DIY Wavebox Tutorial from start to finish!
- Thread starter xtm
- Start date
Medicine Man
Premium Member
Well, I had the same problem as bigt. It had a very small range of adjustment and then after being turned on for about 10 minutes it stopped working all together. So I gave up and bought the controller from tunze. Works perfect now. I guess soldering is a particular type of surgery that I cannot perform. I had fun doing the project though.
brownpatch
New member
I have built a controller as described and when i plug it in the pump turns off and i get nothing, anyone had the same and know what's up, is one of the components shot or have i done something totally wrong? I guess a ohmeter might be a good start though lol. If i get this cracked i might build a few and see if anyone is intrested in them, found the build and electronics simple just the matter of getting the the thing working now, must be something stupid or simple. Any help appreciated but if i get it cracked i'll keep you all informed. cheers guys for this. :rollface:
Harry_Fish
In Memoriam
I stoped using components from radio shack
long ago as I had way to many fail.
They are my Last resort.
long ago as I had way to many fail.
They are my Last resort.
CharAznable
New member
Does anyone know the polarity direction to use for the electrolytic capacitor? Since it is polarized there is a + and a - and they need to go in a specific direction.
Last edited:
james3370
Premium Member
i think you mean Cellular Shack.....they have become WORTHLESS for electronic stuff anymore. it's sad really cause they use to be the bomb-diggity, but i went in the other nite looking for a "molex plug w/ wire tail" & they bonehead there didn't even know what a molex plug was
digikey.com it is for me from now on
FYI:
here is a modified one with a pause switch for feeding time (adjustable timing).
http://www.njreefers.org/joomla/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=13714.0
thx
here is a modified one with a pause switch for feeding time (adjustable timing).
http://www.njreefers.org/joomla/index.php?option=com_smf&Itemid=26&topic=13714.0
thx
five.five-six
Well-known member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13902806#post13902806 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by james3370
i think you mean Cellular Shack.....they have become WORTHLESS for electronic stuff anymore. it's sad really cause they use to be the bomb-diggity, but i went in the other nite looking for a "molex plug w/ wire tail" & they bonehead there didn't even know what a molex plug was
digikey.com it is for me from now on
ORVAC OR MARVAC
just for fun, here is my retail wave box in action
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Y1w2MPCs4U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJ7iXiMNTXA
Mike778922
New member
What are the supply voltages suppose to be coming from the tunze? I used a ohm meter to track what color wire goes with which pin and have checked several times, but still end up with the two pins that I am using (excluding ground) with a 0 voltage. The other two that I am not using have a voltage around 8.
xtm
Active member
ERRATA:
On page one, I wrote:
Some folks are getting confused because the diagram shows (C2) as 10 uF. (my bad) The correct answer is 10uF.
However, the difference between 1 and 10 microfarads are negligible enough that either values could be used without adverse effect in performance. However, an increase in capacitance of C2 (higher uF values) results in longer discharge time "buffer" because it controls the +vcc of pins 2 and 6, which are Trigger Input and threshold Input, respectively.
On page one, I wrote:
Some folks are getting confused because the diagram shows (C2) as 10 uF. (my bad) The correct answer is 10uF.
However, the difference between 1 and 10 microfarads are negligible enough that either values could be used without adverse effect in performance. However, an increase in capacitance of C2 (higher uF values) results in longer discharge time "buffer" because it controls the +vcc of pins 2 and 6, which are Trigger Input and threshold Input, respectively.
zachtos
Active member
Neat thread, I looked into building my own box a year back. Very easy to do, but I found it was not cost effective. It only saved maybe $50-$100 overall. I just bought a used one and that basically covered the DIY cost. BUT, in the future, I would like to have 2 or 3 of these on a very large reef external to the tank, so this may come in handy later.
I have the retail box, is there a reason we can't just use the 6200 transformer to get a stronger flow? my wavebox will not make over 3/4" wave in my 7' - 240G reef.
Also, I assume everyone is paying $500 for there 6200 pumps and you could just get a pre-built box for just $75 more w/ warranty? I'm not seeing the savings here w/ Tunze's awesome warranties... Unless you people are able to find the DC pumps for a good price somewhere?
Is anyone doing this with the new tunze stream 2's?
I have the retail box, is there a reason we can't just use the 6200 transformer to get a stronger flow? my wavebox will not make over 3/4" wave in my 7' - 240G reef.
Also, I assume everyone is paying $500 for there 6200 pumps and you could just get a pre-built box for just $75 more w/ warranty? I'm not seeing the savings here w/ Tunze's awesome warranties... Unless you people are able to find the DC pumps for a good price somewhere?
Is anyone doing this with the new tunze stream 2's?
coralfragger101
Gone Postal
LONG thread to read through to see if any "changes" were implemented to the original plans.
Wondering if someone knows this without me reading the entire thread, so the basic question is:
Is the instructions (diagram) on the first page of the thread the one that everyone is still building from or has it now been modified?
Background: I have a Tunze 6100 pump w/single controller on a 65 gal tank. I want to make a wave. Doesn't have to be anything earth shattering so I will only make the box if absolutely necessary. I've read enough of this thread to make me think this is doable without the box with my particular set up.
Is this correct?
And finally: I have never built anything electronically before. This project appears to be one that would fall into the "easy" category. Is this something that a newbie to electronics should try or should I have someone else do it? At the present time, I don't even know how to read a schematic. I would need someone to translate the schematic into laymen's English. Or is there like an online tutorial somewhere that could teach me to read and interprete the schematic?
Wondering if someone knows this without me reading the entire thread, so the basic question is:
Is the instructions (diagram) on the first page of the thread the one that everyone is still building from or has it now been modified?
Background: I have a Tunze 6100 pump w/single controller on a 65 gal tank. I want to make a wave. Doesn't have to be anything earth shattering so I will only make the box if absolutely necessary. I've read enough of this thread to make me think this is doable without the box with my particular set up.
Is this correct?
And finally: I have never built anything electronically before. This project appears to be one that would fall into the "easy" category. Is this something that a newbie to electronics should try or should I have someone else do it? At the present time, I don't even know how to read a schematic. I would need someone to translate the schematic into laymen's English. Or is there like an online tutorial somewhere that could teach me to read and interprete the schematic?
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