do I need chiller for seahorse tank?
- Thread starter corbett_n
- Start date
Burke
New member
Can you get the temp any lower? I don't use a heater at all. I also have a small fan that I use if my temp starts to climb. I use it to blow air down on the water and it will cool it, but I loose more water to evap that way.
I'd say if you can't get it down anymore, then you would need a chiller. Also, we invested in a couple window AC units. It only gets hot here in WA a couple months a year. That way we get to stay cool with the seahorses. Just a thought.
I'd say if you can't get it down anymore, then you would need a chiller. Also, we invested in a couple window AC units. It only gets hot here in WA a couple months a year. That way we get to stay cool with the seahorses. Just a thought.
King_Richard
New member
I'm really reconsidering the temps on these and I'll let ya know how it goes. My gf is got two erectus's coming in so we moved the dwarf seahorse out into a smaller tank. Currently we run the tank at 76 but do to a xenia who hasn't adjusted very well and snails who are being very inactive (I'm assuming all of this is temp related) I will be gradually increasing the temp. My goal is for somewhere between 78-80. My reasoning for this is because the originally erectus that we found gasping for air on the beach was in 80 degree water (Gulf of Mexico here in FL.) but the seahorse did pass away after a couple months of having her when my gf did a quarintine on her (go figure).
Anyways I'll let ya know how it goes if your interested, just message me so I don't forget. Also, the seahorse's we're getting are from florida which could be important since it's generally warmer water down here.
Anyways I'll let ya know how it goes if your interested, just message me so I don't forget. Also, the seahorse's we're getting are from florida which could be important since it's generally warmer water down here.
Burke
New member
The reason for the colder water is to reduce the chance of bacteria infections not because of where they are from. Everything can live in slightly colder water then where they are from. I have tons of snails, zoas, dendros, mushrooms, goby and a star fish in my seahorse tank and all have been fine with the cooler temp.
King_Richard
New member
If it's simply because of the bacteria infections (which I'm aware of) then a uv steralizer should keep it in check at 80 degrees.
I'll be aiming for 78.
From what I've seen from my tanks in Vegas that were at 80 were always active and this one seems to be slow mo. The snails could be adjusting still though since they've only been in there about 3 days. The xenia, well, I don't know. Not sure tried everything so I'm just hoping they'll die off some and do the miracle turn around.
I'll be aiming for 78.
From what I've seen from my tanks in Vegas that were at 80 were always active and this one seems to be slow mo. The snails could be adjusting still though since they've only been in there about 3 days. The xenia, well, I don't know. Not sure tried everything so I'm just hoping they'll die off some and do the miracle turn around.
ctenophors rule
New member
A uv sterilizer would only kill the vibrio in the water. anyvibrio growing on or in a seahorse , or on the environment which the seahorse is in would survive.
why doesn't a uv sterilizer kill all the nitrosomonas and nitrosphyrus bacteria in our sandbeds?
vegas? do you realy think that we should model anything on vegas life?:beer::celeb3::beer::celeb1:=:hmm4: (<-my idea of vegas) dont get me wrong i love vegas (even though im too young to enjoy it.)
seriously though, a uv sterilizer probably wont do anything as far as preventing a vibrio outbreak. oh and remember that vibrio only becomes toxic above 75 degrees.
also another problem associated with seahorses is gas bubble disease. one cause for this may be a disruption in the production of carbonic acid by carbonic anyhydrase. on a related note the co2 may also be created by bacteria. bacterial metabolic processes increases in higher temperatures which would equal more co2.
sorry if im confusing, its late here...
King_Richard
New member
ctenophors rule:
lol, I like your observation about Vegas.
I'm still new to seahorses and my gf is the one doing all the research I just setup the tank and keep it running and guide her on what we can do for corals and plants.
A uv sterilizer will only kill bacteria's free floating in the water good and bad. I'm only aware of ways to treat vibrio and the bubble problem, but haven't researched since we haven't ran in to it, so I'm sure you know more about it then I do.
If all seahorses to be kept go through quarantine before going into the tank, shouldn't this along w/a uv sterilizer keep them free of diseases @80F?
I just believe that most people see the care sheets on these and stick to those suggestions, however, has anyone tried different temp's? If someone has and had repeated problems then ok 80 is probally to high for them, but did they try adding a uv sterilizer. One outbreak doesn't necessarily mean that 80 is bad since it can happen at any temp we keep them at. Personally, I'd rather buy a uv since it's cheaper then a chiller.
Please feel free to dispute, it just helps me learn more about seahorses.
lol, I like your observation about Vegas.
I'm still new to seahorses and my gf is the one doing all the research I just setup the tank and keep it running and guide her on what we can do for corals and plants.
A uv sterilizer will only kill bacteria's free floating in the water good and bad. I'm only aware of ways to treat vibrio and the bubble problem, but haven't researched since we haven't ran in to it, so I'm sure you know more about it then I do.
If all seahorses to be kept go through quarantine before going into the tank, shouldn't this along w/a uv sterilizer keep them free of diseases @80F?
I just believe that most people see the care sheets on these and stick to those suggestions, however, has anyone tried different temp's? If someone has and had repeated problems then ok 80 is probally to high for them, but did they try adding a uv sterilizer. One outbreak doesn't necessarily mean that 80 is bad since it can happen at any temp we keep them at. Personally, I'd rather buy a uv since it's cheaper then a chiller.
Please feel free to dispute, it just helps me learn more about seahorses.
ctenophors rule
New member
thanks
not likely. I am not possitive maybe someone with more experience can add on. I dont see how one could remove vibrio from the seahorse/ environment with a QT.
these sheets are made for a reason, however if you are reading care sheets from stores that sell fish...expect wrong information. some sites are intentionaly misleading.
actualy vibrio only becomes toxic at temperatures above 75 degrees. and above 74 degrees bacteria reproduction rates increase exponentialy while before it was linear.
I am sure that it occured to many of the seasoned seahorse keepers to try a UV sterilizer. i feel very safe making this assumption.
seahorses aren't cheep but they are very rewarding.
please ask any and all questions that you have and cruise seahorse.org.
King_Richard
New member
I'm gonna have to research this vibrio now cuz I'm curious.
If your water got up to 80 though, is this the main thing you would worry about?
The sheets are a good guideline for starting out but there are always exceptions in this hobby. For example, I have seen numerous care sheets stating that wild seahorses will not eat frozen food. Not true, people have switched them and the one that we had was eating frozen food in two weeks of having her. I can also bet that someone out there is keeping seahorses right now at 80 degree's and it's not me lol. I'm still at 76 currently.
If your water got up to 80 though, is this the main thing you would worry about?
The sheets are a good guideline for starting out but there are always exceptions in this hobby. For example, I have seen numerous care sheets stating that wild seahorses will not eat frozen food. Not true, people have switched them and the one that we had was eating frozen food in two weeks of having her. I can also bet that someone out there is keeping seahorses right now at 80 degree's and it's not me lol. I'm still at 76 currently.
ctenophors rule
New member
their are some people who are successful keep seahorses (particularly reidi's from what i have read) in above normal temperatures, however most who attempt this are met with health problems. it can work but isn't advised by seasoned seahorse keepers.
King_Richard
New member
Thank you ctenophors rule.
I just don't like people getting shot down right away when they want to try something new.
I know it's not advised to keep them at higher temps but I like the approach of letting the person know that it is possible and that they just need to be prepared for what might happen at these higher temps like vibrio and also reidi's are known to be a better choice at those temps.
Out of all of this, atleast I know I've gotta research vibrio now.
I just don't like people getting shot down right away when they want to try something new.
I know it's not advised to keep them at higher temps but I like the approach of letting the person know that it is possible and that they just need to be prepared for what might happen at these higher temps like vibrio and also reidi's are known to be a better choice at those temps.
Out of all of this, atleast I know I've gotta research vibrio now.
namxas
Things With Stings R Us!
again, ocean water temp is different than closed-system water temp. think dilution of bacteria species.
this time of year, as temps rise, we see an HUGE influx of temp-induced vibriosis and other bacterial infections in the ER on a popular SH forum. the causes are pretty well understood, and it has been proven over time as well as with studies.
it's totally up to you how you run your setup, but if you're going to run it close to 80, do yourself a favor and stock up your SH med kit now instead of waiting for SH to present symptoms. that way you can jump on it right away. also, if your SH DO present bacterial symptoms, you'll want to drop the temp to 68* max to slow the progress of the infection.
to be honest, my electric bill would be much better off if i did away with the chillers on my SH setups, but i've lost SH due to temp-related bacterial infections, so i run them, and haven't lost a SH due to temperature issues since.
HTH
this time of year, as temps rise, we see an HUGE influx of temp-induced vibriosis and other bacterial infections in the ER on a popular SH forum. the causes are pretty well understood, and it has been proven over time as well as with studies.
it's totally up to you how you run your setup, but if you're going to run it close to 80, do yourself a favor and stock up your SH med kit now instead of waiting for SH to present symptoms. that way you can jump on it right away. also, if your SH DO present bacterial symptoms, you'll want to drop the temp to 68* max to slow the progress of the infection.
to be honest, my electric bill would be much better off if i did away with the chillers on my SH setups, but i've lost SH due to temp-related bacterial infections, so i run them, and haven't lost a SH due to temperature issues since.
HTH
mollymonticello
Member
I would never again try to keep seahorses without a chiller. Individual seahorses are typically asymptomatic carriers of Vibrio. When conditions are right for the bacteria, it grows. Vibrio grows poorly at temps below 68F, but temps above 74F make it more virulent. I keep all my seahorses between 68 and 72F. I've never had a problem with "tropical" livestock not surviving these temps (except SPS corals).
short piece on corals and Vibrio being temperature related:
http://reeftools.com/news/coral-and-seahorse-vibrio-infections-temperature-related/
short piece on corals and Vibrio being temperature related:
http://reeftools.com/news/coral-and-seahorse-vibrio-infections-temperature-related/
