay, and the same tie rods from tower hobbies.
somewhere in this video you can see it in action...
<a href="http://s374.photobucket.co...h017.jpg" border="0" alt="Box Side view"></a>
<a href="http://s374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/?action=view¤t=fish026.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/fish026.jpg" border="0" alt="Side View Complete (missing Switches)"></a>
<a href="http://s374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/?action=view¤t=fish027.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/fish027.jpg" border="0" alt="front view the centering cap really turned out nice"></a>
I'll get some video together tomorrow and I did install a switch for the power head and the motor. That is just really sweet.
Dan
<a href="http://s374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/?action=view¤t=fish026.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/fish026.jpg" border="0" alt="Side View Complete (missing Switches)"></a>
<a href="http://s374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/?action=view¤t=fish027.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i374.photobucket.com/albums/oo187/daddavis1/fish027.jpg" border="0" alt="front view the centering cap really turned out nice"></a>
I'll get some video together tomorrow and I did install a switch for the power head and the motor. That is just really sweet.
Dan
2" Coupling and 1.5 > 2" Flush Bushing. I did use some 2" PVC thin wall to hold the centering bracket in place. So far that is working really well with just a friction fit. I did have to use 3/4" PVC sleeve over the 1/2" PVC Extending throught the bearing assembly. I did have to glue that also there was not enough friction to hold.
dngspot
Premium Member
OMG, that is sweet! I guess I am not finished, I must have those.<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14661207#post14661207 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by chrismunn
i did mine totally different from everybody else because i had to fit mine into a tiny little all-in-one tank. instead of using the project box, i had to make a custom housing using 1/8" clear acrylic sheet. i got it from regal plastic for like $13.oo for 4- 12"x12" sheets. my down tube was made using 3/8" clear acrylic rod instead of a pvc pipe. it was $6.oo for 6'. im unable to pass the electrical cord through the down tube since its solid core. i also had to mill down the o.d. of my down tube to fit the i.d. of the bearing. since i used a smaller down tube i was able to use a smaller bearing. i used a bearing out of my skateboard, you can find them at any skate shop. they're about $10.oo for a pack of 8 bearings.
i used the same microwave turntable motor from e-bay, and the same tie rods from tower hobbies.
somewhere in this video you can see it in action...
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