Do all gobies require a fuge for growing pods?
- Thread starter rykwong
- Start date
NanoLurker
Member
green clown gobies don't need pods - mine eat frozen mysis, pellet, bbs, cyclopeeze, etc. pretty much anything i've ever given them they'll eat.
NanoLurker
Member
i'm going to pretend i didn't read that.
NicoleC
New member
I'm not.
If you are talking about sand-sifting gobies, in general they are very prone to bacterial infections from wounds that are inflicted by their capture. (They are literally sucked out of their dens.) Additionally, they are naturally shy fish who physiologically are not built to take prepared foods since their instinct tells them food is INSIDE the sand, not floating through the water. Scroll through RC to see how many times people say, "I just got this ____ goby and I haven't seen him in weeks" or "he wasted away" or similar complaints.
Placing them in QT for 4-6 weeks gives them the opportunity to heal, the opportunity for you to treat them for any infections they might have, prophylactically deworm them, for them to learn to recognized and take to prepared foods, and to learn not to be afraid of YOU.
A QT setup is cheap. Any ugly thing tank that holds water, a cheap HOB filter and a heater will do it.
If you are talking about sand-sifting gobies, in general they are very prone to bacterial infections from wounds that are inflicted by their capture. (They are literally sucked out of their dens.) Additionally, they are naturally shy fish who physiologically are not built to take prepared foods since their instinct tells them food is INSIDE the sand, not floating through the water. Scroll through RC to see how many times people say, "I just got this ____ goby and I haven't seen him in weeks" or "he wasted away" or similar complaints.
Placing them in QT for 4-6 weeks gives them the opportunity to heal, the opportunity for you to treat them for any infections they might have, prophylactically deworm them, for them to learn to recognized and take to prepared foods, and to learn not to be afraid of YOU.
A QT setup is cheap. Any ugly thing tank that holds water, a cheap HOB filter and a heater will do it.
Hey NicoleC, if you don't mind me asking instead of waiting till later tonight before I can do a search, what exactly do you do when you QT a fish. Other than getting a 10gal, a heater, and any HOB filter, what other chemicals do I need? I want to setup a QT tank, but what to do it right. Do you need to do hypo? Do you want to add copper? If you do the hypo then would you need a chemical to bring up the pH? How do you prevent ammonia jumps without LR and LS? I can start a new thread so EVERYONE can do it right. Thanks!
Rich
Rich
NicoleC
New member
Typically, a deworming and anti-parasite treatment should be done for all fish. Jungle has a new anti-parasite food that is a triple-med that covers almost all parasites and should make treating fish easy, providing they will eat. Unless the fish is in distress from parasites, parasite treatment can wait, but almost ALL fish have parasites.
Other that that, only treat the fish for any specific diseases they may have. For ich, hypo is the treatment of choice. I do not usually prophylactically treat with hypo, but it's safe to do so.
For infections, an anti-biotic, and so forth. Many fish will not need anything except the anti-parasite treatment. It is brook season; one should have Formalin ($3-4) on hand because it requires a fast response; most everything else can wait until you buy, beg or borrow meds the next day. Many meds need extra aeration. Having an airpump around is a good thing, but they are cheap and readily available if needed.
Plus you live pretty close to someone in Orange that has lots of meds and gear.
Amquel+ Plus can be used to hold ammonia down if you need it. Any available buffer can be used keep pH up if you need it. The QT should be bare bottom with PVC tubes and/or non-porous aquarium decorations; I also like to use plastic plants since the fish really like it.
Tank parameters should be kept on the cool side if possible (76-78F instead of 78-80F) but otherwise the same as any marine fish tank.
Other that that, only treat the fish for any specific diseases they may have. For ich, hypo is the treatment of choice. I do not usually prophylactically treat with hypo, but it's safe to do so.
For infections, an anti-biotic, and so forth. Many fish will not need anything except the anti-parasite treatment. It is brook season; one should have Formalin ($3-4) on hand because it requires a fast response; most everything else can wait until you buy, beg or borrow meds the next day. Many meds need extra aeration. Having an airpump around is a good thing, but they are cheap and readily available if needed.
Plus you live pretty close to someone in Orange that has lots of meds and gear.
Amquel+ Plus can be used to hold ammonia down if you need it. Any available buffer can be used keep pH up if you need it. The QT should be bare bottom with PVC tubes and/or non-porous aquarium decorations; I also like to use plastic plants since the fish really like it.
Tank parameters should be kept on the cool side if possible (76-78F instead of 78-80F) but otherwise the same as any marine fish tank.
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