Do I have the right stuff for a reef system. First time trying a reef setup. Please h

[LukeK]

I've had many fish only set-ups (saltwater of course), I've been very interested in trying a reef tank for a while now. Figure I would give it a shot with equipment I have and want to know if I'm setting up for failure.

Tank - 125 gallon 72x18x24

Canister filter - Fluval fx6 rated up to 400 gallons

Protein skimmer - Instant Ocean seaclone protein
skimmer. rated for 150 gallons.

Lighting - 2 Current USA Marine Orbit led pros with Bluetooth 72 inch

Heater - 2 Hygger Titanium 500watt heaters

UV light - Coralife turbo twist 6x 18w. rated up to 250 gallons.

So is that ok for a reef setup. How should set up my filter? Same as I would for a fish only? I keep reading how a sump is better but they are to expensive. I have a spare 20 gallon tank that I might eventually turn into a sump but I need to do more research. I know nothing about them. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you

 

[djryan2000]

Do I have the right stuff for a reef system. First time trying a reef setup. Please h

If you use the canister you'll have to maintain it properly. If you don't regularly clean it out itl accumulate detritus and cause a nitrate and phosphate factory.



I recommend going to Petco and buying a 40 or 55 and turning that into a sump - a 20 is pretty small.

Here are some resources to get you started on sumps -


https://www.melevsreef.com/articles/what-is-a-sump


https://youtu.be/2EMzkvquNkQ


https://youtu.be/S5vONjvJzTQ


https://youtu.be/Nz4ZdQDfN0k


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cvrle1]

For tank that big, I wouldnt use canister filter. It could be done, but it would be much better to get a sump instead. You can make one yourself with 40G breeder and some glass or silicone for <$100 easily. You could use 20G as well, so this would be even cheaper. Scrap glass is dirt cheap, sometimes even free, so you would just need to get a cutter and silicone, so you are looking at like $20 to put baffles in.

Skimmer, while rated for 150G, is not really suited for tank that size. It's HOB skimmer, good for smaller tanks. I would replace with proper skimmer.

Lights, those Current USA fixtures use 0.5W LEDs, which are good for really shallow tanks and low light corals. Some softies and lps may survive with them, but they may not grow and live. Basic Chinese black box like Viparspectra 165W would be much better. 2 of those is all you need, and you are looking at <$250 for both.

Can say anything about UV, as I know absolutely nothing about them.

 

[Sk8r]

Agree: trade that fluval in on a bare 30 gallon tank and put it under your stand: it will hold your return pump, heater, skimmer, and spare rock. Yes, it's good to have a professionally done sump with baffles, but in a pinch you can use a Rubbermaid tub. If you look up one of our sponsors that sells equipment you can see what a proper 30 gallon sump looks like, what can be done with it, and what the baffles do.

As for UV, I don't. It has to be matched to flow rate, and generally I've reefed for decades without one: the ones I tried in the koi pond were so bad they caught fire, so UV and I are not friends.Your best bet is just a set of good Salifert tests for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium, and good water quality. I'd go with an E-Shopps skimmer, good value for the buck. Skimmer, heater (get an Eheim; cheap heaters are dangerous to your house) pump; sump; lights and test kits; that's about the setup. You'll also need aragonite sand (CaribSea is a good brand) and live rock or at least one live rock and the rest 'conditioned rock,' ideally limestone.

 

[LukeK]

I figured a sump would be better. Just was going to try with canister. But that's why I signed up to RC. I'm going to do more research and build a 55 gallon sump. Thank you for the info.

 

[cvrle1]

Only thing i will add to Sk8r's post is this:

While not mandatory, I would strongly suggest that you get a heater controller as well. Something as simple as Inkbird ITC-306T is good enough. All heaters fail, even Eheim, and having a controller can prevent a disaster.

Also, sand can be used but not mandatory. A lot of tanks out there have bare bottom. It comes down to preference and what fish you would like to keep. There are pros and cons with both, so read up on this and decide which way to go.

 

[djryan2000]

Only thing i will add to Sk8r's post is this:

While not mandatory, I would strongly suggest that you get a heater controller as well. Something as simple as Inkbird ITC-306T is good enough. All heaters fail, even Eheim, and having a controller can prevent a disaster.

Also, sand can be used but not mandatory. A lot of tanks out there have bare bottom. It comes down to preference and what fish you would like to keep. There are pros and cons with both, so read up on this and decide which way to go.

+1 to the heater controller. Got one six months ago and I'm fairly certain it already saved my tank once.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LukeK]

I have 2 inches live sand and about 70lbs plus of live rock

 

[LukeK]

I have 2 heaters in tank 1 as a back up both have thermostat. Also have old-school thermometer for accurate temp.

 

[Sk8r]

A canister can leak. Our fw tank's did. We're now using hob filters.

 

[Michael Hoaster]

Don't toss out your canister filter, even if you do get a sump. Canisters are great for customized media use, like carbon or GFO. It'll save you money on buying separate reactors. You can even use it as a quasi-calcium reactor, if you run CO2 through it, like the fresh water plant guys. I do this for my marine planted tank, and it works great. I've got coralline algae and several calcium-hungry plants doing very well.