Do I understand chemistry??? I NEED to pass it!!!

noj3333

New member
Well I've been doing really good with my reef tank, but last night I had a scare. I've been trying to buffer up my ph by using a buffer for Alkalinity, and this morning I had a HUGE snow storm in my tank. I'm not a religious water tester (well I wasn't, but I am now!!). Turns out my DKH was 22! So I freaked out and did a 30% water change on my tank, it's looking better and testing more normal, around 16 (I understand this is very high, but years ago this was considered acceptable, so it shouldn't be deadly at the very least).

So this brings me to my questions, I've read numerous articles, but for whatever reason things didn't sink in to my thick skull, so I want to check with the experts and see if my current understanding is correct, please be kind, I'm still new to this hobby!!!

Ok, well I understand the basics, nitrogen cycle, and how ammonia plays into it, simple fresh water stuff"¦

But do I understand reef chemistry???

The most basic stuff, you want a salinity of .025-.026"¦ simple, I got that.

Calcium "“ Corals build their skeletons with it, and you want it to test out at around 450. If I understand it correctly it works in opposition of Alkalinity (dkh???). So if your Ca is high, you Alkalinity will be driven lower? There's a balance that must be accomplished here. In order to keep the calcium at a good level you have to dose, and your only option is a calcium reactor, or supplement?

That brings me to Alkalinity, you want to have an Alkalinity of around 10 or so, to keep a happy reef tank, and to help keep your calcium in check. In order to raise dkh/ Alkalinity you have to use a buffer?

PH "“ You want a ph around 8.2"¦ you can raise ph with baking soda?

Mag "“ I don't have to worry about this, it's the only test I do that always comes in ok!!! Yay!

Phosphate "“ you want a reading of 0, or really close to it, if I used RODI water (that checks out as 0 TDS) then my phosphate is related to a feeding issue (too much food or organic break down). The best way to remedy Phosphate is to run GFO in a reactor.
 
salinity is suppose to be 1.025-1.026. not sure if it was typo in ur post.
cal needs to be 380-480 range and can ge done with cal reactor or dosing 2 part.
alk needs to be 7-11dkh range and can be done with cal reactor or 2 part dosing.
ph needs to be between 7.8-8.4 and baking soda will DECREASE ph temporarily. soda ash will increase ph temporarily but dont chase ph with chemicals. air out the area or install small fans around the sump or co2 scrubber.
mag is the most important in my opinion that is the most neglected. it acts as a referee betweem alk and cal. if its out of wack u cannot maintain cal and alk.
phos needs to be 0-0.03 range. tds 0 does not neccessorily mean phos 0. and yes GFO is best to remove phos and chaeto alge in fuge.
 
Calcium and alkalinity do best when balanced. Raising one too much can have effects on the other. Google a chart that shows a balanced level between the too. The whole lynch pin though is magnesium, which maintains this balance. As bnumair said, it's like a traffic cop between the two. Your PH will not remain constant either. Swings between 8 and 8.2 are common in my tank depending on the time of day. IMO, the tank is most vulnerable on the downswing of your PH or at night. This is simply based off of observation.
 
If you're not testing before adding a buffer or calcium, then I have to say that you truly don't understand reef chemistry.
 
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