DIY Wavebox Tutorial from start to finish!

Im in the process of building the wavebox now and the original schematic is unchanged, but the one capacitor is mislabeled in the diagram. Also, there is an updated led diagram somewhere in the middle of the thread, but that just entails adding a resistor and led to the circuit in the original schematic. Can be done later. I would recommend building it on a proto board first and then soldering it after its working if you dont have a lot of experience.
 
If something is mislabeled - what is the correct labeling?

Thanks for the info. I just may decide to do this today. I'll definately build it on one of the boards first.
 
OK - Just got back from Radio Shack.

I came home with a couple of things slightly different but the guy told me that what he gave me will work.

Before I do this I would like someone that's a bit more knowledgeable than myself to tell me that the differences are OK.

Instead of the (R2) 20k resistor he gave me a 22k resistor.

Instead of the (C1) .47uf capacitor he gave me TWO .22uf capacitors and told me to run them in parallel (whatever that means).

He also didn't have the (P1) 500k pot. The package that he gave me says:

500k-ohm
Volume Control with Push Switch

The back of the package says:

For use with 16mm dimmer potentiometer with push switch.
37 detents
500k ohms
2 watts
20% tolerance

I didn't notice that it was a push switch until I got home. I bought another switch to use as an ON/OFF switch but would this work for the ON/OFF as well as the speed adjustment?
 
the push button shouldnt make a difference. I have one and tested it with an ohm meter, worked fine. Series is one right after the other, parallel is wired next to each other. If you picture it as plumbing instead, parallel would be like having a T on a water pipe so that the water flowed through both capacitors.
 
Now comes the hard part. Like I stated earlier, I have never done an electrical project before so I'm schematic illiterate.

I'm guessing here so don't laugh too hard if I'm not even close.

I'm guessing that I need to basically just solder the components to an electrical board and then solder the dots together to create the correct "paths" to and from the components?

Am I close?
 
The push button will not work unless you wire the on/off part in line with the power for the circuit.

I use wire to connect the components to each other and to connect components to the timer chip pins. The boards I use have copper on the back that connect strips of holes together, but I have seen connections made the way you are talking about doing it, but may be difficult without prior soldering experience.

The easiest thing would be to get a protoboard. That is a board that you can just push the components and wires into and has connections under the holes that run horizentally. Radioshack sells them, and then after it works solder it. That way you dont have to worry about whether or not your soldered connections are good. Just a suggestion though.
 
The radio shack I was at didn't have a protoboard. Maybe I'll try to find one elsewhere.

I also think I better find someone local that might give me hand on this. I'm looking at this schematic and it might as well have been written in Arabic. I don't even know where to start.

Thanks for trying to help me with it.
 
With this being my very first electrical project I must say, "It's looking pretty darn clean."

I haven't done the soldering yet though so there is still plenty of time for me to screw it up.

Tunze-Controller.jpg
 
HELP!

I'm almost done with this thing but I have a few questions.

1) Could someone change the schematic from page 1 and repost it WITH where an ON/OFF switch would go.

I'm guessing that Pin #5 listed as "Positive" is the power so I would just connect it the switch into that?

( FORGET ABOUT QUESTION #1 - I JUST READ WHERE SOMEONE ELSE DID IT WITH PIN 5 SO I GUESS I WAS RIGHT )


2) Where do you connect an LED light to light up when the pump is ON?

( SAME PERSON POSTED WHERE HE THOUGHT THE LED WOULD GO BUT I HAVEN'T FOUND A CONFIRMATION OF THAT YET - STILL NEED THIS ANSWERED )

3) I read that you need a resistor for the LED light (which I do have - 470 ohm resistor) but I just noticed the package for the LED light I got says, "with integrated resistor". Does this mean that I don't need the 470 ohm resistor?
 
Forgot - one more question.

The 500k pot has three terminals. Which two do you use?
Somehow this must be connected differently than most of the other items because it has the triangle shown there.

What is the triangle?
 
Last edited:
Not sure about the led resistance thing, but there is a schematic somewhere in the thread with the led on it. I think it connects between pins 1 and 2, but you'll have to look for the diagram. It very brightly colored, so it stands out.

As for the potentiometer if it it the same one as the one I got from radio shack, there are a total of 5 pins. The two on the front are the ones you want for the potentiometer. I would take a look at radioshack.com and do a search for the potentiometer. They have a owner's manual that has diagrams of what pins are what. That way you can be sure.
 
Yes it does have 5 pins. I assumed the two coming out the front were for the power (working the switch part of the item).

Then it has 3 pins coming off the back end.

So the two in the front are not the power eh?
 
My first attempt was an absolute failure.

I'm going to take it completely apart and start over again.
I tried to take the shortest route to everything which ended up in a big crisscrossed mess that is next to impossible to even follow.

Hey - what do you expect? It was my first project.

Lesson Learned: Use the space of the board AND jumpers to keep things separated, neat and easy to follow.

I'm confident that my next attempt will be much better.

I wasn't going to post a photo of it but what the heck. Should be good for a laugh or two and a great example of how NOT TO do electrical projects.

Here she is:

DIY-Controller.jpg


At least it didn't blow up on me.

The switch did not turn it on and off.
Turning the knob did nothing at all.
The pump stayed on at the same level no matter what I did.
 
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