Do all of you quartine first

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6800415#post6800415 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by arozz7
A friend of mine was not QT'ing his frags and now he has Red Bugs in his display. He is now in the process of getting rid of them. He said he will be QT'ing frags from now on.

Dip would have taken care of that.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6797687#post6797687 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mc-cro
Do you have unprotected sex with prostitutes?

lol, well as a matter of fact....... j/k
 
Seems like there is no real answer, but I think if you quartine you need to do what I am doing. I have a 20 gallon sum/refrigum, under my 30 with all the filtering media my 100 gallon has. It will be stable because of that. I will also be putting in a mh light. I think if your gona have a qt tank for coral, you really need to go all the way.
 
reefers with more experiance may be able to get by with less, but I only have 1 year experiance, so I am not takeing an chances.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6798776#post6798776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fmellish
Interesting analogy. You must have done well on your SAT.

As a matter of fact, yes I did do very well on my SAT


a QT tank doesn't have to be anything elaborate. I have a 5g tank, with a heater, a small hang on the back filter filled with carbon and run 2 small compacts over it. I got like $30 in the whole thing(less than most frags) I fill it with water from the display tank and do a 50% water change every week with tank water. place the corals about halfway up on eggcrate. I have never had a coral die in QT.

I have found 2 or 3 nudibranchs, found a small snail, I think it was a pyramid snail, but not sure. also have found micro-brittles and bristleworms
 
So you quarantine with the same low wattage light regardless whether it SPS, LPS, or softie? I have heard that QT should be at least 30 days. How does the coral manage with such low lighting for that period of time?
J
 
I usually put them in QT for about 2-3wks. some may say longer, to make sure that any eggs have had time to either hatch or die.

I inspect them several times daily with a magnifing glass to look for critters and such.

also, I usually put a small powerhead in the tank as well for sps.
 
the wattage of lights is somewhat relative.

I use 2x13w pc's over a 5g tank. they are about an inch or two from the top of the water, and the frag is only 4-5 inches below the surface. It works, I would use larger pc's, but its what I had laying around. (it is is also a little brighter becuase the counter top it sits on is white- reflects a small amount back up.
 
I've never quarantined anything -- but I buy always from the same LFS who always buys from the same wholesaler. Never had a problem. I think it may be a little different in AK, our LFSs only buy from premium (as in, high dollar) wholesalers since anything marginal won't make the trip anyway.

I also never even seen an RO/DI system, much less used one. :)
 
ro/di less in alaska, ok maybe there's not so many chemicals in your water. I would still be nervous about not QT. there are even parasites and stuff in the ocean that can wreak havoc on your system.

but, I see you like no limit poker....you like the risk...lol
 
Never quarantined...never dipped... in over 20 years of saltwater/reef tanks. I'm sure I could have saved some specimens over the years if i did though. It's all about how far you want to go, and how much time you have.
 
Everyone had some good posts. I am almost scared to try to qt under my low light 2*13 sump light. I am thinking about just being pacient and buying a 150 HQI for my 29 standard that has a sump. This may be over kill, but I might as well do it right. I have only rased beginer coral, so I am no expert. Seems like the way to go for me sense I already have the sump/refrigum and the 29.
 

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